IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Replaced Alternator, Now Car Won't Start. HELP!

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Old 05-28-18, 06:22 PM
  #31  
monsterfa
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Looked at your diagram.
Bare bones - do this:
Remove relay keeping pins 1 & 2 and 3 & 5 in orientation with the socket.
Ohm to ground pins 1 & 2 (socket). Determine which goes to ground (battery Neg). Meter will read like <3.0 ohms... Lets say thats pin #2. OHM pin #1, lets say thats infinite or > 1,000 ohms.
Insert your test lamp On Pin #1 attaching the other end to Ground (batt Neg). Push the start button. Does the lamp light??? If yes, Great News, you narrowed the problem to the starter or wire to the solenoid. If no, tow it to Lexus.

TEST #2
Key On, meter set to vdc or test lamp, connect meter or lamp to ground. Probe socket pins 3 & 5. One should have 12vdc. The other nothing. Let say the nothing side is pin 5.
Set meter to Ohms. Ohm pin 5 to ground. It should be like 5 to 20 ohms. If its not, you likely knocked the wire loose installing the alternator.

If it has like 5 ohms of resistance, use a small jumper wire into pin 5, tap the wires other end to battery plus +12. What do you hear? Does it click? Does the starter turn the engine over?

Thats the basics. Let us know what you find.
So I applied power to solenoid and cranked the engine the starters turns over but will not start. So wire to the solenoid must be the issue... Not getting power to the starter...
Old 05-28-18, 07:23 PM
  #32  
2013FSport
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Turn the key on and try it again.
NO!
That says the solenoid wire, solenoid, starter, battery and cable are all fine. It says the interlock electronics between pushing the button and delivering energy to that purple relay have failed.


You put the test light on the socket? If it lights when start button is pushed, you lost ground.
Does it have ground? No ground and the relay wont work.
Please read those posts again.

Last edited by 2013FSport; 05-28-18 at 07:28 PM.
Old 06-07-18, 12:24 PM
  #33  
monsterfa
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Well looks like I have fried the ECM! Ugghhhh how did that happen? Anyone know what else would be needed in addition to the ECM to be replaced? I have Techstream would I be able to reprogram it or it would have to be done at the dealership?
Old 06-07-18, 01:20 PM
  #34  
2013FSport
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What lead you to beleive the ECM is bad?
Old 06-11-18, 08:17 AM
  #35  
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Well I took the car to an Auto Electric place and that's what they said. But replaced it and still no luck. Car will not communicate with obd reader or Techstream. So now I still do not know what the issue is.
Old 06-11-18, 09:04 AM
  #36  
MikeFig82
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Unplug the fuel pressure sensor. If it's bad I think that's one of the defaults. It won't communicate with the OBD port.

Since your car is a 2007 it's been happening recently to many older models.

You can search on IS250 fuel pressure sensor issues.
Old 11-05-19, 09:20 AM
  #37  
EasyCano
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Default I am having the exact same problem except my light will not turn green… Only red

Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Looks like others went down this road on other models...
Fuseable link in panel, the buss bar part. Not sure how they blew it, but worth checking...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...m-to-work.html
I have been messing with this for almost a month now and it’s driving me crazy. I have checked every single fuse including the spares LOL in all four locations, tested for continuity across the bus fuse and it seems fine, remove the battery in order to check for as well as clean any corrosion for the ground connection plus added an additional heavy gauge ground wire to a similar location just for extra measure down the road if I even keep the car and get to put a stereo in it. I have tried using the key in the trunk turning it three times I’ve tried hitting unlock twice numerous times. I even tried the key in the trunk excuse me in the door plus holding the key fob with a new battery straight up to the push to start button even though I know this wouldn’t be the issue because as long as the key is in my pocket or in the car at all everything works Seemingly normal until the second you would normally hear the engine turnover just after the pumps in gauge I’m assuming. I’ve had this happen before but one of these little annoying tricks has always been able to fix it.

update: I have been running a cheap diagnostic tool when it said check engine occasionally usually for it to say that it found one code, near hit read code and it say no DTC… Frustrating well just now it actually mentioned something about a flow or volume sensor
for a couple seconds before returning to know DTC

please please help!!!!
Old 11-05-19, 01:57 PM
  #38  
mandyfig
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Maybe time to take it to a shop...
Old 11-05-19, 08:25 PM
  #39  
EasyCano
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Default I sure hope not

Originally Posted by mandyfig
Maybe time to take it to a shop...
I Hope not. We can’t even afford the tow at the moment with a new baby on the way.
Old 11-15-19, 08:58 AM
  #40  
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**CORRECTION: No the light IS NOT Green. It stays red.... So sorry it has taken so long for me to reply we had a major family emergency. Sure i true how good and bad come in waves... I think im ready for my wave of good lol. HELP!
Old 11-15-19, 09:20 AM
  #41  
MikeFig82
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Originally Posted by EasyCano
**CORRECTION: No the light IS NOT Green. It stays red.... So sorry it has taken so long for me to reply we had a major family emergency. Sure i true how good and bad come in waves... I think im ready for my wave of good lol. HELP!

Say if you get in your car, and press the brake pedal. Do the brake lights come on?
Old 06-17-20, 07:32 PM
  #42  
4mula_J87
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Hey guys I’m having some similar problems... care to take a look at me vehicle. It only runs if I jump it. I recently replaced the alternator

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