SwedeMetal

Doing my first OC this weekend.

I ordered 10 OEM washers and 10 K&N 7023 filters.

Going to buy Mobil1 5'ers from Walmart for $22 each.

Google tells me 6.7Q is needed for the IS350 2008 RWD.

Can I put in SEVEN QUARTS or must I peg for 6.7Q? If I need exactly 6.7Q what are you guys using to measure out those extra 1.7Q after dumping in a whole 5'er?

Is it worth it in any capacity to use 5w20 vs 5w30 or should I just stick to 5w30?

I have owned car for 3 weeks now, 89K miles on it and drives like a dream.

20LS01

Stick to what the engine spec'ed for in 2008. I think that is 5w-30. They recommend 5w-20 now for mpg purposes. 5w-30 will provide same if not better protection.

Put in 6 quarts initially, then run the engine for a minute, shut off engine, wait a few minutes and check dipstick and add if needed. You never want to add the recommend amount because you never know how completely it drained out. The actual amount of oil drained will depend on how the car is lifted.

Eduskator

Don't put 7 quart at first. Put a little less than 7, warm it up, let the oil settle down and check it.

There's always some old oil left in the engine and you don'T want to start draining the extra oil if you put too much...

TSB states 5w20, but you can put 5w30 as indicated on your oil cap.

5w20 will improve MPG by being thinner while 5w30 will improve engine protection by being thicker.

SwedeMetal

Thanks, gents.

I think I will go with 5w30 for overall "protection" versus any sort of miniscule MPG gains I might see with 5w20. I live in Arizona and it's about to get hotter than Satan's *** crack in a few weeks.

As for getting the tweener measurements of .5q and .7q, are you cats just using a leftover 1Q bottle and marking with a Sharpie where the .5q and .7q levels are? Dump out of a fresh 5'ver into a 1Q bottle to get your marks?

Eduskator

Just pour in 6 or 6.5qt, start the car, let it idle 1-2 minutes, let it cool down 5 mins and check the oil level (on a flat surface, of course).

Pour extra oil (small quantity) if needed and keep on checking the dipstick until you reach top level. Doesn't really bother if you pour in a little too much, but try not.

I did my oil change last weekend and it took 6.5qts to reach top level of dipstick while it was supposed to take 6.7 (same as yours because I have an AWD) so you'll be safer by starting with 6 or 6.5 qt.

SwedeMetal

Cool! curiously - what type/grade of oil and what filter r u using?

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Mobil 1 5w-30 full syn and OEM oil filters every 10k miles.

Eduskator

Whatever known brand syntetic oil is on sale when it comes to do my oil change...

I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 last weekend when I did mine. Car is running smooth, MPG increased.

It's roughly 100$ of oil + filter when you do it yourself (In Canada, I must precise), but you can manage to save 20-30$ if you get a deal.

Tungstn-IS

I've been doing the same since day 1 and it's still chugging along great.

I also just do like a lot of people have already mentioned. Put in 6qts, settle it out, then go based off the dipstick from there.

SwedeMetal

I used Penz in the Honda but I'm going to switch to Mobil1 for the IS350.

I got the appropriate K&N filters for just $4.90 each since I bought 10 online (free ship no tax) and I can get a big 5'ver of Mobil1 5w30 for just $22 bucks @ ****mart here in the states.

So I'm at $4.40 per quart for the oil, $4.90 for the filter plus .80 cents for new washer each time. Call it $30 on oil and $6 on filter/washer. 36 bucks for a top quality oil filter and the real deal mobil1? NO BRAINER. Dealer wants $120 for synth change and I have no clue what they would use. Indy shop wanted $90 to do mine with Mobil1.

DIY wins again, I'll be changing out the juice this weekend! Thanks for the suggestions.

SwedeMetal

I just did my first oil change on Sunday on my '08 IS350. The light on dash was starting to tell me to change it so I went ahead and did so. I then reset the light after the job was done, updated the computer and recorded it in my log book (aka analog paper and pen.) =)

I think I'm just going to stick to 5K OCI's even though I'm using synthetic... I'm sure 7,500 or 10K would be acceptable but I'm just gonna do it every 5K - it's cheap enough and not very time consuming.

Coming off of an Accord, this oil job is easier than it was on my Honda. Jack point is just in front of the oil pan and I used a Pittsburgh low profile 2.5 ton jack and put stands at the corners behind wheels. Key to doing the change is a GOOD JACK! Harbro Freight is the place to go, and the jack I used was just perfect for the job. In fact, the jack ended up just below where the oil filter drains so I just put my rectangular drain bucket right on top of jack!

I bought two 5Q bottles of M1 5w30 from Wal-Mart for $22 each (very cheap!)

I did a full drain and then poured in the first entire 5Q bottle of Mobil1 5w30. I then drew a line on that now empty 5Q container at exactly where 1.7Q is (using the lines in between each Q mark divided up into 10th's and marking at 7/10th) and filled up to the line I drew pouring from the other 5Q jug. After putting in the 5q plus the 1.7Q, I drove car around 5 min, came back, checked level - perfect. 90,100 miles and the ride is running beautifully.

I have 3.3Q left over in one of the 5'vers so It's ALMOST enough to do 2 more full oil changes with only having to buy a new 5Q each time.