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Thanks for the write-up. I have a 2007 IS250 and plan to take on this project soon. I have been researching it and this is the first write-up that I have come across that seems very useful. I had a question that you may or may not know, is it possibly to install a ISF clutch kit on a IS250? Or do you think just going with an aftermarket clutch kit for the IS250 will be sufficient enough?
Thanks for the write-up. I have a 2007 IS250 and plan to take on this project soon. I have been researching it and this is the first write-up that I have come across that seems very useful. I had a question that you may or may not know, is it possibly to install a ISF clutch kit on a IS250? Or do you think just going with an aftermarket clutch kit for the IS250 will be sufficient enough?
Bird, the ISF was automatic-only, unless there are aftermarket conversions you're referring to.
Yeah, unfortunately Lexus USA discontinued the F-Sport clutch kit last year. That said, it wasn't anything super special, it included a stock unsprung disc and a slightly heavier pressure plate. If you are going with a single-mass flywheel such as this, I would not recommend an unsprung disc, get something dampened for sure. The SPEC SLC251 (Stage 1) pressure plate is basically equivalent to the F-Sport pressure plate, both offering approximately 15% additional clamping force over the stock pressure plate.
So I'm at the point where I'm ready to put my transmission in. I keep getting stuck and there's literally a 1in. gap in between the bellhouse and the transmission. No way I can make it close the gap. I'm thinking I messed up using the alignment tool and that's why I can't get it in the rest of the way? How did you manage to align the clutch disk? I took mine out and I swear there was no pilot bearing on the engine. Where yours is in the picture, I had nothing for the alignment tool to center with. I did get one with my clutch kit, but didn't put it in since I never took one out. Pictures are what I'm talking about.
Aisin clutch kit with a fidanza flywheel if that helps?
Update: My buddy told me if it was installed by the factory/dealer, they can align everything themselves without the bearing. Took my clutch and flywheel off and installed the bearing. Centered everything and the transmission went in smooth as butter lol. Going to finish her up later today and test this new flywheel/clutch out.
Any tips on removing the clutch release fork pivot pin? I removed the c-clip off the bottom of the pivot pin but I cannot tap the pivot pin upwards, it will not budge. Clutch release fork as seen thru the drive side access panel which is on the tranny. The pivot pin won’t move upwards after removing the c-clip, ideas?
Last edited by JohnHo14; 10-27-18 at 01:23 AM.
Reason: Add picture
For what it's worth, the input shaft bearing is not needed, nor is a clutch alignment tool. The pressure plate and clutch disc are intended to be slid onto the input shaft of the transmission and then it is all installed in a single step. The pressure plate is then bolted down through the inspection covers.
It can be done using an alignment tool if the pilot bearing is installed and you install the clutch fork afterwards, but it's not the typical method used.
Thanks Jeff, did you replace the clutch and flywheel yourself and go thru the process of removing the clutch release fork?
I am trying to swap the engine and have to remove the transmission. I am having trouble with the clutch release pin after removing the E-clip. Same as you. I can’t get inside to tap the pin upwards, it’s stuck in there pretty good. Any advice?
I am trying to swap the engine and have to remove the transmission. I am having trouble with the clutch release pin after removing the E-clip. Same as you. I can’t get inside to tap the pin upwards, it’s stuck in there pretty good. Any advice?
Got it. Took a lot of effort because everything was rusted internally. Just had to keep wiggling it until it broke free.
Glad it worked for you Novelty22 but I was not as fortunate,
OK, so to reiterate I was unable to get the pivot pin out of the cutch release fork after removing the C-clip from the bottom of the pivot pin. This pivot pin and clutch release fork are accessible thru the driver side access panel on the transmission. So I had to find an alternative method.
So what I did was to remove the six bolts on the pressure plate. These six bolts on the pressure plate are also accessible thru the same driver side access panel. You will have to rotate the crankshaft bolt at the front of the engine located right near the oil filter and this will rotate the pressure plate because you can only get to one bolt at a time thru the access panel on the tranny. After removing these 6 bolts, I then pried the pressure plate away from the flywheel using a pry bar because the flywheel has three pins that slide into the pressure plate but they got rusted together for me. I was then able to slide the tranny away from the engine. Doing it this way, the pressure plate and release fork also came along with the tranny, but it worked since everything was disconnected from the flywheel. Again, I only had to do it this way because I could not get the pivot pin out of the clutch release fork. Obviously, if you can get the pivot pin out of the clutch release fork, that is the easier way to go, but my pivot pin would not nudge for the life of it.
So, now I got everything apart and wil be reassembling everything. I will be using OEM parts and sticking with the OEM dual mass flywheel which I found online for $1400.00.
Last edited by JohnHo14; 10-28-18 at 05:02 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Glad it worked for you Novelty22 but I was not as fortunate,
OK, so to reiterate I was unable to get the pivot pin out of the cutch release fork after removing the C-clip from the bottom of the pivot pin. This pivot pin and clutch release fork are accessible thru the driver side access panel on the transmission. So I had to find an alternative method.
So what I did was to remove the six bolts on the pressure plate. These six bolts on the pressure plate are also accessible thru the same driver side access panel. You will have to rotate the crankshaft bolt at the front of the engine located right near the oil filter and this will rotate the pressure plate because you can only get to one bolt at a time thru the access panel on the tranny. After removing these 6 bolts, I then pried the pressure plate away from the flywheel using a pry bar because the flywheel has three pins that slide into the pressure plate but they got rusted together for me. I was then able to slide the tranny away from the engine. Doing it this way, the pressure plate and release fork also came along with the tranny, but it worked since everything was disconnected from the flywheel. Again, I only had to do it this way because I could not get the pivot pin out of the clutch release fork. Obviously, if you can get the pivot pin out of the clutch release fork, that is the easier way to go, but my pivot pin would not nudge for the life of it.
So, now I got everything apart and wil be reassembling everything. I will be using OEM parts and sticking with the OEM dual mass flywheel which I found online for $1400.00.
That was going to be route I was looking at taking. Decided to fight with it a little longer and eventually the pin got through the rust and came out. Sorry you didn’t have the same luck, hope everything is smooth sailing from here on out!
So what I did was to remove the six bolts on the pressure plate. These six bolts on the pressure plate are also accessible thru the same driver side access panel. You will have to rotate the crankshaft bolt at the front of the engine located right near the oil filter and this will rotate the pressure plate because you can only get to one bolt at a time thru the access panel on the tranny. After removing these 6 bolts, I then pried the pressure plate away from the flywheel using a pry bar because the flywheel has three pins that slide into the pressure plate but they got rusted together for me. I was then able to slide the tranny away from the engine. Doing it this way, the pressure plate and release fork also came along with the tranny, but it worked since everything was disconnected from the flywheel. Again, I only had to do it this way because I could not get the pivot pin out of the clutch release fork. Obviously, if you can get the pivot pin out of the clutch release fork, that is the easier way to go, but my pivot pin would not nudge for the life of it.
Yup, unbolting the pressure plate from the flywheel is the official way to do it.
12-08-17 | 03:27 PM
