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82ndABN, were the new vents (62930-12161) slightly different aesthetically, than the vent shown in photos? Trying to determine if perhaps Lexus has since updated that part.
I taped these vents closed completely on my ISF, and my exhaust smell issues went away. The vents are a pressure release; however, I’ve had no ill effects from just keeping them taped up. Since these don’t last long, I’ll be permanently enclosing them on both my ISF and my IS350. I also need to fix my ISF amp. I’ve parked my car in the blistering heat, slammed my doors, etc., and nothing has gone wrong or blown up. YMMV.
Has any member removed the driver side vent per video below and installed it as well without any issues? I'm unable to install new vent after removing the old vent. Vent is easy to access and remove however, installing it is something different than what the narrator states in the video posted by jizz4jazz / REPLY # 23 , "Just put it in like that and you're done". Unfortunate video didn't document the installation as well. There is a wire harness that is somewhat in the way. If it was relocated during the vent install, perhaps it would allow for more clearance. Unsure how the clips fattening harness to frame open (see 1st. & 2nd photos below). Also, would someone know the tool (manufacture / model etc.) used to remove cargo trim clip in last photo?
I found the easiest way to put in the new one was from underneath: just remove the 10 mm screw that holds the bumper cover to the fender liner, carefully pull the bumper cover away from the car, and now you'll have enough space to put in the new vents. You need to use quite some force to have it click in, but there's no big trick. I pushed in the bottom first, then the top. (If you still can't manage, you can always completely remove the bumper cover and have clean access.)
Thank you for the follow up sede7, it's appreciated. Have since confirmed the same, that only way to install the replacement vents is by removing the bumper cover (not completely, ust the three 10mm bolts per side, and no clips, if I understood the following video):
How to remove a 2010 Lexus is250 rear bumper video;
You don't need to remove all thee bolts per side just the single one at the bottom (at 1:37 in the video). That way you can carefully pull the bumper cover for the necessary space.
Thanks sede7. Was able to install the driver's side vent by removing the following; Photo 1 - Remove bottom 10mm bolt (behind rear tire) Photo 2 - Than reach between fabric lining and fender, squeezed the trim fastener and push towards me, until lose then pulled completely out Photo 3 - Then while lying underneath vehicle looking up into the quarter panel, used ratchet with long extension to remove the 10mm bolt behind fender however, turned out only needed to remove the one 10mm bolt and fastener to pull back fender (as sede7 suggested), and access the vent port opening. which is located just to the right in photo (not seen). I made sure bottom vent clips were clicked into place first then went into trunk, and used flat screwdriver (taped the tip with electrical tape to prevent scratches), and pushed on top vent taps and pried upwards until tabs fastened in place against the sheet metal. Pulled on vent to confirm vent was securely locked in place. I assume the same process can be followed for the passenger side vent, or am I incorrect???
I have no idea why you want to do all that. Stuff the new unit into the hole without removing anything. Grab the new unit from the inside and pull until you see the clips fully locked. Took me 10 minutes to do both sides using a pair of stork pliers, but you could just as easily do it with a small rope or piece of wire threaded through from the outside so you can pull from the inside. I didn't remove anything held in with a fastener, and had no problem working around the amp wiring.
I have no idea why you want to do all that. Stuff the new unit into the hole without removing anything. Grab the new unit from the inside and pull until you see the clips fully locked. Took me 10 minutes to do both sides using a pair of stork pliers, but you could just as easily do it with a small rope or piece of wire threaded through from the outside so you can pull from the inside. I didn't remove anything held in with a fastener, and had no problem working around the amp wiring.
Thanks lobuxracer. I think I understand what your explaining with using stork or needle nose pliers to push new vent into place from inside the trunk. I would need to see a visual to be certain I understand. Will be attempting driver side next.
Minimizing the moisture - load the trunk with reusable desiccant
For anyone having moisture inside the car or trunk, grab some 1lb desiccant packs. The reusable ones are not that expensive.
This is not a fix for missing flaps or leaks into the cabin but it will help keep a sound vehicle dryer. They come with color changing pellets so you know when to do maintenance. i.e. replace or microwave them.
Throw a couple in the trunk and under the seats. Read the fine print if buying from amazoo as it appear you're buying a single 16oz bag but end up with 16 1oz bags...
I replaced my vents on my IS by doing the pull from the inside method. Worked fine. What specifically is the purpose of the vents? Is it for when you slam the door or trunk and there is a pressure difference for a moment?
I replaced my vents on my IS by doing the pull from the inside method. Worked fine. What specifically is the purpose of the vents? Is it for when you slam the door or trunk and there is a pressure difference for a moment?
Yes, that is most of it. They also allow a small amount of airflow from ambient outside air to flow through the cabin as it helps keep it dry inside. Anyone that leaves AC OFF and recirculate on, knows the moisture builds up quickly as us humans create enough moisture to fog windows.
For anyone having moisture inside the car or trunk, grab some 1lb desiccant packs. The reusable ones are not that expensive.
This is not a fix for missing flaps or leaks into the cabin but it will help keep a sound vehicle dryer. They come with color changing pellets so you know when to do maintenance. i.e. replace or microwave them.
Throw a couple in the trunk and under the seats. Read the fine print if buying from amazoo as it appear you're buying a single 16oz bag but end up with 16 1oz bags...
You can do the same with cat litter you can buy at any store. Just look for the silica sand based litter and put it in a cloth or paper bag. I like to use muslin bags, they're pretty conveniently sized and for my purposes (maintaining humidity in my humidor) they're just about perfect. If you're really worried about it, you can regenerate it in the regular oven too. Just set to 250F and let it bake for an hour or so.
I just installed mine using the pull-thru method. I got mine for cheap, $42 for the pair. If they are Chinese knock-offs, it's hard to tell. Looked legit right down to the package labeling. There were three differences between the old and the new. The flap is on the new set is slightly thinner, the seal is squared off black foam rubber that overlapped instead of a butt-jointed at the ends, and the tabs were too "flat". I used a heat gun and bent the tabs up to about a 45-degree angle to match the original vents. They snapped right in.
I recently got a 2008 IS350. No audio. I came across this thread and thought it was worth investigating.
I removed the head unit and opened it up on the workbench. There was no sign of water damage on the motherboard which would result from ponding in the cavity where the head unit is located. Despite it all looking clean and serene I re-soldered the capacitor terminals which were mentioned earlier on in the thread.
When I reinstated the unit in the car, I noticed that one of the molex connectors was looking a little bit discoloured. That’s usually an indication of excess heat, which is a result of either a high impedance junction within the connector where the connectors engage, or the connector being under-specced for the current it is carrying.
I gave the connectors a clean with deoxit before putting it all back together.
I also noticed that the rear vents were in that damaged condition and decided to replace them.
The audio system is working….yahoo!
I used it for a few weeks which included some heavy rain conditions, and then it stopped working again.
When I took the head unit out I noticed there was a little bit of moisture on the inside of the multi pin carrying the audio and control data from the dashboard unit.
I dried everything with the heat gun, reinstated the unit and it’s working again.
I noticed that the control/signal harness passes right by the open vent.
I think that the harness is getting wet through the vent, and wicking the water all the way to the multi pin connector and causing problems.
So there’s 2 possible issues, this one with the signal getting short-circuited by this very slight water ingress, and the more serious one where a lot of water gets in to the cavity and saturates the underside of the motherboard.
The replacement vent parts are on the way (they had to come from Japan), but the weather’s been kind and the system’s still going.
Thanks heaps to the OP for the spot-on advice.
03-17-21, 04:25 AM
Minimizing the moisture - load the trunk with reusable desiccant
