Anyone try an ISF front sway bar on an IS350?
08-31-21, 06:00 PM
#31
And to confirm, installing the sway bar and end links using ramps won't be an issue, correct?
Last edited by ELexis; 08-31-21 at 06:03 PM.
09-25-21, 10:49 AM
#32
Wanted to follow up and thank everyone for providing the additional information to assist with successfully replacing the front OEM sway bar with the IS F bar (Part # 48811530700).
I performed the process using ramps. I'm sure amount of clearance would depend on the size of individual performing the install as well.
Removed the front protective splash shield (removed several 10 mm screws. May want to tape the screws to location removed from on the splash shield for easy install later).
- Then removed the 10mm bolt holding the small plastic sway bar splash shield in place. Once removed, you will need to pull down on the splash shield to remove, due to plastic tab holding it in place. Tab remained functional and did not break. While on the driver's side. I removed the 10mm nut holding the ride height sensor assembly to the sway bar. May need to spray with PB Blaster spray. Once removed, let assembly hang.
- Then tried to remove the 17mm bolt holding the end link to the frame on the driver side. Was difficult, so as 2013FSport had suggested, sprayed with PB Blaster penetrating catalyst spray. Let it soak while I tried to remove the 17mm bolt holding the end link on the passenger's side. Same thing, so again used the PB Blaster penetrating catalyst spray. Returned to the driver's side and was able to now remove the 17mm bolt holding the end link! I thought I might have had to wait longer, but that PB spray works fast! Returned to the passenger side and was now able to remove that 17mm bolt as well! I was using new end links (Part # 4881053010 Left & 4882053010 Right), so I left the existing end link attached to the sway bar. I also ordered 4 new 17mm end link nuts (Part # 90178A0080), just in case the existing 17mm bolts became rounded, lost etc.
- Then removed the14mm bolts holding the bushing brackets in place. Those were easily removed. Take care once you have one side loosened, the sway bar may come down while loosing the opposite side. Once free, carefully removed the existing bar so not to pull on any wires etc. Removing the bar was not difficult.
- Then installed the 2 new end links onto the new IS F sway bar, then the 2 new sway bar bushings (Part # 4881553060), paying attention where the cut in the bushing had been facing on the sway bar removed and installed the same way. I then installed the IS F sway bar assembly. It wasn't difficult with the end links attached. Once in place, lined up the end links then the sway bar bushing rackets and tightened all bolts. Then re-installed the plastic end link splash guards.
DON"T FORGET TO REATTCH THE RIDE HEIGHT SENSOR TO THE IS F SWAY BAR ON THE DRIVER SIDE BEFORE INSTALLING THE UNDERBODY SPLASH SHIELD
I performed the process using ramps. I'm sure amount of clearance would depend on the size of individual performing the install as well.
Removed the front protective splash shield (removed several 10 mm screws. May want to tape the screws to location removed from on the splash shield for easy install later).
- Then removed the 10mm bolt holding the small plastic sway bar splash shield in place. Once removed, you will need to pull down on the splash shield to remove, due to plastic tab holding it in place. Tab remained functional and did not break. While on the driver's side. I removed the 10mm nut holding the ride height sensor assembly to the sway bar. May need to spray with PB Blaster spray. Once removed, let assembly hang.
- Then tried to remove the 17mm bolt holding the end link to the frame on the driver side. Was difficult, so as 2013FSport had suggested, sprayed with PB Blaster penetrating catalyst spray. Let it soak while I tried to remove the 17mm bolt holding the end link on the passenger's side. Same thing, so again used the PB Blaster penetrating catalyst spray. Returned to the driver's side and was able to now remove the 17mm bolt holding the end link! I thought I might have had to wait longer, but that PB spray works fast! Returned to the passenger side and was now able to remove that 17mm bolt as well! I was using new end links (Part # 4881053010 Left & 4882053010 Right), so I left the existing end link attached to the sway bar. I also ordered 4 new 17mm end link nuts (Part # 90178A0080), just in case the existing 17mm bolts became rounded, lost etc.
- Then removed the14mm bolts holding the bushing brackets in place. Those were easily removed. Take care once you have one side loosened, the sway bar may come down while loosing the opposite side. Once free, carefully removed the existing bar so not to pull on any wires etc. Removing the bar was not difficult.
- Then installed the 2 new end links onto the new IS F sway bar, then the 2 new sway bar bushings (Part # 4881553060), paying attention where the cut in the bushing had been facing on the sway bar removed and installed the same way. I then installed the IS F sway bar assembly. It wasn't difficult with the end links attached. Once in place, lined up the end links then the sway bar bushing rackets and tightened all bolts. Then re-installed the plastic end link splash guards.
DON"T FORGET TO REATTCH THE RIDE HEIGHT SENSOR TO THE IS F SWAY BAR ON THE DRIVER SIDE BEFORE INSTALLING THE UNDERBODY SPLASH SHIELD
Last edited by ELexis; 09-25-21 at 06:54 PM.
The following users liked this post:
2013FSport (09-26-21)
03-19-23, 09:49 AM
#33
Follow up with regard to current vehicle handling characteristics.
Vehicle has the F-Sport rear sway bar (PTR02-53080) installed, IS F OEM sway bar (48811530700) installed, Michelin Pilot Sport All Season (AS) 3 + in front, and Michelin Pilot Sport AS 4 in rear (the front Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + appear to have a thinner sidewall compared to the Pilot Sport AS in Rear).
Issue being experienced is when vehicle is at a stop, and when beginning to make a turn, if the slightest bit of additional acceleration is applied, the rear breaks loose. Wondering if perhaps it may be due to the tires used in the rear, due to the combination of the larger front / rear stabilizer bars installed or something else being overlooked. To the best of my recollection, I don't recall this issue prior however, may have just overlooked.
Vehicle has the F-Sport rear sway bar (PTR02-53080) installed, IS F OEM sway bar (48811530700) installed, Michelin Pilot Sport All Season (AS) 3 + in front, and Michelin Pilot Sport AS 4 in rear (the front Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + appear to have a thinner sidewall compared to the Pilot Sport AS in Rear).
Issue being experienced is when vehicle is at a stop, and when beginning to make a turn, if the slightest bit of additional acceleration is applied, the rear breaks loose. Wondering if perhaps it may be due to the tires used in the rear, due to the combination of the larger front / rear stabilizer bars installed or something else being overlooked. To the best of my recollection, I don't recall this issue prior however, may have just overlooked.
03-27-23, 05:28 PM
#34
Appears my issue is due to tires only having about 5/32 tread remaining! I honestly believe to have had much more tread remaining. By chance, do vehicles with a staggered wheel size experience tread wear faster than vehicles that don't have staggered wheel sizes (front / rear)?
Am considering replacing with Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS / RE980AS + or Michelin Pilot Sport AS 4,.
Am considering replacing with Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS / RE980AS + or Michelin Pilot Sport AS 4,.
04-02-23, 08:09 AM
#35
Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS Plus tires have been installed and seem to ride fine, but still believe the vehicle should handle somewhat better. Confirmed that vehicles with a staggered tire size (225-40 R18 Front & 255-40 R18 Rear), for example, tend to wear out faster than the manufacturer specs (50,000), due to tires not being able to rotate front to rear and vice versa, only rotated left to right.
I also thought perhaps that installing the Redline 57904 GL-5 75W-90 gear oil (additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required) may be causing an issue however, previously confirmed this is fine per Redline technical department (Redline did suggest the 50104 GL-5 75W-85 viscosity however, stated using the 75W90 would not cause any issues but may see a slight fuel penalty. Also stated that the 75W-85 offered the same protection as the 75W-90). May just use the Redline 50104 GL-5 75W-85 for next fluid change. I understand manufactures have been reducing drive train fluid viscosities to improve their CAFÉ (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) to improve / increase vehicle MPG rating.
I now accept that this may be just how this vehicle handles.
I also thought perhaps that installing the Redline 57904 GL-5 75W-90 gear oil (additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required) may be causing an issue however, previously confirmed this is fine per Redline technical department (Redline did suggest the 50104 GL-5 75W-85 viscosity however, stated using the 75W90 would not cause any issues but may see a slight fuel penalty. Also stated that the 75W-85 offered the same protection as the 75W-90). May just use the Redline 50104 GL-5 75W-85 for next fluid change. I understand manufactures have been reducing drive train fluid viscosities to improve their CAFÉ (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) to improve / increase vehicle MPG rating.
I now accept that this may be just how this vehicle handles.
04-03-23, 01:54 PM
#36
Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS Plus tires have been installed and seem to ride fine, but still believe the vehicle should handle somewhat better. Confirmed that vehicles with a staggered tire size (225-40 R18 Front & 255-40 R18 Rear), for example, tend to wear out faster than the manufacturer specs (50,000), due to tires not being able to rotate front to rear and vice versa, only rotated left to right.
I also thought perhaps that installing the Redline 57904 GL-5 75W-90 gear oil (additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required) may be causing an issue however, previously confirmed this is fine per Redline technical department (Redline did suggest the 50104 GL-5 75W-85 viscosity however, stated using the 75W90 would not cause any issues but may see a slight fuel penalty. Also stated that the 75W-85 offered the same protection as the 75W-90). May just use the Redline 50104 GL-5 75W-85 for next fluid change. I understand manufactures have been reducing drive train fluid viscosities to improve their CAFÉ (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) to improve / increase vehicle MPG rating.
I now accept that this may be just how this vehicle handles.
I also thought perhaps that installing the Redline 57904 GL-5 75W-90 gear oil (additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required) may be causing an issue however, previously confirmed this is fine per Redline technical department (Redline did suggest the 50104 GL-5 75W-85 viscosity however, stated using the 75W90 would not cause any issues but may see a slight fuel penalty. Also stated that the 75W-85 offered the same protection as the 75W-90). May just use the Redline 50104 GL-5 75W-85 for next fluid change. I understand manufactures have been reducing drive train fluid viscosities to improve their CAFÉ (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) to improve / increase vehicle MPG rating.
I now accept that this may be just how this vehicle handles.
What kind of pressure you running front and rear?
My guess is your rear traction issue is related to the pressure being ran.
JM2C but my 225/255 stagger eats the edges of the front tires and blows the center out of the rear tires using the door nameplate pressures.
To get >40,000 miles from your tire set I suggest the following.
F = 38 - 40 PSi [protects the edges]
R = 33 - 34 PSI [protects the center from being blown out]
On the rear, it could help your traction issue too.
04-03-23, 02:48 PM
#37
Thank you for the follow up!
Previous PSI was 37 front / 40 rear (no edge or center tire wear encountered).
Current PSI is 36 Front / 39 Rear
OEM recommended PSI 35 Front / 38 Rear (RWD vehicle)
Previous PSI was 37 front / 40 rear (no edge or center tire wear encountered).
Current PSI is 36 Front / 39 Rear
OEM recommended PSI 35 Front / 38 Rear (RWD vehicle)
04-03-23, 04:21 PM
#38
Dropping the tire pressure in the rear will help your traction issue. And you said the fronts wore to quickly. Raising it will also help that.
The only consideration is if you plan to run at speed >80 mph for the day, you would want that rear pressure higher.
Adjust the car to how it is used, the recommendations are just that. A baseline for a starting point. Id guess the tires are rated to >50PSI if thst is your concern? Alignment specs are the same thing. A city car will get the best tire mileage from a different Alignment than a full highway car but people lose sight thinking pressures and alignment numbers are absolutes. They are not.
04-03-23, 05:38 PM
#39
Understood, thanks again! Stated the recommended pressures just to have them included and understand that the stated PSI by the manufacturer is just that, and will need to be adjusted according to how the vehicle is used.
Would installing the larger PTR02-53080 19 mm F Sport rear sway bar paired with the larger 48811-53070 OEM 28.6mm IS F front stabilizer bar cause additional oversteer, even if both front & rear were changed to the larger diameter?
Should I maybe install the rear 4881230400 OEM ISF 17mm stabilizer bar to see if it may alleviate some on the oversteer?
Would installing the larger PTR02-53080 19 mm F Sport rear sway bar paired with the larger 48811-53070 OEM 28.6mm IS F front stabilizer bar cause additional oversteer, even if both front & rear were changed to the larger diameter?
Should I maybe install the rear 4881230400 OEM ISF 17mm stabilizer bar to see if it may alleviate some on the oversteer?
Last edited by ELexis; 04-03-23 at 05:45 PM.
04-04-23, 11:55 AM
#40
Seriously, if you run 40 psi in the rear tires and 35 in the front, it will exasperate the oversteer tendency. If the rear sidewall is stiff, it's far less forgiving and will likely be a huge factor.
Are we talking dry smooth roads and your observing oversteer?
In short, my current setup if I stood on the throttle with the wheels straight on flat level road, 50% of the time, both tires hook and it launches. The other times, Trac off, the right rear smokes.
If turning left, the left smokes.
If turning right, the right smokes.
In a 270° sweeper 25 mph corner, its sticks to 75 / 80 mph but thats right on the edge in this corner. Thats front and rear F-Sport bars with a 2013 F-Sport 350 chassis running 33 to 34 psi rear pressure to give it more grip.
Are we talking dry smooth roads and your observing oversteer?
In short, my current setup if I stood on the throttle with the wheels straight on flat level road, 50% of the time, both tires hook and it launches. The other times, Trac off, the right rear smokes.
If turning left, the left smokes.
If turning right, the right smokes.
In a 270° sweeper 25 mph corner, its sticks to 75 / 80 mph but thats right on the edge in this corner. Thats front and rear F-Sport bars with a 2013 F-Sport 350 chassis running 33 to 34 psi rear pressure to give it more grip.
04-04-23, 03:26 PM
#42
Again thank you for the follow up and providing additional information. I appreciate it.
Apologies for not previously stating that the oversteer is experienced when vehicle is on dry / smooth road surface.
Is it confirmed that the the rear 4881230400 OEM ISF 17mm stabilizer bar will fit the IS 350 (I assumed it would without confirming).
Apologies for not previously stating that the oversteer is experienced when vehicle is on dry / smooth road surface.
Is it confirmed that the the rear 4881230400 OEM ISF 17mm stabilizer bar will fit the IS 350 (I assumed it would without confirming).
04-04-23, 03:51 PM
#43
You need the mounting bushings. IIRC the mounting caps are the same for 2011 - 2013 ISX50 and 2011 up IS-F. Only the bushing changes.
Also keep in mind that you can tune the bar by shortening/lengthening the bar ends. Or even spacing the bar down.
Is your car lowered or using none OEM springs?
Also keep in mind that you can tune the bar by shortening/lengthening the bar ends. Or even spacing the bar down.
Is your car lowered or using none OEM springs?