Oil on spark plug threads
#1
Oil on spark plug threads
Just changed my spark plugs at 147k, the last time i changed it was about 70k.
So i noticed that the driver side closest to rear spark plug has oil on the threads. I checked with light and can see some oil inside the tube. I think i also noticed that the inside below the spark plug tube was dark orange, like it was dried up oil, but not sure if the other ones looked like that too.
From what i searched, it looks like it is probably valve cover gasket and/or spark plug gasket.
Can anyone confirm this? or have any tips on changing them, etc. i am going to try and change the them both this weekend.
This is a spark plug from the front side of engine.
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This is the spark plug closest to driver, as it has oil on the threads.
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<br >
So i noticed that the driver side closest to rear spark plug has oil on the threads. I checked with light and can see some oil inside the tube. I think i also noticed that the inside below the spark plug tube was dark orange, like it was dried up oil, but not sure if the other ones looked like that too.
From what i searched, it looks like it is probably valve cover gasket and/or spark plug gasket.
Can anyone confirm this? or have any tips on changing them, etc. i am going to try and change the them both this weekend.
This is a spark plug from the front side of engine.
<br >
<br >
This is the spark plug closest to driver, as it has oil on the threads.
<br >
<br >
Last edited by Deathrow23; 06-17-16 at 01:54 PM.
#2
i found this for you !
If the oil is surrounding the outside of the spark plug, you need a valve cover gasket kit with tube seals. If the oil is on the business end of the plug, inside the cylinder, you have mechanical engine issues. (broken or worn piston ring(s), hole in piston, excessively worn valve guide and or seal...)
I'm pretty sure you just need a new cover gasket though...
That plug you unplugged and that cylinder type thing you pulled out is the spark plug lead boot. The fact that they are oil saturated means they need replaced as well now. The easiest way to get the oil out is with compressed air and a rag. Try to stuff an end of the rag down in the hole to soak up most of it. If you don't have access to compressed air, you can just use a lot of paper towels. Just slip one end of the towel down there and keep enough out that you can pull the towel back out. Just keep soaking and you eventually get it all out. A small amount in the cylinder won't hurt a thing. But you'll need to replace those tube seals and valve cover gasket or you'll keep leaking oil onto the new plugs and wires, eventually coming back to square one.
Go to the parts store and get:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Valve cover gasket set with spark plug tube seals
RTV grey silicone for corners of gasket (if you don't have some already and the gasket kit doesn't come with some)
Anti-seize for threads of spark plugs
Dielectric grease for spark plug boots
Job done!
If the oil is surrounding the outside of the spark plug, you need a valve cover gasket kit with tube seals. If the oil is on the business end of the plug, inside the cylinder, you have mechanical engine issues. (broken or worn piston ring(s), hole in piston, excessively worn valve guide and or seal...)
I'm pretty sure you just need a new cover gasket though...
That plug you unplugged and that cylinder type thing you pulled out is the spark plug lead boot. The fact that they are oil saturated means they need replaced as well now. The easiest way to get the oil out is with compressed air and a rag. Try to stuff an end of the rag down in the hole to soak up most of it. If you don't have access to compressed air, you can just use a lot of paper towels. Just slip one end of the towel down there and keep enough out that you can pull the towel back out. Just keep soaking and you eventually get it all out. A small amount in the cylinder won't hurt a thing. But you'll need to replace those tube seals and valve cover gasket or you'll keep leaking oil onto the new plugs and wires, eventually coming back to square one.
Go to the parts store and get:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Valve cover gasket set with spark plug tube seals
RTV grey silicone for corners of gasket (if you don't have some already and the gasket kit doesn't come with some)
Anti-seize for threads of spark plugs
Dielectric grease for spark plug boots
Job done!
#3
Pole Position
i found this for you !
If the oil is surrounding the outside of the spark plug, you need a valve cover gasket kit with tube seals. If the oil is on the business end of the plug, inside the cylinder, you have mechanical engine issues. (broken or worn piston ring(s), hole in piston, excessively worn valve guide and or seal...)
I'm pretty sure you just need a new cover gasket though...
That plug you unplugged and that cylinder type thing you pulled out is the spark plug lead boot. The fact that they are oil saturated means they need replaced as well now. The easiest way to get the oil out is with compressed air and a rag. Try to stuff an end of the rag down in the hole to soak up most of it. If you don't have access to compressed air, you can just use a lot of paper towels. Just slip one end of the towel down there and keep enough out that you can pull the towel back out. Just keep soaking and you eventually get it all out. A small amount in the cylinder won't hurt a thing. But you'll need to replace those tube seals and valve cover gasket or you'll keep leaking oil onto the new plugs and wires, eventually coming back to square one.
Go to the parts store and get:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Valve cover gasket set with spark plug tube seals
RTV grey silicone for corners of gasket (if you don't have some already and the gasket kit doesn't come with some)
Anti-seize for threads of spark plugs
Dielectric grease for spark plug boots
Job done!
If the oil is surrounding the outside of the spark plug, you need a valve cover gasket kit with tube seals. If the oil is on the business end of the plug, inside the cylinder, you have mechanical engine issues. (broken or worn piston ring(s), hole in piston, excessively worn valve guide and or seal...)
I'm pretty sure you just need a new cover gasket though...
That plug you unplugged and that cylinder type thing you pulled out is the spark plug lead boot. The fact that they are oil saturated means they need replaced as well now. The easiest way to get the oil out is with compressed air and a rag. Try to stuff an end of the rag down in the hole to soak up most of it. If you don't have access to compressed air, you can just use a lot of paper towels. Just slip one end of the towel down there and keep enough out that you can pull the towel back out. Just keep soaking and you eventually get it all out. A small amount in the cylinder won't hurt a thing. But you'll need to replace those tube seals and valve cover gasket or you'll keep leaking oil onto the new plugs and wires, eventually coming back to square one.
Go to the parts store and get:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Valve cover gasket set with spark plug tube seals
RTV grey silicone for corners of gasket (if you don't have some already and the gasket kit doesn't come with some)
Anti-seize for threads of spark plugs
Dielectric grease for spark plug boots
Job done!
#5
Don't think they cost that much if you do it on your own or an independent shop, avoid dealership, they will suck your blood till dead.
Last edited by RandyIS250; 06-18-16 at 06:19 AM.
#6
Pole Position
Thanks man,greatly appreciated,let me ask you this,i saw a 2008 LEXUS LS460 L with the EXECUTIVE package,(rear seats reclines,etc) with 208,000 miles,didnt get a chance to test drive it yet,test drove another 08 and it drove really great,smooth,comfortable ride with plenty of power, but when i started it up,the one with 208,000 miles it really sounded good,purred like a kitten, but the 208,000 miles is my real concern,there selling it for $10,900,i can probably get them to even lower the price even more,but my real concern is,how many more miles do you think i can actually get out of it,saw the carfax it was maintained on a regular basis.Im like,great price,definitely a great vehicle,whats your opinion????
Last edited by steelers6; 06-18-16 at 09:09 PM.
#7
Pole Position
Thanks man,greatly appreciated,let me ask you this,i saw a 2008 LEXUS LS460 L with the EXECUTIVE package,(rear seats reclines,etc) with 208,000 miles,didnt get a chance to test drive it yet,test drove another 08 and it drove really great,smooth,comfortable ride with plenty of power, but when i started it up,the one with 208,000 miles it really sounded good,purred like a kitten, but the 208,000 miles is my real concern,there selling it for $10,900,i can probably get them to even lower the price even more,but my real concern is,how many more miles do you think i can actually get out of it,saw the carfax it was maintained on a regular basis.Im like,great price,definitely a great vehicle,whats your opinion????
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#8
the only people don't know about car will worry about Mileage and scare of used car, i never bought brand new car for myself
My 2001 TRD Toyota Solara is 230k miles now, no electrical problem nor trans and engine, car still drives perfect fast and straight, i got 2 Toyota Solara 5 cars in the house other Solara was my Dad he left country and no parking space so i got rid of it, the car still drive great, his is 1999 but damn engine and trans will never break. I ABUSED DRIVING ON THESE 2 Solara i hope they break down so MY WIFE WILL LET ME BUY LEXUS, Happy Wife Happy Life ! LOL eventually i got the IS250 AWD almost 2 years ago, cause my dad left.
Bro my IS250 is a high mileage not a new car 190k miles on it, when i got the car the car was crap, 1st thing to do when u buy used Lexus/toyota is change all Fluids and Engine oil all around, Front Trans case rear Diff Case Transmission fluid, use Mobile 1 Synthetic oil 10-30W for high mileage engine, the right engine oil is 5-30W but thats for new car, always remember USE ONLY DEALERSHIP FLUID or MOBILE 1 Equivalent type, use brake Fluid from dealership too, only Engine oil can be used with MOBILE 1 Synthetic 10-30W.
i'm not Pro to automotive my primary job is building WHEELCHAIR i work for "Invacare" USA and Canada, automotive job is only weekend, my co-worker always asks me why my 16 years old Toyota Solara quiet and drive like new, i told them KNOWLEDGE is Power ! i had my Solara for 13 years straight without any problem except the MASTER Cylinder had internal leak but that's only braking system, i replaced from scrap yard for 40$ easy job.
i only used Mobile 1 synthetic 10-30w since i bought the car, only Toyota Transmission fluid once a year no matter what, i do Transmission fluid change every winter i will not remember the mileage just do it once a year, Engine oil every 3000 miles with Mobile 1 synthetic.
The is250 has automate system for oil maintenance but F that i put it in my head, even the Diff and Trans Case fluid for lexus + transmission fluid i do it once a year as well, my is250 trans shifting is rough and surging they called it gear hunting,
its a long story, i gone back home (Asia) for 5 months and my mom and sister were driving my is250, they brought to a nearby shop for Trans fluid change as i told them before i left for vacation, what they did was they refilled the fluid they did not drain it all out and they overfilled, i just got back last month drove the car and the gear shift was even rougher and gear hunting, the car shift even worst than a STANDARD transmission, asked mom and sister they told me ya they did the trans fluid,
that was the reason i am now on this forum for clues, my brother and friend told me my Transmission is SHOT and need new one because they said you already did the fluid and its like that, last week i went to a guy that far far away from my house, he checked the fluid and said your fluid hasn't done bro, that when we found out other guy refilled and overfilled, my transmission is now smooth like you licking t i t s, yep drained out all old fluid and left it for 1 hour before refilling the new fluid, trans very smooth now no jumpy surging or hunting. anyways good luck with the LS bro, i would say buy it.
Last edited by RandyIS250; 06-19-16 at 07:47 AM.
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firestart9 (03-12-23)
#9
Pole Position
Thanks man,im really considering buying,the LS 460 L with 208,000,even though it purred like a kitten when i started it i noticed the AC wasnt blowing out as cold as it should,could just be it needs more freon or a new compressor,dont think that will be a deal breaker,still gotta test drive it,this particular dealership will even let me take the car so i can have it checked out by a mechanic,great thing in my opinion,I'll definitely follow ur advise on ALL the fluid changes,etc...I know thats real important especially on a high mileage car,i even found out this particular 460,the rear seats recline,its something called the EXECUTIVE PACKAGE,real cool,thanks again man,i really appreciate it...
Last edited by steelers6; 06-19-16 at 09:11 AM.
#10
Thanks man,im really considering buying,the LS 460 L with 208,000,even though it purred like a kitten when i started it i noticed the AC wasnt blowing out as cold as it should,could just be it needs more freon or a new compressor,dont think that will be a deal breaker,still gotta test drive it,this particular dealership will even let me take the car so i can have it checked out by a mechanic,great thing in my opinion,I'll definitely follow ur advise on ALL the fluid changes,etc...I know thats real important especially on a high mileage car,i even found out this particular 460,the rear seats recline,its something called the EXECUTIVE PACKAGE,real cool,thanks again man,i really appreciate it...
#11
Pole Position
Best motor oil
In your opinion whats the BEST motor oil i should use in a 2007 Lexus LS 460 L with 208,000 miles,Im familiar with MOBIL 1 but I've been reading that REDLINE,AMSOIL,ROYAL PURPLE are even superior to MOBIL I,because which ever brand oil i use i will use that brand not only for my oil but for all of my other fluids....Thanks in advance...
#12
In your opinion whats the BEST motor oil i should use in a 2007 Lexus LS 460 L with 208,000 miles,Im familiar with MOBIL 1 but I've been reading that REDLINE,AMSOIL,ROYAL PURPLE are even superior to MOBIL I,because which ever brand oil i use i will use that brand not only for my oil but for all of my other fluids....Thanks in advance...
Some people don't know about High Mileage Engine and Brand new car, they look up online and follow others, no no no your car is different than mine, maybe your car has low mileage and mine is like 200k miles, for your high mileage car use 5-30w in the winter and 10-30w in the summer Yes Mobile 1 SYn oil all the way bro. reason why Toyota Lexus don't use 10-30w because it's expensive try 10-30 now and you know what im saying hey change all fluids and transmission fluid after you get your car eh bro.
#13
Pole Position
Great info man,i hear all this great stuff about the other brand oils i mentioned and how there suppose to be better than MOBIL 1 then i ask myself, doesnt NASCAR use MOBIL 1,i think that really says it all about which oil is really superior,thanks again man and enjoy your LEXUS...
#14
Great info man,i hear all this great stuff about the other brand oils i mentioned and how there suppose to be better than MOBIL 1 then i ask myself, doesnt NASCAR use MOBIL 1,i think that really says it all about which oil is really superior,thanks again man and enjoy your LEXUS...
#15
Amsoil vs Mobile 1
I've been running Mobile 1 in my 2008 GS350 AWD since I bought it 4 years ago. I recently decided to change to Amsoil for all my fluids. I was hesitant at first but talking to a few people, mechanics included, they said that its a preference but Amsoil was above Mobile 1, which it has been pretty good for me so far. Does anyone have advice of which is better to use, Mobile 1 or Amsoil?