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If the oil is surrounding the outside of the spark plug, you need a valve cover gasket kit with tube seals. If the oil is on the business end of the plug, inside the cylinder, you have mechanical engine issues. (broken or worn piston ring(s), hole in piston, excessively worn valve guide and or seal...)
I'm pretty sure you just need a new cover gasket though...
That plug you unplugged and that cylinder type thing you pulled out is the spark plug lead boot. The fact that they are oil saturated means they need replaced as well now. The easiest way to get the oil out is with compressed air and a rag. Try to stuff an end of the rag down in the hole to soak up most of it. If you don't have access to compressed air, you can just use a lot of paper towels. Just slip one end of the towel down there and keep enough out that you can pull the towel back out. Just keep soaking and you eventually get it all out. A small amount in the cylinder won't hurt a thing. But you'll need to replace those tube seals and valve cover gasket or you'll keep leaking oil onto the new plugs and wires, eventually coming back to square one.
Go to the parts store and get:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Valve cover gasket set with spark plug tube seals
RTV grey silicone for corners of gasket (if you don't have some already and the gasket kit doesn't come with some)
Anti-seize for threads of spark plugs
Dielectric grease for spark plug boots
Job done!
I have some arguments against Oil on the sparkplug threads regarding the bad piston ring. It can be due to the PCV valve system. If you install an oil catch can the oil will not go through intake manifolds through cylinders to the sparkplugs and pushed into the threads. Yea if the oil is outside coming from the seals of the valve cover you will be able to see on the top. So the point is oil on the spark plug threads does not mean a seal or piston issue. Just put an oil catch can. When people floor the engine PCV throws oil vapors more than usual through intake hence can drench sparkplug threads. Add oil catch can should solve the issue..
I have some arguments against Oil on the sparkplug threads regarding the bad piston ring. It can be due to the PCV valve system. If you install an oil catch can the oil will not go through intake manifolds through cylinders to the sparkplugs and pushed into the threads. Yea if the oil is outside coming from the seals of the valve cover you will be able to see on the top. So the point is oil on the spark plug threads does not mean a seal or piston issue. Just put an oil catch can. When people floor the engine PCV throws oil vapors more than usual through intake hence can drench sparkplug threads. Add oil catch can should solve the issue..
Although I don't contest what you wrote, lets get clear here. There is an added ingredient missed by many. Combustion gasses from an improperly seated plug can do the same exact thing. Add deposits to the ground strap AND turn the plugs threads black...
Most think this is oil blow by but it is not. It is the combustion gasses condensed into a tar like substance that made their way up the plugs threads when the plug was not seated properly.
Her from my 53,000 weesix 350 is plug #5 that was not seated correctly. Notice the ground strap deposits and blackish threads. A failed plug install.
Just sayin, there can be other reasons.... they don't have to be oil burners for this to happen. To your point, Yoda screwed up the valve cover design as oil vapors stand minimal chance of dropping out of vapor suspension, and not going back to the crankcase. Like, once on the ski slope, it's not easy to turn back.
Thank you sickpuppy for posting the information regarding the use of anti seize compound on spark plugs (REPLY #4). If the plug is metal, it is recommended not to use anti-seize on the threads. Anti-seize compound is only recommended for use on "black treaded " non metallic plugs. The nickel coating on most modern spark plugs provides added protection from seizing in aluminum cylinder heads and has made anti-seize less important in spark plug installations. Anti-seize can alter the tightening torque up to 20%, increasing the risk of breakage. It can also create heat transfer and electrical conductivity concerns.
Has anyone encountered a situation where a spark plug was literally "caked" in oil when swapping them out? Is this at all related to this issue or is it a way bigger.
Has anyone encountered a situation where a spark plug was literally "caked" in oil when swapping them out? Is this at all related to this issue or is it a way bigger.
What portion of the spark plug are you talking about exactly? Depending on where the oil is found on the plug, it can literally mean two TOTALLY different things.
Although I don't contest what you wrote, lets get clear here. There is an added ingredient missed by many. Combustion gasses from an improperly seated plug can do the same exact thing. Add deposits to the ground strap AND turn the plugs threads black...
Most think this is oil blow by but it is not. It is the combustion gasses condensed into a tar like substance that made their way up the plugs threads when the plug was not seated properly.
Her from my 53,000 weesix 350 is plug #5 that was not seated correctly. Notice the ground strap deposits and blackish threads. A failed plug install.
Just sayin, there can be other reasons.... they don't have to be oil burners for this to happen. To your point, Yoda screwed up the valve cover design as oil vapors stand minimal chance of dropping out of vapor suspension, and not going back to the crankcase. Like, once on the ski slope, it's not easy to turn back.
I'd like to add something here because this is the first thread that pops up on Google when I type in my car model and problem.
I am in the process of troubleshooting it now..
The problem seems to be common on many Lexus and Toyota models - Oil on spark plug threads for cylinder #5. Mine got so bad it caused misfire and engine to shake upon acceleration.
First time changing the plugs on my car I also noticed oil on cylinder 5 (factory plugs).
This time I left my plugs in there for much longer with NGK Ruthenium plugs. I got a code P0305 and engine starts to studder whenever I accelerate/ push gas pedal in gear (with load). Now when I pulled plug #5 the threads are completely coated in what looks like oil.
I don't know whats causing the problem yet but I don't think it's coincidence that so many Toyota/Lexus have the same problem.
I happened to come across the following. Can the "fifth cylinder issue" stated in passage be confirmed as a known 2GR-FSE, issue or just a possibility it may occur, and cause oil to be seen on #5 plug as norakat was inquiring about. Also, how can one tell what years had which 2GR-FE/FSE engine is Revision 1 / 2 / 3?
Toyota conducted a recall campaign for cars with 2GR-FE and 2GR-FSE produced until 2010. The reason for that became a problem with an oil leak from the rubber hose which feeds the VVT-i lubrication system. The manufacturer replaced that rubber part by a metal pipe.
If the 2GR engine has a damaged cylinder wall surface, the entire cylinder block has to be replaced. The thin walls of the cylinder liners make the engine impossible to bore the block. The liners itself are cast into the aluminum engine block. The 2GR-FSE engine features the overheating of the fifth cylinder. That is caused by the design flaw. The problem leads to high oil consumption at first and scratches appearance on cylinder wall later. If you read above, now you know the expensive end of that story.
The all GR family has a common problem with unreliable water pump and ignition coils. In some cases, they don't last longer than 30-50k miles, and that is very annoying. The 2GR-FE has longevity about 200,000 miles (300,000 km). The 2GR-FSE and 2GR-FKS engines are more technologically advanced, powerful, and fuel efficient but less reliable.
11748245[/url]]I happened to come across the following. Can the "fifth cylinder issue" stated in passage be confirmed as a known 2GR-FSE, issue or just a possibility it may occur, and cause oil to be seen on #5 plug as norakat was inquiring about. Also, how can one tell what years had which 2GR-FE/FSE engine is Revision 1 / 2 / 3?..
That’s interesting. Thanks for pointing this out. I have a gen 6 / 2016 Lexus ES350.
Some other things I am reading about are faulty gaskets on the Spark Plug tube and valve cover and also things related to the PCV system.
04-17-23, 05:45 PM
