IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Replaced alternator and car wont crank!

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Old 05-08-17, 06:19 PM
  #31  
loydd24
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Thanks for the help guys, boomer I'll try that in the morning thanks
Old 05-08-17, 06:44 PM
  #32  
leoferus
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Let's start with the simply things:
- You're reading 12v at the battery.
- You've got good ground.

If your answer is "yes" then try the following (from the Lexus RM) and report:
(a) Shift lever is in the P position.
(b) Open and close the driver's door with the engine switch off. Check if the engine can be started.
OK:
Engine can be started.
HINT:
After the battery is discharged and then recharged, the engine may not start unless the steering lock is initialized using the above procedure.
Old 05-08-17, 06:46 PM
  #33  
leoferus
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10.8v is close to "no go" in Toyota land. Get it to 12v, and initialize the steering lock ECU.
Old 05-08-17, 07:49 PM
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loydd24
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10.8 was at the fusible link I was getting 12.30 at the battery, is there any way I can check the power at the starter?
Old 05-09-17, 04:24 AM
  #35  
leoferus
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Key off, engine off, you should read battery voltage or very close to it everywhere that there should be battery voltage. If you do not, there's voltage drop. If you don't know how to confirm that your ground from the battery is good you need to find someone that can. Either voltage drop test, resistance, or continuity test should do. I am, unfortunately/fortunately, conditioned to check the basics and never continue unless I have those numbers. We can be chasing ghosts if we carry on without confirming that your ground is good.

If you want to skip steps, try the steering lock ECU initialization procedure I posted earlier. If that doesn't work, go on guessing until I get off work ;-)
Old 05-09-17, 07:00 AM
  #36  
loydd24
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Thanks I'll check that now Leo, I'm going to charge my battery and re check voltages. I just don't see how my ground could go bad after replacing the alternator although I don't want to rule anything out until after I check it.
Old 05-09-17, 07:11 AM
  #37  
4TehNguyen
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just because a battery says 12.3V doesnt mean it has the cranking amps to start a car. Can get a local autozone to do a load test on the battery
Old 05-09-17, 07:14 AM
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loydd24
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Right, but if I get a jump it should start right?
Old 05-09-17, 07:23 AM
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flynryan
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I was sitting in my car for about 15min listening to my stereo waiting for something and my battery died (aftermarket stereo system). Had my son come jump me with his focus and it would only click the solenoid everytime I attempted to crank the motor. Only until he ran the rpm up to 3k did it crank over so keep that in mind as well.
Old 05-09-17, 07:55 AM
  #40  
loydd24
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I'm showing 0.00 resistance at the battery ground however the voltage on my battery drops significantly low
Old 05-09-17, 08:06 AM
  #41  
loydd24
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I'm also now getting 12.38 at the fusible link and 12.40 at the battery
Old 05-09-17, 02:23 PM
  #42  
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Codes
Old 05-09-17, 05:10 PM
  #43  
srt1
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Throttle pos sensor.Having these all go out possibly a short somewhere?
Old 05-09-17, 05:12 PM
  #44  
Arrta
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P0121 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Range/Performance Problem - http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0121
P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High Input - http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0123
P2135 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation - http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P21...ge-correlation

Seems to be a trend.
Old 05-09-17, 07:25 PM
  #45  
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Right but Ive had the check engine light for a while not sure if those are new or not. I also don't know where I'd start or even to go at this point.


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