IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

IS250 won't start has check vsc

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Old 12-26-17 | 10:36 AM
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Default IS250 won't start has check vsc

My daughter has an 08 IS250 with about 104k miles. Drove it Christmas Eve, no problems, that I know of. Went to move it Christmas Day and it wouldn't start. Gauges power up but motor does nothing, not even a sound. Brake pedal is hard and Theon board screen says check VSC. I thought maybe battery so I put mine in hers and hers in mine. Mine is brand new. My truck started with her battery no problem. Hers still did nothing except one time it turned over but didn't start. Nothing since. Check VSC light still on. Also to mention, I reinstalled her newly recovered door panels that have been out for 2weeks. I don't think that's the problem since there was no issues when I removed them but worth mentioning. Key FOB also still working. Any help would be appreciated before I make the leap to take to dealer. Thanks
Old 02-07-18 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 76vetteluv
My daughter has an 08 IS250 with about 104k miles. Drove it Christmas Eve, no problems, that I know of. Went to move it Christmas Day and it wouldn't start. Gauges power up but motor does nothing, not even a sound. Brake pedal is hard and Theon board screen says check VSC. I thought maybe battery so I put mine in hers and hers in mine. Mine is brand new. My truck started with her battery no problem. Hers still did nothing except one time it turned over but didn't start. Nothing since. Check VSC light still on. Also to mention, I reinstalled her newly recovered door panels that have been out for 2weeks. I don't think that's the problem since there was no issues when I removed them but worth mentioning. Key FOB also still working. Any help would be appreciated before I make the leap to take to dealer. Thanks
did you get this figured out? My daughters car did the exact same thing today.
Old 02-07-18 | 03:02 PM
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Default Problem, I think is solved.

Took it to a local mechanic. ECU would not communicate with the computer. They said bad ECU. Purchased a used one online and they installed but said I had to take to Lexus to program to car. Lexus insisted on reinstalling the old one because they didn't think it would be bad. It wasn't. Their computer showed a bad fuel rail pressure sensor. They disconnected it and car started but would only go 10mph until sensor was replaced. Part cost at Lexus of Birmingham, $690 and at least a month before getting one. It is now back home. I actually ordered the part from Butler Lexus South Atlanta online for just under $300. It arrived today and I plan to install sometime this week or weekend. I hope this helps. I will try to remember to post a follow up on weither it truly was the problem.
Old 02-07-18 | 09:52 PM
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I was gonna say, the same thing happened to me on my 08 350 last week. Bad fuel pressure sensor and they were able to replace the sensor without replacing the rail. I actually created the thread yesterday to tell everyone. Been seeing the problem come around more and more. The ECU/ECM is covered by the extended class action warranty by the way for 18 yrs/150,000 miles. Found that out through Toyota and the guys at Lexus told me it didn’t exist until I showed it to them.

New Sensor got installed yesterday and car started right up.

Last edited by 08350; 02-07-18 at 09:53 PM. Reason: More to post
Old 02-12-18 | 03:35 PM
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Default Problem solved

It was the fuel rail pressure sensor. Took about an hour and a half to change but did fix the problem. I hope this helps anyone else.
Old 11-09-18 | 04:23 PM
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Our 20yr old just got this today, same symptoms as everyone else. Can someone tell me where fuel pressure sensor is located? Thanks.


Old 11-09-18 | 04:26 PM
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ld-i-know.html
Old 11-09-18 | 04:31 PM
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Old 11-09-18 | 04:59 PM
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Very helpful thanks Mike!!
Old 11-10-18 | 11:05 AM
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Ok, got the car towed home and starting on the repair (part should be delivered on Monday). For the life of me I cannot loosen the surge nut bolts though. Any ideas?

Old 11-10-18 | 11:18 AM
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Get a long 5mm Allen wrench. Then use a nut driver for leverage. That's what I used the first time, and still do the Allen drive socket doesn't sit very well. That's why I don't use it.





Old 11-10-18 | 11:32 AM
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Another thing is when taking off the intake manifold. It gets stuck to the rear heater coolant bracket. That sits left of the throttle body. So you'll have to lift it straight up, and wiggle the bracket. Also be cautious that under the manifold rear is the wire cable to the intake runner motor. Lift up enough so you can unclip it from the manifold.

Last when assembling get all the 3 bolts started first. Which are the 10mm bolt thats in the heater hose bracket, the rear 12mm near the cold start injector rear firewall, and last the 12mm on the Valve cover. Once these are in place start securing the Allen heads first then come back and snug the 3 bolts back up snug. If you don't get these 3 bolts started first you'll find that you won't be able to get them in later after securing the manifold back down. They will be misaligned and most likely will have to do it all over again.

GL

Old 11-10-18 | 11:39 AM
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Mike, thanks again man that did it! I threw this together and tried a couple no problem...


Old 11-10-18 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by kevin3344
Mike, thanks again man that did it! I threw this together and tried a couple no problem...


The socket works, but once you get to the 2 that are in the center sleeves. The socket is a bit wide so you won't get a good seat. That's why I recommend my setup there.
Old 11-10-18 | 12:13 PM
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Haha, just saw that. One last question: do I need new gaskets for everything? Thanks again for all your help!!


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