When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well not really on fire but in my opinion close!!!
hey guys hope all is well! I have a tricky job for you guys that I could not figure out for the life of me.
2nd hand 2006 IS250 USA model
As you can see the lights are pretty damaged. A few days ago my drl stopped working then my high beams. Last night the piece of crap of a harness burned my hand it Was that hot. Checked all light related fuses. One of the 15A low beam was corroded and so was the 15A main high beam (the one in that side fuse box in compartment B)
Cleaned and replaced both. Now both lights are running fine except the harness gets really hot after 1-2 minutes on high beam. To insure the problem wasn't as grave as I though I replaced the 15A main high beam fuse with a 5A forcing it to break the fuse.......
The Car has 2 luminics 9005 65w yellows..... so 12volt x5A = 60w comparded to the combined 130watts the lights are. The fuse would not break at all.
what could be wrong with? I want to replace the harness with a more resilient wire though my 5A test has me fearing other issues.
let me know what you guys think or if I made a mistake with my test?
Also in compartment A I'm missing fuse 1 in the picture below... do I need that? And what is it for?
Driver side light insert melted Passenger side also melted Passenger harness Both 9005 luminics 65w yellow melted as well (but still work)
lso why does the owners manual say that in the clear white part has fuses but I can't see any? Oh and why is my 25A fuse one missing? Says its ABS NO.3 25A circuit: vdim
I'd say, yes, you made a mistake with your test. The 5A fuse is not enough to handle the current. As for your problem, it appears your connectors must have been corroded at some point and became ohmic. That creates a voltage drop across the two contacts and generates heat which further contributes to the problem. Once the connector gets burned, it will not recover. You simple need to replace the connectors and your bulbs since I see contacts burned on both.
I'd say, yes, you made a mistake with your test. The 5A fuse is not enough to handle the current. As for your problem, it appears your connectors must have been corroded at some point and became ohmic. That creates a voltage drop across the two contacts and generates heat which further contributes to the problem. Once the connector gets burned, it will not recover. You simple need to replace the connectors and your bulbs since I see contacts burned on both.
Therefore in theory if I replace both terminal and bulb the 5A fuse should break. Confirming the problem was just with the terminal and bulb?
also where would you suggest buying the terminal? Buy terminal only and solder in? Or buy the whole headlight harness and plug everything back in?
+1 ^^ on bulb and connector replacement.
If there is a bad fit on load bearing connections resistance will make heat and damage the mating components.
But you implied the wire was hot/melting. Hopefully you just ment the connection area?
Your 5amp fuse test is mostly valid and turned the light on. However, resistance losses in your connections limited current and reduced available amps to be delivered to the light. On an incandescent bulb it is the inrush current making the filament glow that often times pops a fuse as there is a fraction of a second where the bulbs acts like a dead short but bulbs resistance increases instantly when the filament heats and glows.
Does your ABS work? If yes and no CEL / MIL lights, there is likely another fuse doing it's job elsewhere. Mine is empty also IIRC.
+1 ^^ on bulb and connector replacement.
If there is a bad fit on load bearing connections resistance will make heat and damage the mating components.
But you implied the wire was hot/melting. Hopefully you just ment the connection area?
Your 5amp fuse test is mostly valid and turned the light on. However, resistance losses in your connections limited current and reduced available amps to be delivered to the light. On an incandescent bulb it is the inrush current making the filament glow that often times pops a fuse as there is a fraction of a second where the bulbs acts like a dead short but bulbs resistance increases instantly when the filament heats and glows.
Does your ABS work? If yes and no CEL / MIL lights, there is likely another fuse doing it's job elsewhere. Mine is empty also IIRC.
hey thanks. Not sure if my abs works actually. I've never had to press that hard. I read another thread that says it increase cornering ability? I would like a better answer if you know of any?
That whole bus bar is two strips of Fuseable links. It has a core source from the main in (Alt 150A) and branches out. Each branch can be opened if the current exceeds the value stated for too long.
Without an actual schematic of the circuit it is hard to say how many levels of protection they have in place but if you look close you notice there are several redundant fuses. The ABS3 however seems unused. Look in the bottom. Do you see contacts for the missing fuse? Nope. So it is protected elsewhere and your dash would be lit up if that systems computer were off line. It's not an issue.
But why do our petrol burning engines have relays installed for glow plugs... that's the question!??
I've never owned a vehicle that has stability control (VDIM) but having shoved the 350 through numerous corners it does it's best to prevent the car from being jacked out shape in manor so as to prevent a slide and subsequent spin or in our case a fun drift... it does this by appllying brakes to a wheel and/or diagonal braking. And if it deems itself to be completely hosed you notice it will steer the wheel also, which I found to be a very strange feeling!!! As in wanting to fix something that is not a problem / think intentional slide...
Thankfully with magic taps of E-brake and brake peddle it can be turned off and be played with properly!
That whole bus bar is two strips of Fuseable links. It has a core source from the main in (Alt 150A) and branches out. Each branch can be opened if the current exceeds the value stated for too long.
Without an actual schematic of the circuit it is hard to say how many levels of protection they have in place but if you look close you notice there are several redundant fuses. The ABS3 however seems unused. Look in the bottom. Do you see contacts for the missing fuse? Nope. So it is protected elsewhere and your dash would be lit up if that systems computer were off line. It's not an issue.
But why do our petrol burning engines have relays installed for glow plugs... that's the question!??
The glow plugs are for the is220 which is a European diesel variant.
So im confused how to access the fuses in that clear spot. Can you re explain that?
ya the track brake dance is funny but I don't think it doesn't a full turn off. Also I will check later about that fuse. Because while nothing showed in dash I still want to see if It "aids" at all in cornering.. I'll see if it has contacts.
09-01-17, 03:30 PM
Lexus lights caught on fire!
