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2006 IS350 AC has never been serviced. Works fine but I figured over the last 11 years it probable lost a little R134A. So I decided to check temps, pressure and top up the system. Didn't find anything of substance on the forum so here are a few pictures to help someone get started. This by no means is a guide. The AC Vent Temp was around 66 Deg F and after the procedure fell to around 55 Deg F. For a more comprehensive guide check Chrisfix or Ericthecarguy on Youtube.
Step 1: Remove engine covers.
2006 IS350 Engine
Step 2: Locate both High Side and Low Side valves.
Lexus IS350 AC High Side Valve location Lexus IS350 AC Low Side Valve location
Step 3: Connect gauges. Make sure they are all closed.
Lexus IS350 AC High Side Connection Lexus IS350 AC Low Side Connection Lexus IS350 AC High/Low Connected
Step 4: Start Car and turn on AC, let car run until both fans are going to get a good reading.
Lexus IS350 AC Low Side 32 PSI. High Side 190 PSI.
Step 5: Added some R134A with engine running.
Lexus IS350 R134A top up.
Ambient temp was approx 90 Deg F. With engine running added R134A until PSI increased on Low Side from 45-55 PSI and on High Side from 250 - 275 PSI.
Lexus IS350 AC final pressure. Final Pressure after adding some R134A. Engine was at approx 2200 RPM with AC running full blast. So for the ambient temperature outside (approx. 90 deg F) the pressures were within range and the AC vent temp dropped from around 66 F to 55 F.
You can get a set of gauges at Harborfreight on sale/coupon for under $50. R134A was $5 at Walmart. Just wanted a plain refrigerant with no oil or dyes in it.
2006 IS350 AC has never been serviced. Works fine but I figured over the last 11 years it probable lost a little R134A. So I decided to check temps, pressure and top up the system. Didn't find anything of substance on the forum so here are a few pictures to help someone get started. This by no means is a guide. The AC Vent Temp was around 66 Deg F and after the procedure fell to around 55 Deg F. For a more comprehensive guide check Chrisfix or Ericthecarguy on Youtube.
Step 1: Remove engine covers.
2006 IS350 Engine
Step 2: Locate both High Side and Low Side valves.
Lexus IS350 AC High Side Valve location Lexus IS350 AC Low Side Valve location
Step 3: Connect gauges. Make sure they are all closed.
Lexus IS350 AC High Side Connection Lexus IS350 AC Low Side Connection Lexus IS350 AC High/Low Connected
Step 4: Start Car and turn on AC, let car run until both fans are going to get a good reading.
Lexus IS350 AC Low Side 32 PSI. High Side 190 PSI.
Step 5: Added some R134A with engine running.
Lexus IS350 R134A top up.
Ambient temp was approx 90 Deg F. With engine running added R134A until PSI increased on Low Side from 45-55 PSI and on High Side from 250 - 275 PSI.
Lexus IS350 AC final pressure. Final Pressure after adding some R134A. Engine was at approx 2200 RPM with AC running full blast. So for the ambient temperature outside (approx. 90 deg F) the pressures e within range and the AC vent temp dropped from around 66 F to 55 F.
You can get a set of gauges at Harborfreight on sale/coupon for under $50. R134A was $5 at Walmart. Just wanted a plain refrigerant with no oil or dyes in it.
I bought a small can of oil /sealer stuff I was going to add with the R134A. Don't bother? Also, you speak of the outside temp in relation to pressures, where is the values for this located, in the box with the tool? Another poster said something about oil in the compressor, is there a port for that? I had to dislodge all the R134A to change the damaged condenser (which bent on impact but didn't leak.i was just gonna fill it and go but I was directed to read this post by another member.
Was saying read up on the process. Not necessarily a specific post in this forum.
On this compressor I am not sure how you accurately check the oil level. That said it is good to know your system hasn't been exposed for weeks. On this aged system I would still replace the dryer. Look on rock auto. Its cheap. Try to only open the system on low humidity days and minimize the time the system is exposed to the atmosphere. Empty oil, fill w oil, replace condensor, install new dryer, pull a vacuum for several hours and then refill to specified weight R134A.
Look up R-134A temperature pressure chart. You'll find ambient temps and correlated low side / high side pressures. This is a guide only. Lexus likely has some published values specific to this car. On that note they also list the exact charge volume by weight.
As for the above post, do not turn the can upside down like that as you risk slugging the compressor with liquid. When filling a system the pump pumps vapor only. Turning the can upside down can allow liquid (a solid) into the low side suction side and liquid does not compress. This can destroy a pump!
Place the R134A in warm water to keep it from freezing. It will empty the can at a controlled rate.
Was saying read up on the process. Not necessarily a specific post in this forum.
On this compressor I am not sure how you accurately check the oil level. That said it is good to know your system hasn't been exposed for weeks. On this aged system I would still replace the dryer. Look on rock auto. Its cheap. Try to only open the system on low humidity days and minimize the time the system is exposed to the atmosphere. Empty oil, fill w oil, replace condensor, install new dryer, pull a vacuum for several hours and then refill to specified weight R134A.
Look up R-134A temperature pressure chart. You'll find ambient temps and correlated low side / high side pressures. This is a guide only. Lexus likely has some published values specific to this car. On that note they also list the exact charge volume by weight.
As for the above post, do not turn the can upside down like that as you risk slugging the compressor with liquid. When filling a system the pump pumps vapor only. Turning the can upside down can allow liquid (a solid) into the low side suction side and liquid does not compress. This can destroy a pump!
Place the R134A in warm water to keep it from freezing. It will empty the can at a controlled rate.
see, this is why there could be no car without this forum, and would be at the mercy of the stealership. thank god for people like you who know without question wtf they are talking about, thank you for taking the time to give these answers. i wish there was like a reward system you could give like .21 bitcoin or something because id drop it in a heart beat. thanks man having said all that, i think im gonna drop the cash and let a pro handle this one, screw this lol
see, this is why there could be no car without this forum, and would be at the mercy of the stealership. thank god for people like you who know without question wtf they are talking about, thank you for taking the time to give these answers. i wish there was like a reward system you could give like .21 bitcoin or something because id drop it in a heart beat. thanks man having said all that, i think im gonna drop the cash and let a pro handle this one, screw this lol
good choice. This is one I leave to someone with the right tools too. I’ve screwed up too many systems not getting it right as a DIY.
As for the above post, do not turn the can upside down like that as you risk slugging the compressor with liquid. When filling a system the pump pumps vapor only.
Actually, it is a pretty common practice to charge an empty system by evacuating it and then flooding liquid refrigerant in with the compressor turned off. No risk of slugging the compressor if it isn't running, and the system fills much faster this way. Once most of the refrigerant is in, start the compressor and charge the rest with vapor.
Actually, it is a pretty common practice to charge an empty system by evacuating it and then flooding liquid refrigerant in with the compressor turned off. No risk of slugging the compressor if it isn't running, and the system fills much faster this way. Once most of the refrigerant is in, start the compressor and charge the rest with vapor.
Agreed. Thread has both conditions (top off and empty fill) and I should have stated the obvious. Don't invert can when topping off the system.
Was saying read up on the process. Not necessarily a specific post in this forum.
On this compressor I am not sure how you accurately check the oil level. That said it is good to know your system hasn't been exposed for weeks. On this aged system I would still replace the dryer. Look on rock auto. Its cheap. Try to only open the system on low humidity days and minimize the time the system is exposed to the atmosphere. Empty oil, fill w oil, replace condensor, install new dryer, pull a vacuum for several hours and then refill to specified weight R134A.
You can also just buy a whole new DENSO condenser for cheap that includes a drier. I think this option is better as condensers take a beating and get fairly dirty.
update: i did this myself with a tool bought at harbor freight. i just couldnt bring myself to pay someone 200 to do it for me when as long as i followed directions and read up on it well. i put about 1tbs of oil in the house then discharged 2 cans (24ounces). i listened to what you guys posted about not tilting the can, but if i didnt the can didnt disperse any(in that liittle window on the gauge). i had to turn it upside down, but tried to bring it back to at least level so it wasn't just straight down. the air is cold enough, im just not sure how long it should take upon starting the car for the air to get cold? seems like it takes too long and that has me concerned.
i cant remember what the final values were on the high and low side, but if i recall correctly they didnt look like where they should have been, and the gauges were going haywire at some points ,like no low side and extremely high high side pressure. im thinking im gonna hook up the tool and get a reading. welcome any input.
Pull up an R134A pressure/temperature chart and match the numbers low side / high side for the ambient conditions.
As stated, placing the 134 in a container of warm water solves the icing problem so the can remains upright.
And if you didn't pull a long enough vacuum after opening the system (2 to 4 hours) the moisture inside will prevent it from ever getting and staying cold.
Honestly not sure what results you'll get throwing random oil quantities at it and a used dryer exposed to the atmosphere for months. Neither are helpful to your cause.
07-31-17, 06:20 PM
2006 IS350 AC Check and Top Up.
