When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Why are people having tire wear issues ? I have SPC ball joints to camber out almost to stock spec and i have zero abnormal front tire wear.. thinking about these RCF bushings though I'm going to have my car in this spring for a complete inspection.. seems like a worthy upgrade. my rear tires will need to be replaced before my fronts for sure.. bought them at the same time obvi
Why are people having tire wear issues ? I have SPC ball joints to camber out almost to stock spec and i have zero abnormal front tire wear.. thinking about these RCF bushings though I'm going to have my car in this spring for a complete inspection.. seems like a worthy upgrade. my rear tires will need to be replaced before my fronts for sure.. bought them at the same time obvi
Having worked in an alignment shop, camber is not the killer here. Cars having high caster also have a high scrub angle when turned sharp like at the limit for example. That said, if they spend a lot of time in parking lots with the wheels turned near lock, a geometry setting we can not change called Toe -In on turns, eats the edges (inner and outer) rounding the tires edges. Adding to this, the soft OEM bushings increase the scrub angle while braking which further destroys the inner edge...
ANYONE SEEING BOTH EDGES (INNER / OUTER) BEING MOWED DOWN, INCREASE YOUR TIRE PRESSURE!!!!
I'm running 40 psi in the front and 33 psi in the rear on stagger...
Fronts murder the edges = increase pressure.
Rears murder the center = decrease pressure.
Toe and camber are far less of a factor than the wrong pressure for how the car is used. Mine runs around with a single occupant 90% of the time...
Having worked in an alignment shop, camber is not the killer here. Cars having high caster also have a high scrub angle when turned sharp like at the limit for example. That said, if they spend a lot of time in parking lots with the wheels turned near lock, a geometry setting we can not change called Toe -In on turns, eats the edges (inner and outer) rounding the tires edges. Adding to this, the soft OEM bushings increase the scrub angle while braking which further destroys the inner edge...
ANYONE SEEING BOTH EDGES (INNER / OUTER) BEING MOWED DOWN, INCREASE YOUR TIRE PRESSURE!!!!
I'm running 40 psi in the front and 33 psi in the rear on stagger...
Fronts murder the edges = increase pressure.
Rears murder the center = decrease pressure.
Toe and camber are far less of a factor than the wrong pressure for how the car is used. Mine runs around with a single occupant 90% of the time...
tire sizes?? I'm 225/30/19 fronts and 275/30/19 rears
tire sizes?? I'm 225/30/19 fronts and 275/30/19 rears
Regarding pressure? Adjust pressure to obtain wear across the whole tire assuming toe and camber are correct for your driving style and loading.
PRESSURE:
Worn center = decrease psi
Worn edges = increase psi
Even wear = no change
TOE:
Zero is usually best but small amounts can reduce edge wear, even with some negative camber.
Worn inside edge = toe in
Worn outside edge = toe out
Just keep in mind that scrub wear can occur with zero toe and scrub wear will almost always be feathered leaving saw tooth edge.
RC-F bushings 48075-24010 and 48076-24010 (0 offset)
Had these on for nearly 2 years, very nice improvement over the factory ones. When I installed them first I could tell they were a bit firmer, but after 2 days I got used to the new feel. Remember driving on roundabouts (we have few of them in my area) and feeling the car being lot tighter on turns and it was going exactly where I intended it to go, without that flaky, mushy, feeling it had prior to the new bushings. Also changing lanes on the highway has improved. So 2 years in, the car still feels very solid, no squeaks and the tires are holding up great with nice and even wear.
I just received my RCF bushings and I decided to open both of them at the same time. But I didn’t realize there wasn't going to be any noticeable between both the RCF bushings. Except one has a yellow dot on it and the other has a purple dot on it. While opening I didn’t keep track of which bushing goes with what part number. However, you did post this picture showing one with a purple dot and the corresponding part number. Does anyone know if this is going to be true all the times? Or when I am installing it, would I be able to realize that I am installing the wrong one on the wrong side? Like is there a right and wrong one that I'll notice while installing.
Also I noticed that on the actual bushing there seems to be a part number of some sort but its not the same as the part number of the RCF bushings but the bags that they came in says the correct part number that I ordered. The number on the actual bushing says 48655-24070 and its says the same exact thing on both the bushings but the bags says 48075-24010 and 48076-24010. I order them at Bell Lexus so theres a good chance thats just how it is but mistakes do happen. I looked up the number on google and nothing comes up so I am confused why that number is there. Can anyone tell me if I received the correct parts and why that number is there?
If anyone could give me some insight on either one of these questions I'll really appreciate that!
Or when I am installing it, would I be able to realize that I am installing the wrong one on the wrong side? Like is there a right and wrong one that I'll notice while installing.
Yes, look at the hole in the middle of the bushing. You will see there is a difference. Just remove and replace one bushing at a time on your vehicle while comparing it to the replacement to make sure it is the correct one.
Yes, look at the hole in the middle of the bushing. You will see there is a difference. Just remove and replace one bushing at a time on your vehicle while comparing it to the replacement to make sure it is the correct one.
okay thanks I’ll keep that in mind. I didn’t realize there was a difference in the center.
also, after installing it I should get an alignment done right? Is there anything that I should mention to them how I want the alignment to be done so I don’t get the inner tire wear?
okay thanks I’ll keep that in mind. I didn’t realize there was a difference in the center.
also, after installing it I should get an alignment done right? Is there anything that I should mention to them how I want the alignment to be done so I don’t get the inner tire wear?
Yes, the bushing has some play in it when tightening everything back together. On mine, I also had to remove the forward bolt on the control arm to get enough play for removing and replacing the rear bushing. It will throw the alignment off.
When tightening everything, make sure to load the suspension to normal ride height before torquing everything down.
As far as requesting a special alignment setup, I went to factory specs. My previous alignment had a slight toe-in in an attempt to offset the inner wear. I think all that really accomplished was it caused some outer tire wear. I would just go to factory specs.
just wondering if anyone here has an actual photo of the stock bushings? Mine don't look right, on my AWD IS250 the bushing seems like its missing or short on the rear part of the hole in the control arm, all I can see is the steel sleeve and empty space. Is the rubber supposed to support the sleeve through the entire hole in the control arm?
I guess i'm looking at a different bushing, its the one on the lower strut. Doesn't seem right that the rubber insert doesn't go through the entire hole. A nut/washer goes on the end of this but leaves an obvious gap and doesn't tighten against the A-Arm at all, it bottoms out on the steel sleeve insert in the middle.
no nothing is bent it just looks off because the backside of the suspension arm is not square. It appears like the bushing inside was meant to hold the lower strut entirely. IE there is nothing to keep that bolt from being pushed forward and out besides the friction of the pressed bushing or maybe some glue they used? Seems strange to me. That's why I wondered if anyone else looked at this bolt when replacing their strut and also scratched their heads.
To all who have installed the RC F / GS F bushing / brackets; 48076-24010 (Driver side) & 48075-24010 (Passenger side)
Would like to confirm if the following listed torque specs are correct (see photos below & diagram after). Can install / removal be done with vehicle on ramps, or required to be level? Also, should a threadlocker should be used; Permatex Threadlocker BLUE # 24200 - medium strength for fasteners up to 19mm. Keeps threaded fasteners from vibrations / loosening fasteners from. Removed with hand tools. * Permatex Threadlocker ORANGE # 25210- For fasteners up to 25mm.Hybrid formula that combines the strength of a Permatex RED with the removability of a Permatex BLUE. Removed with hand tools and does not require heating to achieve removal. Ideal for high vibration applications. Permatex threadlocker RED # 19962 Permanent strength - For fasteners up to 25.4mm. Protects threads from rust & corrosion ,for use in heavy shock & vibration conditions.May require localized heat of 500 degrees and hand tool to remove.
22mm socket for 2 bolts: Torque front bolt to 150 Ft. Lbs.?? Torque End bolt to 83 Ft. Lbs.??
17mm socket - 1 bolt with nut on top. Torque to 63 Ft. lbs.??
14mm socket - 2 bolts to remove bracket. Torque bolts to 37 Ft. Lbs. ??
10mm socket - 2 bolts to remove panel. Tighten until snug, Over Tightening may strip aluminum threaded holes bolts thread into.
OEM bushing - Flat side with blue dot is where the bolt and washer go and faces rear of vehicle.
OEM bushing - Cone shaped side, goes onto control arm bolt / faces the engine.
The cone shaped part goes towards the front of the car. The flat end towards the back of the car.
I wouldn't stress out about the threadlocker. Never used anything on mine, two years later there's no sign of anything coming off loose.
02-23-20 | 03:48 PM
