GXGSAm

When I had the same issue with my transmission, I did the same thing like what you did plus, I individually tested all the solenoids using a fresh 9V battery the second time I dropped the pan. The first time, I used the car battery (12v) power and it was too much for the solenoids it gave me false readings which didn’t really totally fixed my shifting problems. So, using a brand new 9V battery to test the solenoids, I ended up replacing three more other solenoids (sorry I forgot which ones) and all of my
transmission issues on on IS250 completely went away and the shifting was so good it felt like brand new transmission again, my car’s mileage at that point was 210k miles. As for your particular case, there may be some clogged solenoids that needs cleaning or replacement and the transmission flush may or may not work for you. It will depend on whether the clogged-up solenoid/s can be cleaned using the transmission flush method and that the solenoid/s is/are still operating normally.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

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Lets begin with the past thing you said, a shop that knows these cars should know that it has no easy access to an external oil circuit as the oil cooler is a heat exchanger on the side of the trans. It does not lend itself to an easy line disconnect, pump it out/pump it in transfusion.

As your actual condition, there is a lot to check and check correctly. The post above, check the solenoids. This must be done. The valve body also needs to come apart and verify all of the check valves have not eroded through the separator plate. Then with compressed air, pressure test the transmission drums and pistons. Its not for everyone but then again, neither is replacing the transmission.

The key ingredient is testing to understand whats wrong vs throwing parts at it. Again, the post above, the solenoids must operate, and that means seal when it needs to seal, and open when it needs to open. Granted, the 3-way ones are more complex but they must be tested. I'd definitely backflow all of them to ensure the screen is clean. Energize them and repeat.

Let us know if you have specific questions.

212IS250

iTrader: (1)

To add to this... in the spring my radiator failed, 127K miles MY 2008. I purchased it from a toyota dealer with 111K miles for reference. Radiator failure = mixed coolant and atf. I was still well within the 3 year/36K mile VSC I purchased but after months of battling with the shady VSC company (who owns the insurance company who underwrites them) - no big surprise but with a CF hood, trunk and other non-original parts claim denied. The adjusters they sent also said I had peddle covers (the Oem aluminum pedals). No use I battled it out for 3 months and the issuing dealer even got involved. Where I live no shops have been willing to take on the work after I explain that the vehicle is an IS-F and there are no numbers after the IS and the F does NOT stand for F-Sport. It's been to 5 shops in the past 6 months. But I digress.

One shop was willing to do it under the condition they sourced the transmission. Fair enough, I gave a $200 deposit and after 1.5 months never heard back. Called up and had the vehicle brought to a transmission shop whose owner said the other shop called him a month ago asking what to do... (small town). They said they cleaned the pan and tested the solenoids and it all seemed alright but there was an electrical issue. (dead battery and dead alternator which I did myself). For the hell l of it I pulled the pan and it was filthy... so I pull the pan off my old transmission and its spotless... I'm assuming the techs figured the transmission OUTSIDE the vehicle was the one they were prepping to go IN. sigh... so I tested all those solenoids and also studied how it was all put together. No other choice but to try and rebuild this myself as I don't have the funds right now to just go out buy a transmission and have it installed. Plus a learning experience. But now I'm wondering if they ever even put the new transmissions comp code in as the sticker is pretty faded and worn off, even the QR code. if anyone knows if its stamped somewhere else please let me know.

To the present, the car has a new thermostat, battery, alternator, radiator, starter and transmission. I'm out about $1K and 5 months plus the aggravation of dealing with the VSC. Prior to this I would also get the VSC light (which now is on permanently) and also my power steering would occasionally go out. after testing all solenoids and flushing the system to get the sludge out, I filled the system with ATF WS. Meanwhile this whole time the car starts up and idles fine. I have Techstream, scanners etc. The other day I was feeling good because the car which wouldn't move regardless of which gear it was in started moving forward and I could feel it wanted to move in reverse under its own power. I figured it just needed pressure to build up. Somewhere on the drivers side right on top of the cat ATF is leaking out and I have a feeling thats preventing proper pressure will need to dig into that the next day it's not raining. I'm also getting every solenoid code possible and when I looked last night the plug to the transmission has a broken latch clip - my last effort will be making sure all electronic connectors are clean of oil or atf fluid.

Years ago I had an is250 MT I remember it needed the entire top end of the engine replaced and I was without a car for 3 months. It was always in the shop (under warranty) for something...