Engine Removal guide.
10-18-17, 11:29 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Personally, I would have tapped and threaded in a new fitting into where that pressed fitting was. But I hope that holds for you!
Great work on the 2IS! I see why this swap was nothing to you; you obviously work on higher-caliber vehicles from time to time.
There has been no aftermarket pods created to my knowledge. I've seen a couple members install a gauge into the driver's side vent though. Not where i'd put it, but it does the job. I also agree that an oil pressure gauge would be nice to have. On my previous vehicles (Hondas), that was one of the first "mods" I did to them.
Great work on the 2IS! I see why this swap was nothing to you; you obviously work on higher-caliber vehicles from time to time.
There has been no aftermarket pods created to my knowledge. I've seen a couple members install a gauge into the driver's side vent though. Not where i'd put it, but it does the job. I also agree that an oil pressure gauge would be nice to have. On my previous vehicles (Hondas), that was one of the first "mods" I did to them.
By the time I tapped the coolant fitting back in it was already secure, I just used the Epoxy to make sure it bonded and had no chance of leaking. at 3500PSI I think I'm safe Lol
I am going to figure out a way to hook up a oil pressure gauge and get busy making my catch can tonight Ill post some pictures later of what I weld up and what I can come up with in the garage.
I
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F18driver (10-18-17)
10-18-17, 06:20 PM
#32
Driver School Candidate
SSGPATE: Great thread! Thanks for sharing.
Quick question for you about accessing the timing cover.
Apparently my timing cover gasket is leaking....I say apparently BC I have not confirmed what the dealer told me after they granted me a one time free courtesy inspection. I kind of suspected a couple of things they found anyway and was trying to establish a relationship in case I needed dealer specific parts
The car (2008 IS250) is new to me and has 159,000 miles. It has always been serviced at the dealer by the previous owner who was a female. From what I have been able to put together, she was a sales person in the Phoenix area (a business card was in the spare tire area) and the name matched the service records the dealer had. I was able to get a copy of the records and the names matched..anyway she took really good care of the car...I am guessing all at the dealer.
My local Dealer quotes the book at 18 hours of labor (engine removal) to change this gasket!! I thanked them and decided to do a bit of research.
From your thread it seems to me that I should be able to access the timing cover by removing the front section of the car...and not actually remove the engine. I have recently gotten my hands dirty again after years of being away from wrenching. I am pretty confident I could do this...just want to do it the smart way...and removing the entire engine seems a bit excessive.
Thoughts?
Quick question for you about accessing the timing cover.
Apparently my timing cover gasket is leaking....I say apparently BC I have not confirmed what the dealer told me after they granted me a one time free courtesy inspection. I kind of suspected a couple of things they found anyway and was trying to establish a relationship in case I needed dealer specific parts
The car (2008 IS250) is new to me and has 159,000 miles. It has always been serviced at the dealer by the previous owner who was a female. From what I have been able to put together, she was a sales person in the Phoenix area (a business card was in the spare tire area) and the name matched the service records the dealer had. I was able to get a copy of the records and the names matched..anyway she took really good care of the car...I am guessing all at the dealer.
My local Dealer quotes the book at 18 hours of labor (engine removal) to change this gasket!! I thanked them and decided to do a bit of research.
From your thread it seems to me that I should be able to access the timing cover by removing the front section of the car...and not actually remove the engine. I have recently gotten my hands dirty again after years of being away from wrenching. I am pretty confident I could do this...just want to do it the smart way...and removing the entire engine seems a bit excessive.
Thoughts?
10-18-17, 06:29 PM
#33
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
SSGPATE: Great thread! Thanks for sharing.
Quick question for you about accessing the timing cover.
Apparently my timing cover gasket is leaking....I say apparently BC I have not confirmed what the dealer told me after they granted me a one time free courtesy inspection. I kind of suspected a couple of things they found anyway and was trying to establish a relationship in case I needed dealer specific parts
The car (2008 IS250) is new to me and has 159,000 miles. It has always been serviced at the dealer by the previous owner who was a female. From what I have been able to put together, she was a sales person in the Phoenix area (a business card was in the spare tire area) and the name matched the service records the dealer had. I was able to get a copy of the records and the names matched..anyway she took really good care of the car...I am guessing all at the dealer.
My local Dealer quotes the book at 18 hours of labor (engine removal) to change this gasket!! I thanked them and decided to do a bit of research.
From your thread it seems to me that I should be able to access the timing cover by removing the front section of the car...and not actually remove the engine. I have recently gotten my hands dirty again after years of being away from wrenching. I am pretty confident I could do this...just want to do it the smart way...and removing the entire engine seems a bit excessive.
Thoughts?
Quick question for you about accessing the timing cover.
Apparently my timing cover gasket is leaking....I say apparently BC I have not confirmed what the dealer told me after they granted me a one time free courtesy inspection. I kind of suspected a couple of things they found anyway and was trying to establish a relationship in case I needed dealer specific parts
The car (2008 IS250) is new to me and has 159,000 miles. It has always been serviced at the dealer by the previous owner who was a female. From what I have been able to put together, she was a sales person in the Phoenix area (a business card was in the spare tire area) and the name matched the service records the dealer had. I was able to get a copy of the records and the names matched..anyway she took really good care of the car...I am guessing all at the dealer.
My local Dealer quotes the book at 18 hours of labor (engine removal) to change this gasket!! I thanked them and decided to do a bit of research.
From your thread it seems to me that I should be able to access the timing cover by removing the front section of the car...and not actually remove the engine. I have recently gotten my hands dirty again after years of being away from wrenching. I am pretty confident I could do this...just want to do it the smart way...and removing the entire engine seems a bit excessive.
Thoughts?
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F18driver (10-18-17)
10-19-17, 06:18 AM
#34
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Since this thread is up i thought id ask. If I have an IS250 and for whatever reason my motor needed to be replaced. Would the IS350 motor swap directly into the 250 without any modifications needed?
10-19-17, 02:09 PM
#35
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I have not confirmed the exact location of the current leak. A few weeks ago I removed the under cover/s and steam cleaned the bottom of the engine area. Then took the following pics.
10-24-17, 06:15 AM
#36
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So just a touch back on my engine install the car is still running great it actually runs better then it ever has which tells me the engine rebuild/ piston ring update was never done right to begin with from the dealer.
I have not got around to making a catch can but I will I'm a little occupied with my turbo mustang Build and got side tracked at the moment.
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F18driver (10-24-17)
10-24-17, 04:55 PM
#38
In the first picture, the oil line fitting to the vvti can leak. It’s a copper gasket and easy to swap. I would start there. If it is in fact the front timing cover, it’s a larger job than you think and there is a reason they remove the motor. I’m not saying you can’t do it, but I would hesitate to do the job if you’ve never done the water pump.
10-24-17, 09:23 PM
#39
Driver School Candidate
In the first picture, the oil line fitting to the vvti can leak. It’s a copper gasket and easy to swap. I would start there. If it is in fact the front timing cover, it’s a larger job than you think and there is a reason they remove the motor. I’m not saying you can’t do it, but I would hesitate to do the job if you’ve never done the water pump.
The water pump has never been changed according to my records. I gotta find the leak first so I will start there. Just can't blindly believe the Techs at the Dealer.
Thanks for the input
11-16-17, 05:41 PM
#40
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Im back at it again
I ordered all 4 02 sensors to replace my old ones with. I was so focused on getting the engine knocked out it never crossed my mind to replace them until last week. These sensors are pretty expensive all of them was about 370$ to my door from Rock auto for the more high quality sensors...I also bought a really nice Sand blaster setup from texas blaster to walnut shell blast my valves out once a year or every other year to keep the car in like new shape. I supplied a link. I will most likely do a video or tuitorial on walnut blasting the valves and the proper procedures to get it done without making a mess or getting walnut shells in the combustion chamber.
https://www.texasblaster.com/index.p...&product_id=24
Looks the the drivers side 02 is going to be a ***** to get to or i may have to pull the intake to get to it.... If i have to pull the intake might as well go ahead and try out my walnut blaster.
I ordered all 4 02 sensors to replace my old ones with. I was so focused on getting the engine knocked out it never crossed my mind to replace them until last week. These sensors are pretty expensive all of them was about 370$ to my door from Rock auto for the more high quality sensors...I also bought a really nice Sand blaster setup from texas blaster to walnut shell blast my valves out once a year or every other year to keep the car in like new shape. I supplied a link. I will most likely do a video or tuitorial on walnut blasting the valves and the proper procedures to get it done without making a mess or getting walnut shells in the combustion chamber.
https://www.texasblaster.com/index.p...&product_id=24
Looks the the drivers side 02 is going to be a ***** to get to or i may have to pull the intake to get to it.... If i have to pull the intake might as well go ahead and try out my walnut blaster.
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Mrfix (11-16-17)
08-04-21, 02:19 PM
#41
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Lexus is 350 wiring harness
Got the engine installed today worked on it about 6 hours today, spent about 1.5 hours of that taking apart the old motor to get the TQ converter off the flex plate since the engine was locked up and wouldn't spin.
The new engine was identical except the bracket where the heater hoses connect to. Mine fro 2010 had a fuel line that went to the intake built into the sensor and the new engine did not so i had to swap my whole bracket and sensor over. other then that everything went very well. Should have this things running after a half days work tomorrow.
This will be my second motor this week earlier in the week I installed the new Stroker engine in my Mustang in preparation for the twin turbos if there are any mustang Enthusiasts in here
The new engine was identical except the bracket where the heater hoses connect to. Mine fro 2010 had a fuel line that went to the intake built into the sensor and the new engine did not so i had to swap my whole bracket and sensor over. other then that everything went very well. Should have this things running after a half days work tomorrow.
This will be my second motor this week earlier in the week I installed the new Stroker engine in my Mustang in preparation for the twin turbos if there are any mustang Enthusiasts in here
08-04-21, 04:38 PM
#42
08-05-21, 04:49 PM
#43
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i understand this. But what I am trying to ask is i cant get the wires unhooked from the fuse box is there a nut i need to take off to get inside the fuse box
08-05-21, 04:50 PM
#44
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the wires oon the right side in a clear plastic bag( the one on top of the engine not the ones in the head light ) how did you unplug those ive never done this before