Bimsimack

My battery ran out of power the other day( steering wheel went stiff, radio wouldn’t stay on).
Successful drove the car for about 15min to get it home then disconnected the battery around 4pm.
the next morning I connected a new battery and now the car wouldn’t start. The brakes are stiff so I can’t push down to start the car.

the only thing that’s working now is the dashboard lights. The key fob is also not functioning (installed new batteries).
i tried using the diagnostic tool but there is no power coming through. It wouldn’t turn on either.

I thought it might need a simple rebooting process after changing the battery but I couldn’t find anything like that for the Lexus IS.

Any suggestions?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you popped a fuse along the way. This car has many.
Check all under hood fuses. All those around the battery, on the left wheel well, and those under the dash on both left and right sides. The owners manual can be downloaded from Lexus. You should grab that.

Let us know what you find.

Bimsimack

Turns out it was the fuse link(long white thing in the fuse box). Part of it had broken off. Thanks 2013FSport... true MVP saved me some money there.
Is it sold on it’s owne or do I have to buy the whole box? Could you also recommend a site where I can get this part. I leave outside the US so information is limited.

Htony

Fuse link is sort of main fuse for the electrical system. Dumb question, you did not cross the polarity of the battery, did you? No?, then you better find out why fuse link blew B4 replacing it.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Aggreed ^^.... try to recite what all quit working. And look for the section (fuse section) that does the power steering. Can you post a pic of the section that blew and the wire color leaving the blown section.

Look up: 82620-30170.... its not cheap.

Bimsimack

I didn’t personally reconnect the new battery but I suspect the person that did must have crossed the wires.

Bimsimack

The mechanic fixed it up with soda(not sure if that’s the international name). Basically he melted some metal wire to connect the two sides. I still plan on changing the whole thing regardless.

The car starts now and all the electronics are back on however the throttle is not engaging. My diagnosis gave me a P2118 error code. Hopefully it’s just the etcs fuse. Will get back to you when we check it out.

Bimsimack

The fuse seems to be ok. May have caused some more damage.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Even tho it has a temp fix, solder melts from heat. Heat occurs when current flows if the load exceeds the repair, it opens up again.

Keep checking, there is likely a short or another open fuse downstream of the fusable link.

Htony

I'd say applying temporary fix is pretty dangerous. Cause of problem has to be found.

Bimsimack

[QUOTE=2013FSport;10036915]Even tho it has a temp fix, solder melts from heat. Heat occurs when current flows if the load exceeds the repair, it opens up again.

Keep checking, there is likely a short or another open fuse downstream of the fusable link.[/QUOTE

couldn't find another brake in the fuse link. Another electrician is going to have a look tomorrow. I have already put in an order for e new fuse link but that should take a couple of weeks

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

It does aid in troubleshooting and could save the cost of a second bus link.
Agree completely tho - needs root cause found to prevent it from repeating.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

So what all was on that circuit that popped?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

EPS - Electronic Power Steering

But mine shows the first two holes as depop...

Bimsimack

Hi guys been a while. I finally changed the main fuse. The car starts ok but the throttle is still not responding. I took it to the garage for a proper look. It turns out there is only about 5volts going to the throttle instead of the required 12volts. They checked that all the fuses were ok and also the wires from the throttle to the ECM.
They recomend I order a new ECM.