Wilfredo

So I just replaced my alternator, charged my week old battery at autozone to 100%, hooked it back up, and when I went to turn my car on, I got power to everything but the car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even try to turn over. I can hear the fuel but nothing happens. PLEASE HELP!!

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...tart-help.html

Lou

primavera

The link above doesn't show any solution with the issue he's having.

jr4div2

Does the light on the start button turn green when you depress the brake?

Wilfredo

yea it's green

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Looks like others went down this road on other models...
Fuseable link in panel, the buss bar part. Not sure how they blew it, but worth checking...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...m-to-work.html

Wilfredo

Thanks!! I took off my new alternator again n made sure everything was plugged in and hooked up properly. Everything looked fine. Everyone is saying that the fusible link is the culprit but in the pics they posted you can see where the link blew and is disconnected. I examined mine and there is no visible disconnection where it appeares to be blown. It looks completely fine.. Does any one know how to test the fusible link so I don't have to buy a new one?

2grfan

Why not check all fuses? Maybe it's another one?

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Yes, you can test a fusible link like any other fuse. You will need a multimeter, and just simply for continuity between the two sides of the link.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Per the owners manual a visual inspection is possible too. With the cover off you can see the power comes in from the top and connects to wires headed out of box through the bottom.
I didn't want yank relays and break cover tabs on mine as its all intact.

At a quick glance those items **appear to be** hot all the time as battery goes right into that panel. Use caution or disconnect the battery ground for ohm testing or any open fuse link will put 12v across your meter.

That said, if it is hot always, with battery connected, meter set to volts DC, connect one lead to ground and with the other lead probe every connection at the bottom of the panel (wire crmp). They should all show 12v. Any that do not, the fused link is open.

Don't forget the fuses in the cockpit and over the left fender.

Attached are 2013 IS-350 right front near battery...

Wilfredo

So I checked my fusible link with a multimeter and all my other fuses. They were all good. I have no idea what to do now!��

jr4div2

So to be clear, you replaced the alternator and now when you depress the brake, the start button turns green. You press the start button and nothing, no click, no change in lights, nothing? Check your battery voltage. If that's good, you need to see if you're getting juice to the starter. One question, why did you replace the alternator? Did it fail or something? Was your battery completely discharged? If so, why? Lights left on or did something mysterious kill the battery?

Wilfredo

Here's the full story. Car died on me when I got to work. So I decided to pull the battery since autozone was near n they could charge it while I was at work. Come to find out the battery was bad. So I got a new one n hooked it up. Car started fine. Drove it. Then a couple days later it died on me on the freeway. Was able to pull over safely and get it towed to my parents house about 2 miles away. I then knew it was my alternator. So I charged my battery AGAIN( but the new one this time) autozone said it was fully charged n showing 12 volts. Hooked it up, started easily, drove it to my house so I could work on it, pulled the alternator n got it tested. Tests said it was bad so I bought a new one. Disconnected the battery. Installed the new alternator. Hooked the battery up. Pushed the button. Everything came on like normal. Depressed the brake. Green light. Pushed to start n nothing. I hear the pump n click but no crank. Checked main fuse with a multimeter n it was good. Bought a new starter relay n put it in, still same result. I even pulled the alternator off again to make sure everything was cool. I even charged the battery to 100% doing that. Still nothing. I'll try to post a video. I'm lost n frustrated now. Don't know what else to do. Thanks for everyone's help

jr4div2

Did you do this with the battery connected? If so, your multi meter might read it wrong. Based on all you're saying and everything you've done, it has to be that bus-bar fuse. Everybody I've read about having the same exact problem as you ends up finding one of the many fusible links of that fuse blown.

You also said,....

The last thing in that quote was disconnected the battery. That was after you pulled the alternator. If you actually did that in the order you say, you pulled the alternator with the batter connected. I'm pretty sure everyone that has had similar problems did the same no-no.

You're gonna have to take a leap of faith on what most people find when they replace the alternator and have starting problems after. It usually is that bus-bar fuse.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

There is one down side to using a digital meter here. It takes nothing to power them. Meaning a circuit could show potential energy of 12.7v but have no load carrying capacity. Do you have a 12v test lamp? Unlike a meter, an incandescent lamp draws current to operate. Perhaps repeat fuse test with test lamp.

Can you explain exactly what your test method was? i.e. connected and probed what and where.
Last question, did you visually inspect every fuse for opens on both engine panels?