2009 Lexus IS250 (Need Help ASAP)
02-04-17, 08:57 AM
#16
By any chance did you have the ELF recall performed? How long ago if so? Trying to notice a trend here, noticed a a couple people chiming in about the fuel pressure sensors lately. Anyways, if you can't get someone to sell you the newer part number sensor without the fuel rail (89458-30011), you can still buy the original fuel pressure sensor (part number 89458-30010) which can be had for $30 on eBay either new or used from various sellers.
Here's a DIY provided by the NHSTA (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/c...4V647-0774.pdf and if that link doesn't work, try https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...4V647-1275.pdf). Little rundown with some tips: Intake manifold, throttle body (just release the 4 10mm screws, don't unhook the pipes) and tubing need to come off. Take pictures of the vacuum hoses if you don't think you'll remember where to plug them back in at. Windshield cowl does not need to come off unless you want to take it off for more room. Most are 10mm bolts/screws, but on the intake manifold, there are quite a few 5mm hex screws. I'd definitely recommend getting a long 5mm hex key to reach the screw nearest the firewall otherwise turning a 1/4 of a turn with a standard size hex key is no fun. You also may need to disconnect the fuel line in the back. The fuel pressure sensor itself is 24mm, so get a good open 24mm wrench to take it off. When putting the new sensor on, either get a new fuel pressure sensor gasket (90430-12026) or reuse your old one (I'd just grab a new one, they're pretty cheap). You absolutely NEED to spin the harness with the sensor, otherwise you will risk twisting the wires and breaking them. As for the torquing part... eh, I'd recommend it, but you can get away with putting it a bit tighter than what it was when you took it off (Don't hulk tighten it or you will deform the gasket and it will leak). Pando 39C spray is not necessary. Put everything back together and see if it starts (may take a try or two). This is a good time to replace your intake manifold and throttle body gaskets if they've never been done before (for future reference, if anyone with a 350 asks, replacing these shouldn't be necessary if you had the vvt actuator recall performed as they are supposed to replace these gaskets during that time). I'd also recommend wiping off your throttle body while you're in there too if it hasn't been cleaned lately.
I just went through this myself on my 350 a couple weeks ago (believe I posted about it on here somewhere), ended up buying the 89458-30010 part because I really didn't want to slap down $300+ for the sensor and a rail that I did not need. Works great now.
Posted this in the wrong thread originally. Don't post when tired.
Here's a DIY provided by the NHSTA (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/c...4V647-0774.pdf and if that link doesn't work, try https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...4V647-1275.pdf). Little rundown with some tips: Intake manifold, throttle body (just release the 4 10mm screws, don't unhook the pipes) and tubing need to come off. Take pictures of the vacuum hoses if you don't think you'll remember where to plug them back in at. Windshield cowl does not need to come off unless you want to take it off for more room. Most are 10mm bolts/screws, but on the intake manifold, there are quite a few 5mm hex screws. I'd definitely recommend getting a long 5mm hex key to reach the screw nearest the firewall otherwise turning a 1/4 of a turn with a standard size hex key is no fun. You also may need to disconnect the fuel line in the back. The fuel pressure sensor itself is 24mm, so get a good open 24mm wrench to take it off. When putting the new sensor on, either get a new fuel pressure sensor gasket (90430-12026) or reuse your old one (I'd just grab a new one, they're pretty cheap). You absolutely NEED to spin the harness with the sensor, otherwise you will risk twisting the wires and breaking them. As for the torquing part... eh, I'd recommend it, but you can get away with putting it a bit tighter than what it was when you took it off (Don't hulk tighten it or you will deform the gasket and it will leak). Pando 39C spray is not necessary. Put everything back together and see if it starts (may take a try or two). This is a good time to replace your intake manifold and throttle body gaskets if they've never been done before (for future reference, if anyone with a 350 asks, replacing these shouldn't be necessary if you had the vvt actuator recall performed as they are supposed to replace these gaskets during that time). I'd also recommend wiping off your throttle body while you're in there too if it hasn't been cleaned lately.
I just went through this myself on my 350 a couple weeks ago (believe I posted about it on here somewhere), ended up buying the 89458-30010 part because I really didn't want to slap down $300+ for the sensor and a rail that I did not need. Works great now.
Posted this in the wrong thread originally. Don't post when tired.
Last edited by Zmon; 05-15-18 at 01:24 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Zmon:
messenger1 (01-28-21),
mkansari00 (02-25-18)
02-04-17, 10:57 AM
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
Zmon thanks for the info really appreciate it will do this task just have to find the fuel pressure sensor since lexus doesn't have it in Stock as of right now yea I had that recall done back in 2/25/16 and surprisingly it's February and now it's acting up
02-04-17, 02:15 PM
#18
Here's the 30010 part number on eBay, supposedly new from China (link). There's a US seller selling one for 27.99 but it's a used one (link). I bought from the 27.99 guy originally, said it was new, recently changed their listing to say "reman'd" when the one I received def wasn't new, probably didn't want people complaining about it like I did. It works fine though, and if it does go bad, I know how to take it off again.
edit: Gotten a few PM's from a few diff people and some have said they had issues with theirs at the 1 year mark after the ELF recall too... Hmm..
edit: Gotten a few PM's from a few diff people and some have said they had issues with theirs at the 1 year mark after the ELF recall too... Hmm..
Last edited by Zmon; 02-04-17 at 04:19 PM.
02-04-17, 02:20 PM
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
Zmon thanks really appreciate I called toyota and they have it in Stock but they told me that that part# does not fit on the lexus they don't cross reference numbers but it's a fuel pressure sensor and I called lexus for that part number said they don't have that part # but they sale it with the fuel rail and will cost $755 for fuel rail with that sensor I was like do u just sale the sensor they said they don't sale it separately thanks will be ordering it tru Ebay
02-04-17, 05:48 PM
#20
Driver
Thread Starter
Is there another part # cause I called servco toyota and they said that part doesn't exist but I called the toyota center and they do have it but they don't sale to customers they only sale to retail
02-25-18, 06:22 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Zmon, thanks for the reply on replacing pressure sensor on IS250. If you could add the Torque pressure of Manifold Bolts (what size the bolts are) so it is with in recommended limits.
04-10-19, 05:30 AM
#22
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Labor Cost for Fuel Pressure Sensor Replacement
Here's the 30010 part number on eBay, supposedly new from China (link). There's a US seller selling one for 27.99 but it's a used one (link). I bought from the 27.99 guy originally, said it was new, recently changed their listing to say "reman'd" when the one I received def wasn't new, probably didn't want people complaining about it like I did. It works fine though, and if it does go bad, I know how to take it off again.
edit: Gotten a few PM's from a few diff people and some have said they had issues with theirs at the 1 year mark after the ELF recall too... Hmm..
edit: Gotten a few PM's from a few diff people and some have said they had issues with theirs at the 1 year mark after the ELF recall too... Hmm..
09-02-19, 09:37 PM
#23
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Hello my Gs stalled out on me on the highway and won’t star.Took it to Lexus they said my fuel pump sensor is not working and it contaminated my fuel.They can’t explain how my fuel pressure sensor can contaminate my fuel. They want to charge me to drop my fuel tank get rid of fuel,but how can a fuel pressure sensor contaminate your fuel. Seems like you know what your talking about.Hope you have some suggestions for me.
09-03-19, 05:41 AM
#24
Just now saw this post $250 seems a little high as it only take about an hour to do the replacement
09-03-19, 05:46 AM
#25
Hello my Gs stalled out on me on the highway and won’t star.Took it to Lexus they said my fuel pump sensor is not working and it contaminated my fuel.They can’t explain how my fuel pressure sensor can contaminate my fuel. They want to charge me to drop my fuel tank get rid of fuel,but how can a fuel pressure sensor contaminate your fuel. Seems like you know what your talking about.Hope you have some suggestions for me.
09-19-19, 09:13 PM
#26
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. I guess the service writer explained it incorrectly,seems like some how my fuel was contaminated and caused my fuel pump sensor to fail.I ended up reporting it to my insurance company as a vandalism claim.I don’t know what happened,I think the dealer miss diagnosed my car as bad fuel,then said my bad fuel contaminated my fuel pump sensor.I think it was just my fuel pump sensor that went. Oh well my insurance company covered it,of course with my 500$deductible.thsnk you Ira Lexus inDanver Massachusetts won’t ever go back there again.thank you Mason123 for your info and response
02-03-21, 10:29 AM
#27
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By any chance did you have the ELF recall performed? How long ago if so? Trying to notice a trend here, noticed a a couple people chiming in about the fuel pressure sensors lately. Anyways, if you can't get someone to sell you the newer part number sensor without the fuel rail (89458-30011), you can still buy the original fuel pressure sensor (part number 89458-30010) which can be had for $30 on eBay either new or used from various sellers.
Here's a DIY provided by the NHSTA (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/c...4V647-0774.pdf and if that link doesn't work, try https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...4V647-1275.pdf). Little rundown with some tips: Intake manifold, throttle body (just release the 4 10mm screws, don't unhook the pipes) and tubing need to come off. Take pictures of the vacuum hoses if you don't think you'll remember where to plug them back in at. Windshield cowl does not need to come off unless you want to take it off for more room. Most are 10mm bolts/screws, but on the intake manifold, there are quite a few 5mm hex screws. I'd definitely recommend getting a long 5mm hex key to reach the screw nearest the firewall otherwise turning a 1/4 of a turn with a standard size hex key is no fun. You also may need to disconnect the fuel line in the back. The fuel pressure sensor itself is 24mm, so get a good open 24mm wrench to take it off. When putting the new sensor on, either get a new fuel pressure sensor gasket (90430-12026) or reuse your old one (I'd just grab a new one, they're pretty cheap). You absolutely NEED to spin the harness with the sensor, otherwise you will risk twisting the wires and breaking them. As for the torquing part... eh, I'd recommend it, but you can get away with putting it a bit tighter than what it was when you took it off (Don't hulk tighten it or you will deform the gasket and it will leak). Pando 39C spray is not necessary. Put everything back together and see if it starts (may take a try or two). This is a good time to replace your intake manifold and throttle body gaskets if they've never been done before (for future reference, if anyone with a 350 asks, replacing these shouldn't be necessary if you had the vvt actuator recall performed as they are supposed to replace these gaskets during that time). I'd also recommend wiping off your throttle body while you're in there too if it hasn't been cleaned lately.
I just went through this myself on my 350 a couple weeks ago (believe I posted about it on here somewhere), ended up buying the 89458-30010 part because I really didn't want to slap down $300+ for the sensor and a rail that I did not need. Works great now.
Posted this in the wrong thread originally. Don't post when tired.
Here's a DIY provided by the NHSTA (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/c...4V647-0774.pdf and if that link doesn't work, try https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...4V647-1275.pdf). Little rundown with some tips: Intake manifold, throttle body (just release the 4 10mm screws, don't unhook the pipes) and tubing need to come off. Take pictures of the vacuum hoses if you don't think you'll remember where to plug them back in at. Windshield cowl does not need to come off unless you want to take it off for more room. Most are 10mm bolts/screws, but on the intake manifold, there are quite a few 5mm hex screws. I'd definitely recommend getting a long 5mm hex key to reach the screw nearest the firewall otherwise turning a 1/4 of a turn with a standard size hex key is no fun. You also may need to disconnect the fuel line in the back. The fuel pressure sensor itself is 24mm, so get a good open 24mm wrench to take it off. When putting the new sensor on, either get a new fuel pressure sensor gasket (90430-12026) or reuse your old one (I'd just grab a new one, they're pretty cheap). You absolutely NEED to spin the harness with the sensor, otherwise you will risk twisting the wires and breaking them. As for the torquing part... eh, I'd recommend it, but you can get away with putting it a bit tighter than what it was when you took it off (Don't hulk tighten it or you will deform the gasket and it will leak). Pando 39C spray is not necessary. Put everything back together and see if it starts (may take a try or two). This is a good time to replace your intake manifold and throttle body gaskets if they've never been done before (for future reference, if anyone with a 350 asks, replacing these shouldn't be necessary if you had the vvt actuator recall performed as they are supposed to replace these gaskets during that time). I'd also recommend wiping off your throttle body while you're in there too if it hasn't been cleaned lately.
I just went through this myself on my 350 a couple weeks ago (believe I posted about it on here somewhere), ended up buying the 89458-30010 part because I really didn't want to slap down $300+ for the sensor and a rail that I did not need. Works great now.
Posted this in the wrong thread originally. Don't post when tired.
I went to the NOLA dealership and theyre telling me to replace my fuel rail and sensor for a total price of 1800 with labor! Suffice it to say I had my car towed elsewhere. I am trying to figure out if which of the two parts you listed is the one that I need. I am also trying to figure out what the difference is between a fuel rail and fuel sensor. Sorry even though I love my lexus, Im a newbie when it comes to car mechanics. FYI, I did have the fuel sensor recall done in 2015.
02-03-21, 04:02 PM
#28
Zmon, I found your extremely helpful post thru a google search because my 2008 IS 250 is having similar problems. I was hoping to send you a private message to further discuss how you fixed this but I just created my profile and am not sure if that is possible.
I went to the NOLA dealership and theyre telling me to replace my fuel rail and sensor for a total price of 1800 with labor! Suffice it to say I had my car towed elsewhere. I am trying to figure out if which of the two parts you listed is the one that I need. I am also trying to figure out what the difference is between a fuel rail and fuel sensor. Sorry even though I love my lexus, Im a newbie when it comes to car mechanics. FYI, I did have the fuel sensor recall done in 2015.
I went to the NOLA dealership and theyre telling me to replace my fuel rail and sensor for a total price of 1800 with labor! Suffice it to say I had my car towed elsewhere. I am trying to figure out if which of the two parts you listed is the one that I need. I am also trying to figure out what the difference is between a fuel rail and fuel sensor. Sorry even though I love my lexus, Im a newbie when it comes to car mechanics. FYI, I did have the fuel sensor recall done in 2015.
02-17-21, 12:35 PM
#29
Zmon, I found your extremely helpful post thru a google search because my 2008 IS 250 is having similar problems. I was hoping to send you a private message to further discuss how you fixed this but I just created my profile and am not sure if that is possible.
I went to the NOLA dealership and theyre telling me to replace my fuel rail and sensor for a total price of 1800 with labor! Suffice it to say I had my car towed elsewhere. I am trying to figure out if which of the two parts you listed is the one that I need. I am also trying to figure out what the difference is between a fuel rail and fuel sensor. Sorry even though I love my lexus, Im a newbie when it comes to car mechanics. FYI, I did have the fuel sensor recall done in 2015.
I went to the NOLA dealership and theyre telling me to replace my fuel rail and sensor for a total price of 1800 with labor! Suffice it to say I had my car towed elsewhere. I am trying to figure out if which of the two parts you listed is the one that I need. I am also trying to figure out what the difference is between a fuel rail and fuel sensor. Sorry even though I love my lexus, Im a newbie when it comes to car mechanics. FYI, I did have the fuel sensor recall done in 2015.
The fuel rail shouldn't need to be replaced. I know there's the JLF recall that replaces the fuel delivery pipe with a new one and updated dampeners if you haven't done that yet.
02-17-22, 10:43 AM
#30
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11 is the newer part number. 10 is the older part number. You will have to replace the gasket as well. The 11's have significantly dropped in price since I first posted about this years ago, but they're still 4x as expensive.
The fuel rail shouldn't need to be replaced. I know there's the JLF recall that replaces the fuel delivery pipe with a new one and updated dampeners if you haven't done that yet.
The fuel rail shouldn't need to be replaced. I know there's the JLF recall that replaces the fuel delivery pipe with a new one and updated dampeners if you haven't done that yet.
How did you all remove the bolt on the back of the surge tank? I can get a wrench on it but cannot break it loose, as I have little leverage.
Thanks