Motor Oil and Carbon Buildup
10-14-17, 06:39 AM
#1
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Motor Oil and Carbon Buildup
I have done way too much investigation into preventing carbon build up, especially on the oil side of prevention. So after talking to Toyota, diesel, and local mechanics that do alot of work with DI and GDI engines and spending major time on the BITOG forum. I have reached these conclusions:
1) Pay some thought of what type of engine oil you're running. My IS has problems w/fuel dilution (per Blackstone UOA and smell test). That has to be addressed w/an oil that resists this. Also, pay careful attention to your oil's volatility. One way its expressed is by the acronym NOACK. Look for an oil w/a lower NOACK score.....better under 10. I would NOT use a conventional oil unless doing a quick turnaround OCI for cleaning.
2) Pay attention to your oil change intervals. While I'd love to get 7500-10,000 miles between, my UOA said 6K is pushing it. That's using a stout oil like Pennzoil Plat. 5w30.
3) If your motor oil dirties up pretty quick after changing, consider quick turnaround OCI's (2-3)....
to clean up the engine (to a point)....perhaps 1-2k miles.
3a) Buy the best filter you possible can. Fram ULTRA (not other frams), Royal Purple and Amsoil Ea filters are highly rated by BITOG
Of course, the other things that go along with this are:
4) Using top-tier fuels
5) Fuel additives that has use PEA in it. My personal mechanic says it DOES WORK for DI, TDI, and diesel engines. He recommends every other fill up.
6) Driving the heck out of your car. Read an article that polled mechanics across the USA, and it showed a clear relationship between stop/go traffic...daily and carbon buildup. Cars driven in the hills and mountains and out in the open country had much, much less carbon buildup. Take away: drive it hard and get it out on the open road and run it.
7) Check your oil on a weekly basis, add when needed
8) Consider having a catch can installed to capture that hated blow by.
9) Enjoy your car!
1) Pay some thought of what type of engine oil you're running. My IS has problems w/fuel dilution (per Blackstone UOA and smell test). That has to be addressed w/an oil that resists this. Also, pay careful attention to your oil's volatility. One way its expressed is by the acronym NOACK. Look for an oil w/a lower NOACK score.....better under 10. I would NOT use a conventional oil unless doing a quick turnaround OCI for cleaning.
2) Pay attention to your oil change intervals. While I'd love to get 7500-10,000 miles between, my UOA said 6K is pushing it. That's using a stout oil like Pennzoil Plat. 5w30.
3) If your motor oil dirties up pretty quick after changing, consider quick turnaround OCI's (2-3)....
to clean up the engine (to a point)....perhaps 1-2k miles.
3a) Buy the best filter you possible can. Fram ULTRA (not other frams), Royal Purple and Amsoil Ea filters are highly rated by BITOG
Of course, the other things that go along with this are:
4) Using top-tier fuels
5) Fuel additives that has use PEA in it. My personal mechanic says it DOES WORK for DI, TDI, and diesel engines. He recommends every other fill up.
6) Driving the heck out of your car. Read an article that polled mechanics across the USA, and it showed a clear relationship between stop/go traffic...daily and carbon buildup. Cars driven in the hills and mountains and out in the open country had much, much less carbon buildup. Take away: drive it hard and get it out on the open road and run it.
7) Check your oil on a weekly basis, add when needed
8) Consider having a catch can installed to capture that hated blow by.
9) Enjoy your car!
Last edited by DixieLex; 10-01-18 at 03:43 AM.
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IWasHungry (10-14-17)
10-14-17, 09:53 AM
#2
Can't you just vent the crankcase directly to the outside instead of recirculating the gases bypassing the whole PVC system? Just put a drip tube from the PCV valve toward the ground and plug the hose running to the intake side. I'm not sure how important the vacuum is though.
10-14-17, 09:59 AM
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Can't you just vent the crankcase directly to the outside instead of recirculating the gases bypassing the whole PVC system? Just put a drip tube from the PCV valve toward the ground and plug the hose running to the intake side. I'm not sure how important the vacuum is though.
10-14-17, 03:53 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thanks, I'll definitely start using fuel system cleaners w/ PEA occasionally. Every other fill up seems a bit much but at least every 3000 miles or 1-2 weeks before an oil change seems reasonable.
The debate about whether driving WOT occasionally to heat up your engine does anything seems eternal, but the conclusion that regularly driving short distances w/ a cool engine being detrimental makes sense. Cars are intended to run hot.
Carbon build-up is the most concerning issue to me regarding the IS250, so thanks for the info
The debate about whether driving WOT occasionally to heat up your engine does anything seems eternal, but the conclusion that regularly driving short distances w/ a cool engine being detrimental makes sense. Cars are intended to run hot.
Carbon build-up is the most concerning issue to me regarding the IS250, so thanks for the info
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