Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

Hello,


I am planning install some dual 12's and an amp in my car but was wondering if changing the HU was necessary?

What else would I need to add this system in my car? Would I lose the OEM sub functionality as well or would they also work with the new subs?

I have the subs, box, and amp ready to go. Just need some clarification.

Thanks.

Nixcision

iTrader: (3)

i blew my stock sub, so when I had my box and amp installed, I had the shop disconnect my stock sub because it kept rattling around.
With regards to parts, all I remember purchasing apart from my sub setup was a hi-low converter and some rca wiring.... I didn't have to change my stock head unit.
Apart from changing headlight bulbs, electronic installation is something I have shied away from.... many people do their own, but circuitry and wiring can get complex depending on your setup and is not as "simple" as installing something like coilovers or an intake.
I took my sub setup to a reputable shop and signed on the dotted line

Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

THanks for the details. How was the sound quality like with the stock HU? Did you notice when using the aux jack, the sound quality decreased?

Nixcision

iTrader: (3)

Sound was good, the only difference being that the bass was coming from a dual box in the trunk!
The rest of my stereo setup is stock, so hard to notice a big change in hi frequencies but a bit of mids and lows were more emphasized for sure (these can usually be adjusted on the box itself (what frequencies to start "playing" at).
With the aux chord, sound quality was great. Basically equivalent to the CDs I had been using before.

Unrelated:: I was just reading up on this subject a little while ago and found an article recommending the use of a bass **** + line driver. This is essentially an addition to your setup allowing you to control the subwoofer from your driver seat as well as boost the signal from your stereo for better output. I found the JL audio CL-RLC to be referenced more than once to bring more life to the bass and adjust the HU independently to avoid blowing your other speakers when trying to raise bass ~
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-CL-RLC.html (the reviews seem great)

metaleckz

iTrader: (9)

Did it myself with little to no previous experience with wiring and stuff. Basically you wire the subs to the LOC then from there get the signal from the old stock subs OR get signal from the rear subs + 2 fromt speaker +2 rear speaker. It really sounds great

Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

Sorry not familiar with audio terms. I googled LOC and got line output converter. Is this thing a must?

In your opinion would getting the signal from the OEM subs be better or from the other speakers?

I dont min dlosing my factory subs, jus wondering which would give better sounds.

metaleckz

iTrader: (9)

Yes its a must. Thats how you get signal if you plan on keeping the stock HU. Also, i would recommend taking the stock subs out. Itll be too much

cruzinZ

Your money your choice. I would recommend educating yourself on the audio portion of your car. Also make sure you get what you want out of a stero system. If you take your car into a professional its buyers beware. There are many audio companies that will cut corners and provide poor workmanship at high labor rates.

Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for confirming. Now someone above said I might require a hi-low converter. Is this the same as a line output converter or are they both required?

Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

Would I be getting 2chn or 4chn LOC?

flyguy616

trunk looks nice

Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

Can anyone chime in if I need a 2chn or 4chn LOC? Looking to have this installed soon.

Thanks.

flyguy616

your only adding 1 amp for subs?

Zynthe

iTrader: (5)

Hello,

yes one amp for the dual subs. Will this make a difference?

flyguy616

You should be good with a 2chan loc then since you are only using 1 amp