Check VSC Light - need to replace transmission
08-13-17, 08:07 PM
#211
Before I do DIY's I look on youtube. This one was very informative in a general sense: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc
Good video but I would say the burned fluid part is not exactly accurate. The burned fluid is a sympton of a another failure. The trans is already failing **in most cases** and a fluid swap will not save it. There are exceptions tho....
Say a giant motor home leaves a sea level location loaded to the hilt and pulling a boat over a high peak. Pulling up steep inclines for hours on end usually places the torque converter under tremendous load going in and out of lock up. While out of lock up it is basically slipping a small amount and this makes heat. With high heat over extended time and the fluid cooks. In this case nothing mechanical has failed yet if the burned fluid is replaced ASAP. This will extend the life of this transmission.
However as fluid breaks down the oil pump wears and no longer builds the pressure needed to hold a clutch pack from slipping. Once it starts to slip, if not addressed soon it kills itself as slipping heats the trans cooking the fluid even more and adding more debris to the fluid. This spirals rapidly if not addressed.
A third and more rare situation that started the myth is this; old fluids used to varnish and turn from pink to yellow. Varnish being like cooking spray building up on your favorite skillet if not cleaned properly. This build up can get so extreme as to stop internal leaks at drums, pistons, and sealing lands where oil pressure is being fed to do work.
A major property of ATF is detergent. New ATF has such a high detergent action it will desolve varnish. In these neglected transmissions where the ATF turned to a yellow shellac the detergent in the new atf will imdeed cause internal leaks and what appeared to be perfectly fine working trans can fail from fluid replacement. Like I said, as fluid technology has improved, this is rare in vehicles from 1990 on. But it is where the myth began.
Repeating myself, but check it at 50k and every 10k after and change it before it stinks, turns color, and degrades.
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F18driver (08-14-17)
08-15-17, 05:05 PM
#212
Driver School Candidate
Well I just went to have my transmission fluid and differential fluid changed on my IS350 with FBO's for the first time after reading this post and here are my results with 120K on the vehicle:
Transmission: Flushed/changed fluid/filter
Original fluid- Dark Brown but needed replacing with very little metal shavings
Differential: Changed fluid
Original fluid: clean/good
Transmission: Flushed/changed fluid/filter
Original fluid- Dark Brown but needed replacing with very little metal shavings
Differential: Changed fluid
Original fluid: clean/good
Last edited by QuickIS; 08-15-17 at 05:10 PM. Reason: used wrong terms
09-07-17, 08:24 PM
#213
Driver School Candidate
Update: drained fluid and re-filled only. Check VSC has come on once when I was driving home from the shop...which was a disappointment. Since then it has not come on again though.
I have not been driving it much as the front lower control arm bushings need replacing and the entire suspension as well.
Car has 159,000.
I have not been driving it much as the front lower control arm bushings need replacing and the entire suspension as well.
Car has 159,000.
11-12-17, 09:51 PM
#214
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At the dealership right now. I have 135k miles on the car. Service advisor said it may need a transmission flush, but may not solve the problem. $4k for a new transmission. Asked him what is the life of a transmission he stated 100k miles. Which seems really low. But many of us seem to be running to issues at around the same mileage.
11-29-17, 11:53 AM
#215
Most of our transmission failure start from either torque converter friction material wears out, or solenoid wears out. When things starts wearing out and cause solenoid engage/disengage issue, the bands, brakes, and clutch packs inside the transmission will then engaged incorrectly and start wearing out rapidly, causing more heat and fluid breakdown, and problem in solenoids. By the time we find out it is usually too late, changing fluid by then won't do much, even changing solenoids probably won't do much.
When this happen to my car I'll just send it in for a rebuild transmission or swap in a lower mileage junkyard one.
When this happen to my car I'll just send it in for a rebuild transmission or swap in a lower mileage junkyard one.
12-01-17, 04:28 PM
#216
Check VCS
Today Morning while driving I got the cel and check vcs warning. I replaced the fuel cover but it remained but then i removed battery terminal and it went away. I went to advance auto parts to check and got error code P0354 P0300-P0306 and c1201. My fuel cover was old so it needed to be replaced other then that I drove above 80 no shuttering, no misfiring smooth as lexus intended . The car is at 101300, two owner car bought from hendrix few month ago and the warranty is over by 4 days. Can I ignore these error code as my car does not show any sort of performance issue, such as loss of power, misfiring, high fuel consumption, vibration or any kind of noise. Will greatly appreciate any expert advice
12-07-17, 02:14 PM
#217
Replacing the Solenoid worked for me!
I have a 2007 IS 250 with 143k miles. It was driving jerky at low speeds, including slowing down to a stop. The CEL and VSC lights came on intermittently at first (on & off for a few days over the course of a month), and then they stayed lit.
I checked the CEL code - P2757 Torque Converter Clutch Press Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. I searched & came across this thread. Read the entire thread. Did I need a new transmission or just a torque control solenoid?
I brought the car to an independent transmission mechanic. He was familiar with this problem. He test drove it and noted that 4th gear seemed to be working fine - it was smooth at high speeds. Since the only code was P2757, he thought there was a good chance that the solenoid alone would fix it. If there were multiple codes and / or high speed jerkiness, he would have recommended rebuilding the trans.
I took a chance and bought the solenoid - part # 35280-30050 from a local Toyota dealer. It took a day to arrive. I paid $210 less a 20% discount the dealer provides to mechanics = $168 + tax. I price-shopped the part at local Lexus and Toyota dealers. Some quoted $230, some $243, and a couple at $210 (w/o the mechanics discount). I was concerned if the less expensive dealers were providing the same part. They have to be - it's from Toyota.
The transmission mechanic offered to install the solenoid (that I provide), change the fluid, install a filter and gasket for $300. I ended up having a different mechanic do it for $340 based on timing availability.
It's been over a week and the CEL code and the low-speed jerky performance are gone. Damages were a little over $500. Hope this helps others in their decisions on this.
I have a 2007 IS 250 with 143k miles. It was driving jerky at low speeds, including slowing down to a stop. The CEL and VSC lights came on intermittently at first (on & off for a few days over the course of a month), and then they stayed lit.
I checked the CEL code - P2757 Torque Converter Clutch Press Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. I searched & came across this thread. Read the entire thread. Did I need a new transmission or just a torque control solenoid?
I brought the car to an independent transmission mechanic. He was familiar with this problem. He test drove it and noted that 4th gear seemed to be working fine - it was smooth at high speeds. Since the only code was P2757, he thought there was a good chance that the solenoid alone would fix it. If there were multiple codes and / or high speed jerkiness, he would have recommended rebuilding the trans.
I took a chance and bought the solenoid - part # 35280-30050 from a local Toyota dealer. It took a day to arrive. I paid $210 less a 20% discount the dealer provides to mechanics = $168 + tax. I price-shopped the part at local Lexus and Toyota dealers. Some quoted $230, some $243, and a couple at $210 (w/o the mechanics discount). I was concerned if the less expensive dealers were providing the same part. They have to be - it's from Toyota.
The transmission mechanic offered to install the solenoid (that I provide), change the fluid, install a filter and gasket for $300. I ended up having a different mechanic do it for $340 based on timing availability.
It's been over a week and the CEL code and the low-speed jerky performance are gone. Damages were a little over $500. Hope this helps others in their decisions on this.
12-11-17, 09:14 AM
#219
Driver School Candidate
I'm in Orange County, CA.
I had Tashmo Auto Center in Santa Ana, CA, replace the solenoid. They charged $340 labor (including trans flush), and I provided the part (35280-30050 - $168 at Elmore Toyota in Westminster, CA - includes 20% mechanic discount). Tashmo is a general mechanic who works on all kinds of cars, but they are very experienced (somewhat specialized) with Lexus & Toyota. The owner (Daniel) used to be a mechanic at a Lexus dealership. The owner warned that replacing the solenoid was not a sure thing. He thought there was a 50/50 chance I would need a new trans.
Well, it's been 6 months since I had it done, and the problem has not come back. So, in my case, it worked.
My first choice on performing the work was to use BT Auto Repair, a small Vietnamese transmission shop in Garden Grove. He was going to charge $300, but he wasn't available at the time I wanted to have the work done. He test drove my car when it had the problem and thought the solenoid would work. He seemed knowledgeable and experienced about this problem. I used him previously to install a trans on another car in my family. He's experienced and his charges are reasonable (on the lower side). English communication is not the best though.
I had Tashmo Auto Center in Santa Ana, CA, replace the solenoid. They charged $340 labor (including trans flush), and I provided the part (35280-30050 - $168 at Elmore Toyota in Westminster, CA - includes 20% mechanic discount). Tashmo is a general mechanic who works on all kinds of cars, but they are very experienced (somewhat specialized) with Lexus & Toyota. The owner (Daniel) used to be a mechanic at a Lexus dealership. The owner warned that replacing the solenoid was not a sure thing. He thought there was a 50/50 chance I would need a new trans.
Well, it's been 6 months since I had it done, and the problem has not come back. So, in my case, it worked.
My first choice on performing the work was to use BT Auto Repair, a small Vietnamese transmission shop in Garden Grove. He was going to charge $300, but he wasn't available at the time I wanted to have the work done. He test drove my car when it had the problem and thought the solenoid would work. He seemed knowledgeable and experienced about this problem. I used him previously to install a trans on another car in my family. He's experienced and his charges are reasonable (on the lower side). English communication is not the best though.
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liquid2 (01-24-18)
03-08-18, 06:48 PM
#220
Driver School Candidate
is there a way to test the solenoids to see if they are indeed bad or good? i bought a used complete valve body with all the solenoids on it for $150 from a transmission parts shop. but im skeptical to install it and waste the fluid / time / effort if the solenoid is bad... i already replaced a new TCC (black plug) but i replaced it in the SL2 location.... i have yet to change the SLU solenoid, (currently have new one on order), but now im also reading that some people replaced the TCC in the SL1 location instead of the SL2..
my P2757 is still on after replacing the TCC solenoid in the SL2 location
my P2757 is still on after replacing the TCC solenoid in the SL2 location
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06GS300Lex (01-10-19)
10-13-18, 09:29 AM
#221
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Hey
hey sorry to bother u i was reading this forum n i also hoave this problem p2757 i was hoping u can help me out dont knke waht to do my car only has 52 k miles any help will help. Thanks
11-04-18, 01:53 AM
#222
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I have had the light on for 2 year . It's drives fine but I was told the trass will go bad soon . Sure enough I have started burning oil , noticed that in the freeway my rpm is high since I am not going into the right gear . Shouldn't there be some warranties from Lexus or a recall? There seams to be a lot of us with the same issue . I have 150 k miles and the vsc lights been on for the last 35k. The car is only 8 years old .
Is there anything I can do about this certain situation?
11-04-18, 07:45 AM
#223
i have a 2008 is350. I bought the car from a used dealership about a year and a half ago. When I went in to buy the car it had the check vsc and engine light on. The dealer said they will have it checked out the following day because it was already late and no mechanics were there. So I went to the dealership the next day and their mechanic took a look at my car. He changed the tensioner with a new one. While he was doing all that I went out to grab something to eat. When I get back and take a look Inside I see a perfect dash with no lights on. I was like a kid in a candy store. So there I am driving home in my excellent condition Lexus. Arrive fine no lights. The following day I get in my car about to drive to stunt on my homies. About 10 miles in the drive the lights come back on. I call the dealership immediately to explain things to him. He tells me to bring in the car. I drive there instead. When I arrive dealer and mechanic are arguing. Mechanic is saying there is nothing to do because the car is fine no mechanical problems whatsoever. I didn’t really like that answer. Dealer begins to speak and tells me that the car is perfectly fine. And that the only reason the engine and vsc lights are on is because the car has aftermarket Megan racing adjustable coil overs. Pulls out the contract and shows me where it specifies that it has an altered suspension system. I’m like ok dude i kind of believe you but i kind of don’t. But whatever. I was too damn excited and took his word for it. A few months later I’m at a red turn signal. When the light turns green I go. As I’m turning the car shifts(most likely down) and begins to drift. I loose control spin out and crash against sidewalk. Car goes up in the air on twos and slams back down. The car was drivable but it wasn’t safe after 5mph. The next day I call the dealership and explain to them what happened. He informs me that the vsc has nothing to do with the acceleration and it was most likely me just trying to look cool gone wrong. And there was nothing they could do. I fixed a few parts myself but the car of course still isn’t running as it was. I wonder if the vsc and engine light has to do with the transmission acting up like that. Since I made the car drivable again I’ve had 3 more incidents of my car drifting after take off. Luckily I don’t freak out like the first time and touch my breaks. Instead now I just gas it and catch the turn.
Is there anything I can do about this certain situation?
As for the 2IS is has the accelerator pedal sensor attached to the gas pedal. Which it is the throttle by wire type. Everything is controlled electronically.
07-12-19, 10:00 AM
#225
Post 208 is basically what my trans guy said about the A960E- he has Tundras and ISx50s coming in a lot with this problem. This post is super helpful, but it sounds like there are a lot of varying levels of damage and therefor success. It sounds like if one catches the issue quickly, the clutch packs are still good, while others have to replace multiple solenoids to still end up doing a rebuild. My IS250 (06) was bought used @90K and already had the engine carbon build up TSB rebuild done by the previous owner. The engine would stutter when coming to a stop / at a stop and I had always figured it was the carbon issue building up again but it seems like it was the torque converter lock up issue all a long. This had been going on for tens of thousands of miles without a CEL, so I had no indication of what was really going on. By the time a CEL and VSV came up (@120K), the car was already getting stuck in 4th gear, then in 3rd gear later. Its very temperamental, sometimes being "fine" (I use quotes because I probably never experienced this trans being at 100%), other times getting stuck in 3rd, crappy upshifts, etc. DId a fluid flush at LMS but the problem persisted. The car always resisted downshifting but I always thought that was Toyota tuning for MPGs.
I decided to go for the jugular- no onesy and twosy solenoid swaps, but rebuild at a shop here in SoCal that apparently pumps these things out (sells them on eBay which is how I found them). The shop owner spouted off the codes shown below from memory + he lists them on ebay = I decided to go with his shop and recommendation. Its the shops opinion the clutch pack is already toast so the rebuild consists of new clutch pack and a transgo shift kit that replaces worn parts, rebuilds a solenoid or two and replaces other parts to change shifting dynamics that transgo feels is better than factory. The shop has an employee that has an is250 that was an early adopter of this kit and has 250K on the original trans. Googling about transgo, a part of their kit ethos is to find what wears out on the OEM design and include beefer replacement parts (or mod the line pressure etc) to remedy this- so drinking the transgo kool-aid, this all sounds pretty good.
I get the car back tomorrow, will report back how it feels and holds up. Kind of wish I was getting whole new solenoids out of this but apparently that skyrockets the price of the rebuild and he has plenty of success with the rebuild components from the transgo kit and whatever other secret sauce he does with the rebuild. I'm wondering if the ECU re-calibration Lexus made is a software equivalent of addressing what the transgo kit does via hardware. He mentioned the Yota trucks with this trans had a TC lockup TSB/reflash/recall.
Pic of codes for reference.
Young me would have tried a solenoid or two first, but older me is just like 'fug it, rebuild by a pro'.
I decided to go for the jugular- no onesy and twosy solenoid swaps, but rebuild at a shop here in SoCal that apparently pumps these things out (sells them on eBay which is how I found them). The shop owner spouted off the codes shown below from memory + he lists them on ebay = I decided to go with his shop and recommendation. Its the shops opinion the clutch pack is already toast so the rebuild consists of new clutch pack and a transgo shift kit that replaces worn parts, rebuilds a solenoid or two and replaces other parts to change shifting dynamics that transgo feels is better than factory. The shop has an employee that has an is250 that was an early adopter of this kit and has 250K on the original trans. Googling about transgo, a part of their kit ethos is to find what wears out on the OEM design and include beefer replacement parts (or mod the line pressure etc) to remedy this- so drinking the transgo kool-aid, this all sounds pretty good.
I get the car back tomorrow, will report back how it feels and holds up. Kind of wish I was getting whole new solenoids out of this but apparently that skyrockets the price of the rebuild and he has plenty of success with the rebuild components from the transgo kit and whatever other secret sauce he does with the rebuild. I'm wondering if the ECU re-calibration Lexus made is a software equivalent of addressing what the transgo kit does via hardware. He mentioned the Yota trucks with this trans had a TC lockup TSB/reflash/recall.
Pic of codes for reference.
Young me would have tried a solenoid or two first, but older me is just like 'fug it, rebuild by a pro'.