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The cone shaped part goes towards the front of the car. The flat end towards the back of the car.
I wouldn't stress out about the threadlocker. Never used anything on mine, two years later there's no sign of anything coming off loose.
Thank you for confirming; Flat side with blue dot, is where the bolt and washer go and faces rear of vehicle,&Cone shaped side, goes onto control arm bolt / faces the engine, as well as posting the video tutorial.I appreciate your time and doing so! Will not use threadlocker on bolts.Can bushings be installed with front of vehicle on ramp, or does vehicle need to be level? Also, would adding some polyurethane bushing grease on control arm prior to installing bushing be advisable?
If you have an access to a hoist that would make things easier. The bushings and brackets can be replaced while the car is in the air. Torquing the nut needs to be done with the wheels on the ground though. If having an access to a hoist is not an option then find a shop with the drive on ramp (alignment shops have those) and let them do the swap. It shouldn’t take more then 40-50 minutes to replace the bushings as it’s pretty straightforward thing to do. If you’re upgrading to RCF, GSF, ISF you don’t need to grease anything, unless you’re doing poly.
If you have an access to a hoist that would make things easier. The bushings and brackets can be replaced while the car is in the air. Torquing the nut needs to be done with the wheels on the ground though. If having an access to a hoist is not an option then find a shop with the drive on ramp (alignment shops have those) and let them do the swap. It shouldn’t take more then 40-50 minutes to replace the bushings as it’s pretty straightforward thing to do. If you’re upgrading to RCF, GSF, ISF you don’t need to grease anything, unless you’re doing poly.
Understood. No bushing grease required when installing the RC F OEM bushings. Will most likely bring to an alignment shop as suggested. Thank you for following up. I appreciate your time and doing so!
If you have an access to a hoist that would make things easier. The bushings and brackets can be replaced while the car is in the air. Torquing the nut needs to be done with the wheels on the ground though. If having an access to a hoist is not an option then find a shop with the drive on ramp (alignment shops have those) and let them do the swap. It shouldn’t take more then 40-50 minutes to replace the bushings as it’s pretty straightforward thing to do. If you’re upgrading to RCF, GSF, ISF you don’t need to grease anything, unless you’re doing poly.
I understand wheels need to be on the ground when torquing LCAB bolts. Does the vehicle also have to be level? Would like to use ramps to remove / install the LCAB. Would vehicle on an incline cause any issues if bolts are torqued while on ramps?
Thanks for the follow up flowrider. I appreciate it. I understand it necessary to have vehicle on ground under load, but was unsure if having vehicle front elevated with wheels still under load while on ramp would impact anything. When you had changed yours, did the use of ramps interfere with you accessing the necessary parts?
Thank you. Had concerns that using ramps may interfere with easily accessing the bolts or not allowing for additional room when prying the control arm forward to remove the bushings. Will give it a try. May use some Blaster PB penetrating oil on bolts a few days before attempting, to help free the bolts.
Apologies for not inquiring in previous post however, what did you use to break free the top 22mm bolt(shown in photo below as 150 Ft lbs.)? Was able to free the other 22mm (83 ft. lb.) &17mm nuts, but that one 22mm on both sides was not to be removed! I've since applied PB Blaster penetrating catalyst and will try again in a few days using an 18" breaker bar (was using 12" long 1/2" drive ratchet).
Wanted to follow up and thank all members for providing the information for removing the LCA bushings.
Was able to remove / install LCA bushings using ramps. Removal / installation went very well. The center 22mm nut (that goes through bushing center) was removed easily, after applying the PB blaster penetrant. Only issue encountered, was finding the right position to gain enough leverage to pry down the control arm on the passenger side. Pry bars available were too long to use in the small area and wound up using a 10" long 1/2" ratchet to wedge between control arm and sub frame, to pry control arm down enough to remove the old bushings and then again to install the new bushings.
Again, thank you!
I did mine last weekend, the job went quicker than expected. I used the RCF, I’m thinking maybe I’ll buy the figs and press them into my stock brackets.
Petet,, congratulations on the successful install. Did you accomplish removal / installation using ramps as well?
Originally Posted by Petet
I used ramps then jacked each side up at the frame with a floor jack. Doing 1 side at a time. Removed the wheel for extra room.
The downside about using ramps and doing one side at a time (one wheel on the ramp under load) is the sway bar will fight you a little while pulling the rear of the arm down to R&R the bushings.
I suggest you measure left to right right to left from a fixed point the big nuts center... Record value. R&R bushing, measure again and place the new LCAB back where it was so the toe doesn't change. Then lower it on to ramps and tighten the nuts.
01-01-21, 06:16 PM
