I got the head lights installed . Left and right lighting output point out not even can they adjustable or I have to return them?What is the best HiD conversion kit close to the oem light ? Can I do 6000k? What is recommend for the fog light 5000k?. Thank you all!

agreed, 500ma might be pushing it. The fist driver module I bought works and the output is Adequate. Use in conjunction with the China controller and lowering the voltage to dim I am on the edge is flickering at times if I want to use the flasher feature of the China module. Not a deal breaker but a loss of a feature I liked. To pickup that feature I am trying this one the LEDSupply guy recommended. Its dimming is much easier then the one I bought requiring 5 volt PWM input to dim. The output can be trimmed to 75%-120% . This may bring the brightness up just where I want it. Maybe the pot dimmer part is not needed, but the trim may allow enough adjustment to break the theshold to not flicker when I try using the flasher option.

Semantics this one, that one ... we are on the target and zeroing in to its Bull’s-eye. I am sure all three drivers will work fine as long we don’t exceed 350Ma and comply with min voltage to light up.

I am pretty sure with the new one this guy recommended I can get the combination of items to get the features to work as I planed. We will see how it goes. I changed because finding 5 Volt PWM dimmers to activate its internal dimming are expensive.

Take care are and I will post this weekend on the findings I get.

Tex

only thing I saw right off is if you want a to dim you need a 0-10 pot. I would pick the 350ma version tho

It might tho to call that guy at LEDSupply and let him walk you through the differences. There is a formula based on the number of LEDs you are powering to input voltage required.
Hence you may have found another one that can work.

I truly believe we / you are just talking features between the units. They all 4 now look to work in our situation. The question is the logistics of how to dim. How to make the unit dim and then brighten up. So far all of these can be dimmed. How to get the dimming to work with the car and not pulling over and twisting a ****.

I went with a China controller. The bright dim works now. It has another feature it flashes the Led with the turn signal. This led me to discover, when dimmed, I have flickering on the LED strip when being flashed with this new led controller. With the Depo controller I did not have this issue. But the brightness output was to low for me. When dimmed it was worse.

So so full circle we are. Now which driver.... is the question.
Depenss on how your plan to dim your headlights. If using the China controller like I did. It’s works with the driver I bought. However the flasher feature I am not happy with.
So more adjustability I seek so I bought the adjustable trim output one and harness that has a pot on it. Now I have options. Sinister2c may habe the correct driver and work with a china controller. He bench tested it and it appears to be ok from a power supply. In the car it may yield a different result. I hope not tho. yeah clear as mud.

So back to your question: I approach it how are you planning on making the dim function work? Are you planning a China controller, maybe have a flasher DRL with turn signal?
or ditch the China controller and go another way.
I would work back from answering that question and lead you to which one. Of if you have time, I share if this new driver works this weekend with or without the China controlled is yet to be determined.

remimd me of let’s make a deal, door number 1, 2,or 3?

inam trying door number 2 this time and will see what’s behind it .

Take care... once I get it combination working as I like it I will report back how I made it happen. Good luck

Tex

Gotcha, you could then accomplish it many ways, but I see one of the easiest is to

option 1.
1. Buy a driver with anolog potentiometer dimming,
2. Tap key switched power and fuse it.
3. Use a replay per headlight to close the dimming circuit when headlights come on triggered by the power to the low beam. This would close the replay and complete the dimming circuit. You would have adjustable dimmed LEDs via the “Pot”. It’s a little clumsy with the two relays but simply it will work. If relay fails you have bright LED on the failed side when headlight is on.

Option 2.

1. But simmer with the trim to lower or raise output like I just bought.

2. Buy 12 dollar amazon China led controller module and wire it where the supplies battery power and the key switched power comes on together. This will send power to the led driver full brightness.

connect the trigger wire to the low beam on one headlamp to trigger the dimming function. Leave the turn signal flashing option disconnected.

done...

break out the green power wire to the led driver at the OEM connector headlight side and that where you tie the output of the China controller, and tap the low beam wire on the car side of the headlight connector for the signal to dim to the China module.

Simple and I know it works because I have that now.

If you wait just a few more days, I report back if this new dimmer works as I hope.

. Hope this helps

tex

Well, two options I see for you keeping these headlights. Do a retrofit like me and another guy did which is involved. Or install a HID bulb conversion kit.
Best kits that’s like asking Lexus or yoya , ford or Chev
but the temperature would depend what kind of driving you do, in low foggy conditions, lower temperature 4500 ish range. If clear not low vis days that much. Then 5500-6000 is really white. That’s what I prefer.
Now ballast, the quality comes how fast they warm up.
If you run 35 watt ballast then you will get true color from your bulbs, but 50-55 watt ballast will cause your bulbs to not last as long and come down in temperature like 55 watt with 6000 temp would be 5000 ish.

I haven’t seen the oem Hid personally. I ran 5500 bulbs and 35 watt ballast both fog and headlight until I retrofitted and was happy.

Good luck...