Check VSC Light - need to replace transmission
07-14-19, 07:47 PM
#226
Got the car back. Initially there would be a rough idle/shake on start up and at some stop, I was super afraid there was an issue with the TC solenoid, but the re-builder insisted the ECU has to learn. A few drive cycles later and yeah, super smooth. The 1-2 shift is better than I ever remember it being, all the shifts are super smooth. The shifter itself is way smoother when moving from park to N and D, I guess as a side affect of the shift kit, not sure. Here is to hoping I get even more miles from this one than OE did.
07-21-21, 11:56 PM
#228
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07-27-21, 11:26 PM
#229
My 2006 IS250 now has about 158k miles on it. I've been having the issue (like many others) where when I come to a stoplight sometimes the car feels like it's about the shut off (but it doesn't shut off). It kind of stutters.
I took it into the dealer about a year ago and they replaced the pistons and did a top engine cleaning, free of charge. The car ran better for a couple months, but then it went back to how it was before (stuttering at stops/idle).
Then several months ago my Check VSC Light starting to come on. It would be on for a while (ie., a couple hundred miles) and then turn off for a couple hundred miles. Then, it started to get progressively worse where the check engine light would be on the majority of the time. So I bought a OBDII reader and got this error:
P2757: Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
I did some research and it looked like it's a transmission issue, and my transmission might need replacing (or rebuilding at the very least). I didn't want to pay that much so I pushed it off.
Then last week, I met someone at a lunch event who had a 2006 IS250 with about 140k miles. He said he was experiencing the EXACT SAME ISSUES:
1. Car stutters at stops/idle.
2. He took it into and got the pistons replaced and top engine cleaned. The problem quickly returned.
3. He started getting a Check VSC Light that would come on and off, and it eventually started to be on the majority of the time.
4. The engine error code was P2757.
5. He took it into the dealer and they changed to transmission oil which didn't help.
6. The dealer finally recommended replacing the transmission and asked for $5000. He said there was no way he was going to pay that. He had the service manager contact corporate and after some back and forth, corporate offered to pay for parts and he ended up paying for labor.
So, after hearing his story I went into my dealer and after paying $134 for a diagnosis, they told me the error code was P2757: Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off, which I already knew. They said I needed to replace my transmission which would cost $5100.
I told them I wasn't going to pay that much, and that I felt the problem was related to the engine issues that Lexus was trying to solve by replacing pistons but it's actually a transmission issue. My car still stutters at idle/stops even after the pistons were replaced. I'm thinking it's a transmission issue and that the 2006 IS250 has a faulty transmission. I asked my service advisor to contact corporate and ask them to pay for parts and I would pay for labor. Corporate declined my request and now I'm thinking of contacting Corporate myself.
But I'd like to get some feedback from others to see if anybody else has been experiencing the stuttering at idle/stops and if changing the pistons actually fixed the problem or not. Or if the problem might be related to the transmission. And if anybody out there has had the Check VSC Light on (with P2757 error).
Thanks everyone.
I took it into the dealer about a year ago and they replaced the pistons and did a top engine cleaning, free of charge. The car ran better for a couple months, but then it went back to how it was before (stuttering at stops/idle).
Then several months ago my Check VSC Light starting to come on. It would be on for a while (ie., a couple hundred miles) and then turn off for a couple hundred miles. Then, it started to get progressively worse where the check engine light would be on the majority of the time. So I bought a OBDII reader and got this error:
P2757: Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
I did some research and it looked like it's a transmission issue, and my transmission might need replacing (or rebuilding at the very least). I didn't want to pay that much so I pushed it off.
Then last week, I met someone at a lunch event who had a 2006 IS250 with about 140k miles. He said he was experiencing the EXACT SAME ISSUES:
1. Car stutters at stops/idle.
2. He took it into and got the pistons replaced and top engine cleaned. The problem quickly returned.
3. He started getting a Check VSC Light that would come on and off, and it eventually started to be on the majority of the time.
4. The engine error code was P2757.
5. He took it into the dealer and they changed to transmission oil which didn't help.
6. The dealer finally recommended replacing the transmission and asked for $5000. He said there was no way he was going to pay that. He had the service manager contact corporate and after some back and forth, corporate offered to pay for parts and he ended up paying for labor.
So, after hearing his story I went into my dealer and after paying $134 for a diagnosis, they told me the error code was P2757: Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off, which I already knew. They said I needed to replace my transmission which would cost $5100.
I told them I wasn't going to pay that much, and that I felt the problem was related to the engine issues that Lexus was trying to solve by replacing pistons but it's actually a transmission issue. My car still stutters at idle/stops even after the pistons were replaced. I'm thinking it's a transmission issue and that the 2006 IS250 has a faulty transmission. I asked my service advisor to contact corporate and ask them to pay for parts and I would pay for labor. Corporate declined my request and now I'm thinking of contacting Corporate myself.
But I'd like to get some feedback from others to see if anybody else has been experiencing the stuttering at idle/stops and if changing the pistons actually fixed the problem or not. Or if the problem might be related to the transmission. And if anybody out there has had the Check VSC Light on (with P2757 error).
Thanks everyone.
and plug the battery to get rid of the check engine light. now i only drive in sport mode and the warning hasn’t come back since. it drives a lot smoother than it did before also. but im pretty sure its just a temporary fix. ill let you know if anything changes. ive been driving like that for a month
08-02-21, 01:03 PM
#230
Got the car back. Initially there would be a rough idle/shake on start up and at some stop, I was super afraid there was an issue with the TC solenoid, but the re-builder insisted the ECU has to learn. A few drive cycles later and yeah, super smooth. The 1-2 shift is better than I ever remember it being, all the shifts are super smooth. The shifter itself is way smoother when moving from park to N and D, I guess as a side affect of the shift kit, not sure. Here is to hoping I get even more miles from this one than OE did.
The trans started acting up again a long while ago but forgot about this thread. Took it back to the shop (gp transmissions city of industry) as they warranty their work. He diagnosed the trans ECU, seen this numerous times on 06s and sent it to a place that re-sinks the solder (many a gamer out their put their 'broken' GPUs in the oven to do this, I fixed a Nvidia Tesla this way) with a warranty. Though one can DIY this it's worth it to send to a place with precision and I'm assuming adds flux and solder vs guessing with ones oven.
It's back to driving normal. Can't help but think the ecu is what baked the original trans. 06 headunits have a high failure rate too (mine failed). Though IMO we are going to see more and more of this type of issue as solder in general has to become 'greener' and is made with more brittle mixes.
Kids, never ever buy first year of new gens. Never.
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08-03-21, 05:52 AM
#232
Driver School Candidate
Look up this thread.
2006 Lexus IS350 P2757 help?
I posted a picture of exactly what the dealer charged for the repair.
Check it out.
2006 Lexus IS350 P2757 help?
I posted a picture of exactly what the dealer charged for the repair.
Check it out.
Last edited by aaguilar11; 08-03-21 at 05:57 AM.
08-09-21, 06:31 PM
#233
P2757 fix it once and for all...
Hi All, It's good to be back with all of you. I took a long break from Lexus and kept several Toyotas for a few years, but as recent as two months ago, I got rid of all of my monthly payments and paid cash to couple of IS250s (2013 F-Sport with 89k miles and 2007 Deluxe with 204k miles), using some equity I gained from my Toyota sales. I am about to have three college students from my household and I thought it is time to free up some cash for the students.
Now, for the P2757 fix. The older IS250 I bought a month ago was in a not-so-good shape mechanically, just days after purchase several codes popped-up. Two of the codes were familiar to me, having almost three decades of repairing/maintaining Toyotas for personal/family use, I knew that the gas cap and/or one of the O2 sensors need to be replaced. After having done so, I fixed two codes, but two remains, the P2757 and P0741. After two drain and refill of the transmission and battery disconnects, the P0741 disappeared. After a week of thinking about dropping the transmission pan, I finally did it two weeks ago on a weekend. Before that, I bought a 9-piece solenoid kit from eBay, which included a transmission gasket, filter.
One by one, I checked the resistance of the solenoids and I ended up replacing three defective solenoids, the SL1, SL2, and S3. How did I determine they were bad? The resistance checks on all of these solenoids will almost always within range. Here's my trade SECRET, only use a 9 Volt battery to check the contacts, if these is no clicking or movement at all, replace it. Never use a 12 Volt such as a car battery, even defective solenoids will perform well with this method and you might end up burning the solenoid with this test also. The IS solenoids do not need high voltage or current to operate, be careful. Well, after this repair, my 2007 IS250 shifted well for days, until the P2757 code reappeared. At this point, the transmission was shifting smoothly, but with the same CEL code.
At that point, I had one sleepless night when I replayed in my mind, thinking what I did wrong during the solenoids replacement. Then it came to me... I missed the biggest tell-tale sign/s!
I realized that night that with the defective solenoids I checked, upon pulling one out of the slot, I noticed a of oil that spewed out of the solenoid chamber, in every defective solenoid I replaced, there was a lot of oil that came out when I pulled out the solenoids to inspect.
In addition, NOW - this is my biggest fault, I ignored the fact that the SLU and SLT had lots of oil that came out of their slots also. I did not replace these two solenoids initially because they checked-out really good with resistance and voltage checks!
I read something online that these solenoids tend to show their wear and tear and possibly reveal their defects when you drive for an hour and the transmission oil temperature goes way up, causing some metal expansion and eventually causing a solenoid to jam either stuck open/close, followed by a bright CEL in front of you while driving. When the transmission cools down and a battery disconnect procedure for a few minutes on your part will put your vehicle back to normal transmission shifting (until you drive a long time again). This is a cycle I had to confirm for a few days before I dropped-down the transmission oil pan one more time this past weekend. In short, I essentially replaced both the SLU and SLT solenoids this time around, and I must tell you these parts from eBay really work (so far, for me anyway)!
Things are back to normal with my 2007 IS250 - smooth as ever/butter for a 206k miles daily driver, even the gas pedal feels so smooth now, LOL!
Lesson learned: Replace all solenoids that you observe with a lot of oil drippings upon removing them from their slots/chamber! You just have to check/remove them one by one, but don't ignore this BIG sign of sticking solenoid that when it's operating properly, it is supposed to regulate/circulate the oil coming in and our of their respective slots/chambers during normal operation and there should NOT be A LOT of oil stored in the chamber (almost felt pressurized) when you pull out a solenoid, that is your BIG CLUE.
Finally, In case you ask how much was the repair? I ended up spending approximately $500 for the P2757 FIX (5 solenoids, 18-quarts of WS transmission oil, transmission filter, and gasket plus a total of 9 hours of personal labor afterwards)!
Before you decide to pay for transmission replacement, use the money with your trade-in (your car with bad transmission) for a another Lexus instead. Avoid repeat headaches next time, change transmission oil almost as often as you would replace your engine oil. I may have to change both engine and transmission oil every year (8000 miles) now. Happy tinkering, enjoy your hobby, but be safe out there!
Now, for the P2757 fix. The older IS250 I bought a month ago was in a not-so-good shape mechanically, just days after purchase several codes popped-up. Two of the codes were familiar to me, having almost three decades of repairing/maintaining Toyotas for personal/family use, I knew that the gas cap and/or one of the O2 sensors need to be replaced. After having done so, I fixed two codes, but two remains, the P2757 and P0741. After two drain and refill of the transmission and battery disconnects, the P0741 disappeared. After a week of thinking about dropping the transmission pan, I finally did it two weeks ago on a weekend. Before that, I bought a 9-piece solenoid kit from eBay, which included a transmission gasket, filter.
One by one, I checked the resistance of the solenoids and I ended up replacing three defective solenoids, the SL1, SL2, and S3. How did I determine they were bad? The resistance checks on all of these solenoids will almost always within range. Here's my trade SECRET, only use a 9 Volt battery to check the contacts, if these is no clicking or movement at all, replace it. Never use a 12 Volt such as a car battery, even defective solenoids will perform well with this method and you might end up burning the solenoid with this test also. The IS solenoids do not need high voltage or current to operate, be careful. Well, after this repair, my 2007 IS250 shifted well for days, until the P2757 code reappeared. At this point, the transmission was shifting smoothly, but with the same CEL code.
At that point, I had one sleepless night when I replayed in my mind, thinking what I did wrong during the solenoids replacement. Then it came to me... I missed the biggest tell-tale sign/s!
I realized that night that with the defective solenoids I checked, upon pulling one out of the slot, I noticed a of oil that spewed out of the solenoid chamber, in every defective solenoid I replaced, there was a lot of oil that came out when I pulled out the solenoids to inspect.
In addition, NOW - this is my biggest fault, I ignored the fact that the SLU and SLT had lots of oil that came out of their slots also. I did not replace these two solenoids initially because they checked-out really good with resistance and voltage checks!
I read something online that these solenoids tend to show their wear and tear and possibly reveal their defects when you drive for an hour and the transmission oil temperature goes way up, causing some metal expansion and eventually causing a solenoid to jam either stuck open/close, followed by a bright CEL in front of you while driving. When the transmission cools down and a battery disconnect procedure for a few minutes on your part will put your vehicle back to normal transmission shifting (until you drive a long time again). This is a cycle I had to confirm for a few days before I dropped-down the transmission oil pan one more time this past weekend. In short, I essentially replaced both the SLU and SLT solenoids this time around, and I must tell you these parts from eBay really work (so far, for me anyway)!
Things are back to normal with my 2007 IS250 - smooth as ever/butter for a 206k miles daily driver, even the gas pedal feels so smooth now, LOL!
Lesson learned: Replace all solenoids that you observe with a lot of oil drippings upon removing them from their slots/chamber! You just have to check/remove them one by one, but don't ignore this BIG sign of sticking solenoid that when it's operating properly, it is supposed to regulate/circulate the oil coming in and our of their respective slots/chambers during normal operation and there should NOT be A LOT of oil stored in the chamber (almost felt pressurized) when you pull out a solenoid, that is your BIG CLUE.
Finally, In case you ask how much was the repair? I ended up spending approximately $500 for the P2757 FIX (5 solenoids, 18-quarts of WS transmission oil, transmission filter, and gasket plus a total of 9 hours of personal labor afterwards)!
Before you decide to pay for transmission replacement, use the money with your trade-in (your car with bad transmission) for a another Lexus instead. Avoid repeat headaches next time, change transmission oil almost as often as you would replace your engine oil. I may have to change both engine and transmission oil every year (8000 miles) now. Happy tinkering, enjoy your hobby, but be safe out there!
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01-25-22, 09:18 PM
#234
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Join Date: Jan 2022
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I only get the P0761, but cant shift to third gear on a IS250 2006 with 170k I wonder if I should attempt changing the SLU and TCC selenoids at once, or just test them.
I am planning on taking it to a shop
I am planning on taking it to a shop
01-25-22, 09:19 PM
#235
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Hi All, It's good to be back with all of you. I took a long break from Lexus and kept several Toyotas for a few years, but as recent as two months ago, I got rid of all of my monthly payments and paid cash to couple of IS250s (2013 F-Sport with 89k miles and 2007 Deluxe with 204k miles), using some equity I gained from my Toyota sales. I am about to have three college students from my household and I thought it is time to free up some cash for the students.
Now, for the P2757 fix. The older IS250 I bought a month ago was in a not-so-good shape mechanically, just days after purchase several codes popped-up. Two of the codes were familiar to me, having almost three decades of repairing/maintaining Toyotas for personal/family use, I knew that the gas cap and/or one of the O2 sensors need to be replaced. After having done so, I fixed two codes, but two remains, the P2757 and P0741. After two drain and refill of the transmission and battery disconnects, the P0741 disappeared. After a week of thinking about dropping the transmission pan, I finally did it two weeks ago on a weekend. Before that, I bought a 9-piece solenoid kit from eBay, which included a transmission gasket, filter.
One by one, I checked the resistance of the solenoids and I ended up replacing three defective solenoids, the SL1, SL2, and S3. How did I determine they were bad? The resistance checks on all of these solenoids will almost always within range. Here's my trade SECRET, only use a 9 Volt battery to check the contacts, if these is no clicking or movement at all, replace it. Never use a 12 Volt such as a car battery, even defective solenoids will perform well with this method and you might end up burning the solenoid with this test also. The IS solenoids do not need high voltage or current to operate, be careful. Well, after this repair, my 2007 IS250 shifted well for days, until the P2757 code reappeared. At this point, the transmission was shifting smoothly, but with the same CEL code.
At that point, I had one sleepless night when I replayed in my mind, thinking what I did wrong during the solenoids replacement. Then it came to me... I missed the biggest tell-tale sign/s!
I realized that night that with the defective solenoids I checked, upon pulling one out of the slot, I noticed a of oil that spewed out of the solenoid chamber, in every defective solenoid I replaced, there was a lot of oil that came out when I pulled out the solenoids to inspect.
In addition, NOW - this is my biggest fault, I ignored the fact that the SLU and SLT had lots of oil that came out of their slots also. I did not replace these two solenoids initially because they checked-out really good with resistance and voltage checks!
I read something online that these solenoids tend to show their wear and tear and possibly reveal their defects when you drive for an hour and the transmission oil temperature goes way up, causing some metal expansion and eventually causing a solenoid to jam either stuck open/close, followed by a bright CEL in front of you while driving. When the transmission cools down and a battery disconnect procedure for a few minutes on your part will put your vehicle back to normal transmission shifting (until you drive a long time again). This is a cycle I had to confirm for a few days before I dropped-down the transmission oil pan one more time this past weekend. In short, I essentially replaced both the SLU and SLT solenoids this time around, and I must tell you these parts from eBay really work (so far, for me anyway)!
Things are back to normal with my 2007 IS250 - smooth as ever/butter for a 206k miles daily driver, even the gas pedal feels so smooth now, LOL!
Lesson learned: Replace all solenoids that you observe with a lot of oil drippings upon removing them from their slots/chamber! You just have to check/remove them one by one, but don't ignore this BIG sign of sticking solenoid that when it's operating properly, it is supposed to regulate/circulate the oil coming in and our of their respective slots/chambers during normal operation and there should NOT be A LOT of oil stored in the chamber (almost felt pressurized) when you pull out a solenoid, that is your BIG CLUE.
Finally, In case you ask how much was the repair? I ended up spending approximately $500 for the P2757 FIX (5 solenoids, 18-quarts of WS transmission oil, transmission filter, and gasket plus a total of 9 hours of personal labor afterwards)!
Before you decide to pay for transmission replacement, use the money with your trade-in (your car with bad transmission) for a another Lexus instead. Avoid repeat headaches next time, change transmission oil almost as often as you would replace your engine oil. I may have to change both engine and transmission oil every year (8000 miles) now. Happy tinkering, enjoy your hobby, but be safe out there!
Now, for the P2757 fix. The older IS250 I bought a month ago was in a not-so-good shape mechanically, just days after purchase several codes popped-up. Two of the codes were familiar to me, having almost three decades of repairing/maintaining Toyotas for personal/family use, I knew that the gas cap and/or one of the O2 sensors need to be replaced. After having done so, I fixed two codes, but two remains, the P2757 and P0741. After two drain and refill of the transmission and battery disconnects, the P0741 disappeared. After a week of thinking about dropping the transmission pan, I finally did it two weeks ago on a weekend. Before that, I bought a 9-piece solenoid kit from eBay, which included a transmission gasket, filter.
One by one, I checked the resistance of the solenoids and I ended up replacing three defective solenoids, the SL1, SL2, and S3. How did I determine they were bad? The resistance checks on all of these solenoids will almost always within range. Here's my trade SECRET, only use a 9 Volt battery to check the contacts, if these is no clicking or movement at all, replace it. Never use a 12 Volt such as a car battery, even defective solenoids will perform well with this method and you might end up burning the solenoid with this test also. The IS solenoids do not need high voltage or current to operate, be careful. Well, after this repair, my 2007 IS250 shifted well for days, until the P2757 code reappeared. At this point, the transmission was shifting smoothly, but with the same CEL code.
At that point, I had one sleepless night when I replayed in my mind, thinking what I did wrong during the solenoids replacement. Then it came to me... I missed the biggest tell-tale sign/s!
I realized that night that with the defective solenoids I checked, upon pulling one out of the slot, I noticed a of oil that spewed out of the solenoid chamber, in every defective solenoid I replaced, there was a lot of oil that came out when I pulled out the solenoids to inspect.
In addition, NOW - this is my biggest fault, I ignored the fact that the SLU and SLT had lots of oil that came out of their slots also. I did not replace these two solenoids initially because they checked-out really good with resistance and voltage checks!
I read something online that these solenoids tend to show their wear and tear and possibly reveal their defects when you drive for an hour and the transmission oil temperature goes way up, causing some metal expansion and eventually causing a solenoid to jam either stuck open/close, followed by a bright CEL in front of you while driving. When the transmission cools down and a battery disconnect procedure for a few minutes on your part will put your vehicle back to normal transmission shifting (until you drive a long time again). This is a cycle I had to confirm for a few days before I dropped-down the transmission oil pan one more time this past weekend. In short, I essentially replaced both the SLU and SLT solenoids this time around, and I must tell you these parts from eBay really work (so far, for me anyway)!
Things are back to normal with my 2007 IS250 - smooth as ever/butter for a 206k miles daily driver, even the gas pedal feels so smooth now, LOL!
Lesson learned: Replace all solenoids that you observe with a lot of oil drippings upon removing them from their slots/chamber! You just have to check/remove them one by one, but don't ignore this BIG sign of sticking solenoid that when it's operating properly, it is supposed to regulate/circulate the oil coming in and our of their respective slots/chambers during normal operation and there should NOT be A LOT of oil stored in the chamber (almost felt pressurized) when you pull out a solenoid, that is your BIG CLUE.
Finally, In case you ask how much was the repair? I ended up spending approximately $500 for the P2757 FIX (5 solenoids, 18-quarts of WS transmission oil, transmission filter, and gasket plus a total of 9 hours of personal labor afterwards)!
Before you decide to pay for transmission replacement, use the money with your trade-in (your car with bad transmission) for a another Lexus instead. Avoid repeat headaches next time, change transmission oil almost as often as you would replace your engine oil. I may have to change both engine and transmission oil every year (8000 miles) now. Happy tinkering, enjoy your hobby, but be safe out there!
I am planning on taking it to a shop
01-25-22, 09:49 PM
#236
The most important thing to consider when testing both the ebay and your car's solenoids is sound and movements. A bad solenoid does not make any sound or movement using a 9V battery. If you use a 12V source like a car battery or plug-in power supply is they almost always make the solenoids click and move.
I had to drop my transmission oil pan twice because I used a 12V source which gave me similar error codes was almost always too powerful to give you an accurate state of a bad solenoid. The solenoids should move and click with very minimal current and voltage applied on the terminals.
When you decide to drop the pan, change the oil filter and test all the nine (9) solenoids for clicking and movements using only a brand new 9V (Energizer/Eveready/Duracell) battery used for small electronics.
Replace all solenoids with inconsistent test results then drain and refill the transmission oil two or three times after every 5k miles (of course after changing all the bad solenoids, oil filter, and successful oil pan reinstallation process = fresh gasket and proper torque on all bolts).
After almost a year and 15k miles after transmission issues finally fixed, my 2007 IS250 with 212k miles drive like my son's 2013 IS250 F Sport with 90k miles - smooooothhhh!
Lastly, the fix above may note work if you have codes for a bad torque converter, or old and abused transmission. Good Luck!
01-25-22, 10:02 PM
#237
Individually remove end test all solenoids with a fresh 9V battery only. You should hear click and see movement on the solenoid consistently after several attempts of applying low voltage and current to the terminals. Testing the solenoids other than and only a fresh 9V battery will not give you a peace of mind.
04-18-22, 01:51 AM
#238
Driver School Candidate
Hello, I have Lexus IS 250 from 2006 year with automatic transmission and I have codes P2757 and C1201. I changed the solenoid, oil and filter for the transmission.
Are these codes connected with the ecm and tcm, should I buy knew computer or the problem is with transmission? Has anyone solved this problem?
Are these codes connected with the ecm and tcm, should I buy knew computer or the problem is with transmission? Has anyone solved this problem?
08-26-22, 05:54 PM
#239
Hey all, had a p2757 pop up on my 2007 is350 with 124k on it. Replaced the TCC solenoid, drained the transmission and replaced fluid, replaced the filter/gasket etc. P2757 went away and had no problems until about 2 weeks ago. Currently have 131k on the car and am intermittently unable to shift past 4th gear into 5th and 6th gear. Some days it will shift through all 6 gears and then the next it will only shift through the first 4. I don’t have a CEL light on currently and am wondering if anyone had any guidance. I took it to Lexus hand they told me that they could pressure test the transmission for ~$430… which would tell them if the pressure is too low or too high. Either way they recommend replacing the transmission (if pressure too low or high). If the pressure is normal, they recommend doing a flush… however at the dealership they only do a partial flush. I found a local shop that has a machine that will completely flush the transmission using the natural flow of the fluid to prevent damaging the internals. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this or any recommendations. Thanks!
08-26-22, 05:57 PM
#240
From this post and the mention of black oil I have this to share. PS former transmission mechanic.
Here are the basics of what the transmissions Torque Converter (T/C) is doing. In an effort to make automatic transmissions more efficient the transmission has what is called a lock up style torque converter. What this does is basically operates like a manual transmission clutch (IN or OUT) that engages at highway speeds to reduce slip AND power loss from the engine output to the transmissions input shaft. This clutch is inside the Torque Converter and is controlled by the TCC applying hydraulic pressure to a piston.
In short at low speed the T/C clutch never locks. When the Foot Brake is applied, a signal is sent to the TCC to unlock the T/C clutch. This occurs in most every gear above 2nd and likely any speed below about 40mph depending on the vehicle.
Most cars it goes like this:
1st gear = NO TCC lock up.
2nd gear = NO TCC lock up.
3rd gear > 40MPH TCC lock up occurs when foot brake is off, Engine is Warm and throttle is not mashed to the floor. Depending on the load (up hill, down hill, or flat out cruise and Throttle Position Sensor input (TPS), the TCC will go in and out of lock up and most do not notice.
4th - 6th behave like 3rd gear.
If you pay close attention you notice what feels like a little bump, a nudge, or even a gear shift when the TCC engages in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th.
i.e. The pattern goes like this when accelerating from a stop.
1st - > 2nd
2nd - > 3rd
3rd - > 3rd locked (If above ~ 35mph)
3rd Locked to 4th Unlocked (TCC disconnects so you don't feel a harsh shift)
4th Unlocked -> 4th Locked
4th Locked -> 5th Unlocked
5th Unlocked -> 5th Locked
5th Locked -> 6th Unlocked
6th Unlocked - > 6th Lockup.....
All of this is speed and load dependent. As well as engine temp, brake position, outside temperature and to some extent transmission temperature. Locking the T/C reduces slip from the T/C and can lower the operating temperature of the transmission. In short three things make heat in a transmission: The pump that makes the working pressure the trans needs to operate. The T/C when slipping. I.e. stalled as in: Throttle mashed, brakes ON, Car Stopped, the T/C being fluid coupler is slipping and making lots of HEAT! The next is internal clutch slip. When there is not enough hydraulic clamp force to prevent internal clutch slip, the steel and friction discs slip making heat. This is like rubbing your hands together aggressively. Extreme heat breaks down the fluid and kills the trans.
Why does the car shudder when the TCC solenoid fails? Internal to the torque converter is piston and clutch somewhat like a manual transmission. When you get below about 30 mph the clutch in the T/C is supposed to disengage and BREAK the DIRECT coupling effect from the engine to the trans. The Shudder is like driving a Stick Shift and mashing the brake without first pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop. Without slip from the clutch (or in this case the T/C), the engine load causes bucking. When this system fails the ECU knows the engine load is high (abnormal) and that the trans is still directly coupled and triggers a CEL. From here is may stay in limp mode never going past 3rd gear.
As a newb to the IS350 crowd I find this thread alarming. Mine has 52k and will have the fluid dumped before 60k comes around.
I am not saying everyone go out the dump their fluid but I am going to check mine for volume, color, and smell. If dark and stinky it will be changed. If low it will be changed.
A tip to those who do this: Check the level at a known temperature. Drain the oil using the pans drain plug. Measure all oil coming out. Start the car for about 3-4 seconds while in park. This dumps some of the fluid from the T/C. Let it drain into the drain pan.
Drop the oil pan, pull and replace the filter. Install a new filter. MEASURE ALL FLUID that came out!!!!! Install pan and plug.
PUMP IN 2qts of new fluid. Start Engine and allow to idle for at least 60 seconds. Turn ENGINE OFF. Add the remainder of the fluid.
Normalize oil temp and check fluid volume. Adjust as needed.
USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE, HARM, LOSS OF PERFORMANCE OR ANYTHING ELSE IF YOU USE THIS ADVICE.
*** USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! ***
Mine will get new TWS fluid at 60k. The above process will be repeated at least 2 to 3 times replacing the fluid approximately 3.5 qts per session minus the initial filter change. PS - when out of warranty fluid will be changed to synthetic.
Good luck people....
Here are the basics of what the transmissions Torque Converter (T/C) is doing. In an effort to make automatic transmissions more efficient the transmission has what is called a lock up style torque converter. What this does is basically operates like a manual transmission clutch (IN or OUT) that engages at highway speeds to reduce slip AND power loss from the engine output to the transmissions input shaft. This clutch is inside the Torque Converter and is controlled by the TCC applying hydraulic pressure to a piston.
In short at low speed the T/C clutch never locks. When the Foot Brake is applied, a signal is sent to the TCC to unlock the T/C clutch. This occurs in most every gear above 2nd and likely any speed below about 40mph depending on the vehicle.
Most cars it goes like this:
1st gear = NO TCC lock up.
2nd gear = NO TCC lock up.
3rd gear > 40MPH TCC lock up occurs when foot brake is off, Engine is Warm and throttle is not mashed to the floor. Depending on the load (up hill, down hill, or flat out cruise and Throttle Position Sensor input (TPS), the TCC will go in and out of lock up and most do not notice.
4th - 6th behave like 3rd gear.
If you pay close attention you notice what feels like a little bump, a nudge, or even a gear shift when the TCC engages in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th.
i.e. The pattern goes like this when accelerating from a stop.
1st - > 2nd
2nd - > 3rd
3rd - > 3rd locked (If above ~ 35mph)
3rd Locked to 4th Unlocked (TCC disconnects so you don't feel a harsh shift)
4th Unlocked -> 4th Locked
4th Locked -> 5th Unlocked
5th Unlocked -> 5th Locked
5th Locked -> 6th Unlocked
6th Unlocked - > 6th Lockup.....
All of this is speed and load dependent. As well as engine temp, brake position, outside temperature and to some extent transmission temperature. Locking the T/C reduces slip from the T/C and can lower the operating temperature of the transmission. In short three things make heat in a transmission: The pump that makes the working pressure the trans needs to operate. The T/C when slipping. I.e. stalled as in: Throttle mashed, brakes ON, Car Stopped, the T/C being fluid coupler is slipping and making lots of HEAT! The next is internal clutch slip. When there is not enough hydraulic clamp force to prevent internal clutch slip, the steel and friction discs slip making heat. This is like rubbing your hands together aggressively. Extreme heat breaks down the fluid and kills the trans.
Why does the car shudder when the TCC solenoid fails? Internal to the torque converter is piston and clutch somewhat like a manual transmission. When you get below about 30 mph the clutch in the T/C is supposed to disengage and BREAK the DIRECT coupling effect from the engine to the trans. The Shudder is like driving a Stick Shift and mashing the brake without first pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop. Without slip from the clutch (or in this case the T/C), the engine load causes bucking. When this system fails the ECU knows the engine load is high (abnormal) and that the trans is still directly coupled and triggers a CEL. From here is may stay in limp mode never going past 3rd gear.
As a newb to the IS350 crowd I find this thread alarming. Mine has 52k and will have the fluid dumped before 60k comes around.
I am not saying everyone go out the dump their fluid but I am going to check mine for volume, color, and smell. If dark and stinky it will be changed. If low it will be changed.
A tip to those who do this: Check the level at a known temperature. Drain the oil using the pans drain plug. Measure all oil coming out. Start the car for about 3-4 seconds while in park. This dumps some of the fluid from the T/C. Let it drain into the drain pan.
Drop the oil pan, pull and replace the filter. Install a new filter. MEASURE ALL FLUID that came out!!!!! Install pan and plug.
PUMP IN 2qts of new fluid. Start Engine and allow to idle for at least 60 seconds. Turn ENGINE OFF. Add the remainder of the fluid.
Normalize oil temp and check fluid volume. Adjust as needed.
USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE, HARM, LOSS OF PERFORMANCE OR ANYTHING ELSE IF YOU USE THIS ADVICE.
*** USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! ***
Mine will get new TWS fluid at 60k. The above process will be repeated at least 2 to 3 times replacing the fluid approximately 3.5 qts per session minus the initial filter change. PS - when out of warranty fluid will be changed to synthetic.
Good luck people....
2013FSport any recommendations? Idk if you are even still on here haha I know it has been a few years.