Anyone try an ISF front sway bar on an IS350?
#16
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
If you want to change up the feel upgrade to the FIGS Engineering polyurethane bushings. The F sport rubber bushings still degrade over time, and deform. The poly bushings engage better, and always maintain their shape. They do increase a little NVH though. With the stock F sport bushings the front still felt loose for me. As I have the miss matched AWD kit. F sport front paired with the 19mm staight bar. Instead of the 17mm that comes with the kit.
#17
Driver School Candidate
Hi CL,
Noticed that the stock ISF rear sway is curved in the middle section. Yet the F-Sport Rear sway PTR02-53080 is straight. Any reason why would Lexus do this since it probably will require more raw material to manufacture. Reason I am asking is I have a JDM IS250 and would like to know if I will run into clearance issues with the F-Sport rear bar. My stock bar is curved.
Noticed that the stock ISF rear sway is curved in the middle section. Yet the F-Sport Rear sway PTR02-53080 is straight. Any reason why would Lexus do this since it probably will require more raw material to manufacture. Reason I am asking is I have a JDM IS250 and would like to know if I will run into clearance issues with the F-Sport rear bar. My stock bar is curved.
#18
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
Hi CL,
Noticed that the stock ISF rear sway is curved in the middle section. Yet the F-Sport Rear sway PTR02-53080 is straight. Any reason why would Lexus do this since it probably will require more raw material to manufacture. Reason I am asking is I have a JDM IS250 and would like to know if I will run into clearance issues with the F-Sport rear bar. My stock bar is curved.
Noticed that the stock ISF rear sway is curved in the middle section. Yet the F-Sport Rear sway PTR02-53080 is straight. Any reason why would Lexus do this since it probably will require more raw material to manufacture. Reason I am asking is I have a JDM IS250 and would like to know if I will run into clearance issues with the F-Sport rear bar. My stock bar is curved.
#19
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
I have an an IS-F rear on a 2013 RWD F-Sport. It fits fine although the curves are different. If you slammed your car you may need different end links to prevent contact w the floor pan.
Look here at post #9
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...nance-diy.html
Look here at post #9
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...nance-diy.html
#20
Driver School Candidate
I have an an IS-F rear on a 2013 RWD F-Sport. It fits fine although the curves are different. If you slammed your car you may need different end links to prevent contact w the floor pan.
Look here at post #9
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...nance-diy.html
Look here at post #9
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...nance-diy.html
#21
I have the IS F front sway bar on my 2011. I swapped out from the F-Sport to the IS F bar as I was getting some clunking from the F-Sport bar in cold weather (below -5C) that I didn't care for. The IS F bar is actually a larger diameter (just slightly) than the F-Sport bar. That said, both are hollow and the IS F bar has a thinner wall thickness.
Obviously I didn't cut them open to measure the exact differences, but the IS F bar is noticeably lighter then the F-Sport. In practice the IS F bar is slightly less stiff than the F-Sport and so lends itself to oversteer a bit more when coupled with the F-Sport rear bar. I like it, a good balance.
The bushings used on the IS F bar are far superior to the ones that come with the F-Sport kit and I no longer experience any odd sounds from the front suspension.
If you have a 2006-2008 ISx50 the bar is a direct fit, if you have a 2009-2013 you will need end links from an IS F or a 2006-2008 ISx50 as they are different.
Jeff
Obviously I didn't cut them open to measure the exact differences, but the IS F bar is noticeably lighter then the F-Sport. In practice the IS F bar is slightly less stiff than the F-Sport and so lends itself to oversteer a bit more when coupled with the F-Sport rear bar. I like it, a good balance.
The bushings used on the IS F bar are far superior to the ones that come with the F-Sport kit and I no longer experience any odd sounds from the front suspension.
If you have a 2006-2008 ISx50 the bar is a direct fit, if you have a 2009-2013 you will need end links from an IS F or a 2006-2008 ISx50 as they are different.
Jeff
Can an 2011 IS F front sway bar be installed in a 2006 - 2008 IS 350 without issue (only when any IS F bar is installed in 2009-2013 IS 350 will you need end links from the IS F or a 2006-2008 ISx50 as they are different.).
When installing the IS F front sway bar (part # 4881153070) and bushings (part # 4881553060), in a 2006 - 2008 IS 350, can the existing sway bar brackets be used, or need to change as well (part # 48824-30130 front L or R) ?
Last edited by ELexis; 08-22-21 at 06:27 AM.
#23
Understood, thank you Jeff! So just new bushings to fit the IS F front sway bar (due to larger diameter over the OEM IS 350 bar).
The following users liked this post:
Jeff Lange (08-26-21)
#24
Apologies for not inquiring in previous post however, does the shape of the sway bar (several bends vs. being straight), provide different handling characterizes (Oversteer / Understeer etc.), when installed in either the IS F (heavier due to the 5.0) or IS 350 (lighter due to the 3.5)? Or is the shape not relevant to a vehicles handling, and is shaped due to it being made to fit in a particular vehicle due to clearance issues?
Last edited by ELexis; 08-28-21 at 10:03 AM.
#25
Racer
iTrader: (2)
Apologies for not inquiring in previous post however, does the shape of the sway bar (several bends vs. being straight), provide different handling characterizes (Oversteer / Understeer etc.), when installed in either the IS F (heavier due to the 5.0) or IS 350 (lighter due to the 3.5)? Or is the shape not relevant to a vehicles handling, and is shaped due to it being made to fit in a particular vehicle due to clearance issues?
#26
#27
Installing the front sway bar with the use of ramps won't be an issue correct, as long suspension remains on the ground under preload, correct?
Would the following video tutorial (IS F front bar install), be similar for installing the OEM ISF front bar in the 2006 - 2008 IS 350 RWD ?
Would the following video tutorial (IS F front bar install), be similar for installing the OEM ISF front bar in the 2006 - 2008 IS 350 RWD ?
Last edited by ELexis; 08-31-21 at 01:38 AM.
#28
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Apologies for not inquiring in previous post however, does the shape of the sway bar (several bends vs. being straight), provide different handling characterizes (Oversteer / Understeer etc.), when installed in either the IS F (heavier due to the 5.0) or IS 350 (lighter due to the 3.5)? Or is the shape not relevant to a vehicles handling, and is shaped due to it being made to fit in a particular vehicle due to clearance issues?
Think of breaking a wheel lug nut loose using a 1ft long breaker bar. With the bar at 3 or 9 o'clock (90°) to the earth you can stand on it apply say 200 ft pounds of force if you weigh 200 lbs.
However, connect that same bar at the 5 o'clock angle and your effective force is significantly reduced. The same applies to the pivot point and end links on the anti-sway bar..
People lower their rides and wonder why they don't handle as well. Assuming their dampers/springs are setup right, they need to shorten the end links so the bar mount to end link intersection is parallel to the ground just like the breaker bar forming a 90° angle to the earth.
That said you can also de-tune an over aggressive bar by changing its angle moving it from that 90° setup.
Installing the front sway bar with the use of ramps won't be an issue correct, as long suspension remains on the ground under preload, correct?
Would the following video tutorial (IS F front bar install), be similar for installing the OEM ISF front bar in the 2006 - 2008 IS 350 RWD ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMA7Ldw_cgA
Would the following video tutorial (IS F front bar install), be similar for installing the OEM ISF front bar in the 2006 - 2008 IS 350 RWD ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMA7Ldw_cgA
Also, If using polyurethane bar mounts, apply silicone grease so they don't squeak later in life.
#29
The bends really don't matter. In all cases it's spring, a bar or hollow bar made of spring steel. It's effectiveness comes from the cross sectional area of the bar and how it's heat treated combined with the distance from the mount to the pivots.
Think of breaking a wheel lug nut loose using a 1ft long breaker bar. With the bar at 3 or 9 o'clock (90°) to the earth you can stand on it apply say 200 ft pounds of force if you weigh 200 lbs.
However, connect that same bar at the 5 o'clock angle and your effective force is significantly reduced. The same applies to the pivot point and end links on the anti-sway bar..
People lower their rides and wonder why they don't handle as well. Assuming their dampers/springs are setup right, they need to shorten the end links so the bar mount to end link intersection is parallel to the ground just like the breaker bar forming a 90° angle to the earth.
That said you can also de-tune an over aggressive bar by changing its angle moving it from that 90° setup.
Just make sure the chassis is level from side to side in relation to the tires or connecting the last end link will be impossible.
Also, If using polyurethane bar mounts, apply silicone grease so they don't squeak later in life.
Think of breaking a wheel lug nut loose using a 1ft long breaker bar. With the bar at 3 or 9 o'clock (90°) to the earth you can stand on it apply say 200 ft pounds of force if you weigh 200 lbs.
However, connect that same bar at the 5 o'clock angle and your effective force is significantly reduced. The same applies to the pivot point and end links on the anti-sway bar..
People lower their rides and wonder why they don't handle as well. Assuming their dampers/springs are setup right, they need to shorten the end links so the bar mount to end link intersection is parallel to the ground just like the breaker bar forming a 90° angle to the earth.
That said you can also de-tune an over aggressive bar by changing its angle moving it from that 90° setup.
Just make sure the chassis is level from side to side in relation to the tires or connecting the last end link will be impossible.
Also, If using polyurethane bar mounts, apply silicone grease so they don't squeak later in life.
Thank you! So performing the sway bar installation using ramps shouldn't be an issue, correct?