Lower Control Arm Bushings...
#61
The cone shaped part goes towards the front of the car. The flat end towards the back of the car.
I wouldn't stress out about the threadlocker. Never used anything on mine, two years later there's no sign of anything coming off loose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWa3EDMvQXE
I wouldn't stress out about the threadlocker. Never used anything on mine, two years later there's no sign of anything coming off loose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWa3EDMvQXE
Last edited by ELexis; 01-02-21 at 08:36 AM.
#62
Instructor
If you have an access to a hoist that would make things easier. The bushings and brackets can be replaced while the car is in the air. Torquing the nut needs to be done with the wheels on the ground though. If having an access to a hoist is not an option then find a shop with the drive on ramp (alignment shops have those) and let them do the swap. It shouldn’t take more then 40-50 minutes to replace the bushings as it’s pretty straightforward thing to do. If you’re upgrading to RCF, GSF, ISF you don’t need to grease anything, unless you’re doing poly.
#63
If you have an access to a hoist that would make things easier. The bushings and brackets can be replaced while the car is in the air. Torquing the nut needs to be done with the wheels on the ground though. If having an access to a hoist is not an option then find a shop with the drive on ramp (alignment shops have those) and let them do the swap. It shouldn’t take more then 40-50 minutes to replace the bushings as it’s pretty straightforward thing to do. If you’re upgrading to RCF, GSF, ISF you don’t need to grease anything, unless you’re doing poly.
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primavera (01-02-21)
#64
If you have an access to a hoist that would make things easier. The bushings and brackets can be replaced while the car is in the air. Torquing the nut needs to be done with the wheels on the ground though. If having an access to a hoist is not an option then find a shop with the drive on ramp (alignment shops have those) and let them do the swap. It shouldn’t take more then 40-50 minutes to replace the bushings as it’s pretty straightforward thing to do. If you’re upgrading to RCF, GSF, ISF you don’t need to grease anything, unless you’re doing poly.
Last edited by ELexis; 01-31-21 at 01:16 PM.
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sNotM3 (12-24-22)
#67
Thanks for the follow up flowrider. I appreciate it. I understand it necessary to have vehicle on ground under load, but was unsure if having vehicle front elevated with wheels still under load while on ramp would impact anything. When you had changed yours, did the use of ramps interfere with you accessing the necessary parts?
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sNotM3 (12-24-22)
#69
Thank you. Had concerns that using ramps may interfere with easily accessing the bolts or not allowing for additional room when prying the control arm forward to remove the bushings. Will give it a try. May use some Blaster PB penetrating oil on bolts a few days before attempting, to help free the bolts.
Last edited by ELexis; 04-04-21 at 06:06 PM.
#70
Apologies for not inquiring in previous post however, what did you use to break free the top 22mm bolt(shown in photo below as 150 Ft lbs.)? Was able to free the other 22mm (83 ft. lb.) &17mm nuts, but that one 22mm on both sides was not to be removed! I've since applied PB Blaster penetrating catalyst and will try again in a few days using an 18" breaker bar (was using 12" long 1/2" drive ratchet).
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sNotM3 (12-24-22)
#71
Wanted to follow up and thank all members for providing the information for removing the LCA bushings.
Was able to remove / install LCA bushings using ramps. Removal / installation went very well. The center 22mm nut (that goes through bushing center) was removed easily, after applying the PB blaster penetrant. Only issue encountered, was finding the right position to gain enough leverage to pry down the control arm on the passenger side. Pry bars available were too long to use in the small area and wound up using a 10" long 1/2" ratchet to wedge between control arm and sub frame, to pry control arm down enough to remove the old bushings and then again to install the new bushings.
Again, thank you!
Was able to remove / install LCA bushings using ramps. Removal / installation went very well. The center 22mm nut (that goes through bushing center) was removed easily, after applying the PB blaster penetrant. Only issue encountered, was finding the right position to gain enough leverage to pry down the control arm on the passenger side. Pry bars available were too long to use in the small area and wound up using a 10" long 1/2" ratchet to wedge between control arm and sub frame, to pry control arm down enough to remove the old bushings and then again to install the new bushings.
Again, thank you!
Last edited by ELexis; 05-12-21 at 05:57 PM.
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primavera (05-11-21)
#75
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
I suggest you measure left to right right to left from a fixed point the big nuts center... Record value. R&R bushing, measure again and place the new LCAB back where it was so the toe doesn't change. Then lower it on to ramps and tighten the nuts.
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sNotM3 (12-24-22)