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Ok I figured something out after some thought after 2013FSport mentioned it. The overflow tank cap. It has to be hooked up corrctly wich means it shoukd suck fluid when the sytem creates a vacuum. My cap was the same position since I bought the car 2 years ago. So it was actually sucking up air instead of fluid. Sucking from the side that' suppose to flow out. I now flipped it so that the vacuum draws from the hose in the over flow tank. I looked a some photos of the cap, and they are all in different positions. Can someone confirm the correct position. I'm assuming its correct now that I had more time to look everything over. Like I said I've seen pics of the caps facing different directions.
I searched pretty extensively and couldn't find anything directly similar.
I will try and keep this as short as possible.
Ever since I have had the car (2ish years) my in car heat has been hit or miss. Some days it will blow warm other days it will only blow warm while under load. To this day I have the same issue.
About a month ago had an overheating issue. Temp spiked one day to about 2/3rd on the temp gauge. Immediately turned off and put in a new water pump, thermostat, and rad cap. Issue solved. Drove 1k miles on the car no issues no temp change or fluctuation.
Last night after driving on the highway for about an hour my temp started to creep up. Pulled over let it cool down check coolant a little low but nothing crazy. Topped up started up drove for about 10 minutes and temp creeped up again. Took it to a shop they found a small pin hole leak in one of the hoses off of the thermostat housing. Replaced, bled system and couldn't replicate overheating.
Picked up the car today and same thing after about an hour on the highway temp creeped up about 1 tick above the middle, turned the heat on full blast and went back down. If i turn the heat off the temp will creep up but if I leave the heat on its fine.
The shop ruled out Head gasket as there are no symptoms of head gasket, no smoke, no oil/coolant mixture, and the system pressure tested fine.
I am completely stumped at this point, I initially thought an air bubble was the culprit but I bled the car and the shop bled the car with no signs of an air pocket. The only aspect of the cooling system untouched would be the radiator, but I am not completely sold.
Any insight?
*Not entirely related but my a/c compressor went out (pulley shot) a few months ago and haven't got around to swapping it out yet, but figured I'd note it.*
Have you chem, flushed rad. and heater core? And are you sure no air bubbles in the system? For some cars bleeding air is little tricky. As well do a pressure test as well. All DIY stuffs.
The engine side should connect to the tube that reaches the bottom of the reservoir.
The other hose connection vents to the top and is simply the overflow should the res brim it won't spray on the accessory belt.
I've just recently started to get coolant over flow. I replaced the cap about 5 months ago, and drained and filled the coolant. I'm finding coolant splattred all over the front of the engine. This whole time my car has not over heated. So this morning check and there it was again coolant everywhere. It' coming from the reservoir cap. So I had a new thermostat that I bought before. Just to lazy to install. I will monitor it a few more days. Hopefully it is the thermostat. The car needle is actually showing at a lower position than before. The water pump seems fine no leaks anywhere. Worst case I will just buy a new radiator before I change the water pump. Car is at 70K now.
From the last picture the bottom piece on the new thermostat inside the spring was at a lower position. Does it mean it's open? Vs closed position.
Awh yes. It was on backwards!
That is a pretty special filler you have there!
Your engine hasn't been refilling on cool down for some time... Uhg! Glad you found it now!
The engine side should connect to the tube that reaches the bottom of the reservoir.
The other hose connection vents to the top and is simply the overflow should the res brim it won't spray on the accessory belt.
Yes, tab is forward like your picture.
Should there be a tube in the reservoir that goes to the bottom of it? I always wondered that because my reservoir cap has just a little nub maybe 1 inch long that goes into the reservoir.
Have you chem, flushed rad. and heater core? And are you sure no air bubbles in the system? For some cars bleeding air is little tricky. As well do a pressure test as well. All DIY stuffs.
Should there be a tube in the reservoir that goes to the bottom of it? I always wondered that because my reservoir cap has just a little nub maybe 1 inch long that goes into the reservoir.
Yes a hose should reach the bottom of the reservoir. If it's missing you'l need to add one. If not when the engine creates vacuum it will let air into the system again. Creating air pockets.
Yes a hose should reach the bottom of the reservoir. If it's missing you'l need to add one. If not when the engine creates vacuum it will let air into the system again. Creating air pockets.
That actually makes a lot of sense and really might be my issue. I'll throw some hose on tonight and update tomorrow.
Yes a hose should reach the bottom of the reservoir. If it's missing you'l need to add one. If not when the engine creates vacuum it will let air into the system again. Creating air pockets.
A few questions about this.
1.) If the engine is properly bled it shouldn't ever create a vacuum yea?
2.) If the engine does in fact draw from the reservoir wouldn't it always create an air pocket given that the reservoir is not pressurized?
I assume that it will create a vacuum., because as the engine heats up the coolant will expand into the reservoir tank. Then draw it back out as the engine cools.
It will not create a pocket because it will draw fluid from the bottom of the reservoir tank. Hence the hose is submerged in fluid. That' why you must never let the reservoir go dry.
1.) If the engine is properly bled it shouldn't ever create a vacuum yea?
2.) If the engine does in fact draw from the reservoir wouldn't it always create an air pocket given that the reservoir is not pressurized?
If the engine is bled properly it should never create a vacuum.
The reservoir is only used to provide the cooling system with fluid expansion. The radiator cap will open if the pressure in the cooling system gets high enough allowing fluid to escape into the reservoir, as the temp and pressure drops the coolant is sucked back into the cooling system. If you have no coolant in the reservoir than air could be sucked back in. If your system is working properly you will never run out of coolant in the Reservoir (there is a High and Low mark). So air won't be introduced.
Maybe that's your problem if you ran out? Bleed the system again for like 40 minutes allowing several cycles of coolant flow through the system. Squeezing the upper rad hose a little from time to time..
11-15-17, 02:01 PM
