Nice you’re going all in. Yes that possible only if he Driver module will accept the outside 12 volts ... being reduced via pot or resistor and dim from it. Hense the way I went 1st, the 1st driver I bought requires 5 volt PWM signal to dim.... those I haven’t found cost effective yet.

The second opion i bought was the one with internal trim 75-120% output and has a attached dimmer loop out and back into the driver for dimming through a pot.
Not from an outside source I see yet.

The 7 dollar one you speak of I am not sure which one your referring to, what it requires to dim via the controller ifself.

If if I could find 5volt PWM dimmer units I could do just as your said, low beam on through the 5volt PWM and dim happens. But the 5 volt PWM dimmers is the issue. You have to step the voltage down to use one and have to find one possible two of them.

There still maybe a driver out there to accept out side voltage with a pot or resistor and it will dim, I just haven’t ran across it yet. I was hoping my 1st would would, but it had additional requirements of reduced 5 volts and pulse width modulated signal to activate the dimmer function. Yuk

if if you found such a driver that accepted analog pot or resistor reduced voltage from 12-14 volts from an outside source I sure be interested in it.

Looping the signal out and back to make dimming happen, I found that. But to have full brightness you have to break the loop. “Aka” relay I mentioned option 1. Headlight on, relay closes and loop restored Dim happens.

If if you find a driver that meets the requirements please forward it.... or a dual input driver I sure like to look at it.

You may may call the guy at LEDSupply and he may know of one....

more guys us looking I am sure we will find something.

Tex


clear as mid or blue sky...

yeah I hear you. Just an FYI the controller and 350Ma will work. It works now in my car fine. I just can flash the led via turn signals without flickering.

Good to know your are going for doing the retrofit. I am sore happy with mine. Mounting the projectors to Depo Mount, here is the rub. A lot of reinforcement ribs are in the rear part of the mount. As it turned out I drilled for a number 6 screw, tapped and threaded the putter metal mount just to have a way to hold the new projector in place. This would be temporary just to adjust the horizontal leveling in the car.

once I got them mounted I installed the light in the car and aimed the lights. Did my horizontal leveling of each other wihich required me using a dremal to enlarge slot the holes a touch to rotate the projector.
The threaded mount allowed me loosen the screws and adjust the rotation and hold the projectors until I remove the headlight from the car and removed the projector mount from the headlight housing with the projector in place. I then added nylon lock nuts with washers to 3 of the 4 screws long enough to extend past the mount webbing. I tigbened each nut to lock everything down and epoxied the 4 screw. The putter metal is to week to tighten the screws very much.

Thats how I did it, I am sure there are many other ways. The finish look came out very well and the alignment spot on after lens was baked back on.

I just wanted to share what I discovered, and what I did. You maybe have done these many times before. But a blueprint sometimes help. i cut a minimum hole in the back also just large enough to access the bulb.
I ended up using gorilla tape over the hole and used a 90 Degree connector to the bulb. After the headlight adjustment It is almost flush in the back. So I did not use a boot. I did add a vent that has a lock but on it. Since rhe vent had to be removed “cutt off to drill the access hole. This hole was 2 inches. I use drying agent bags and put them on the bottom of each headlong to asorb possible moisture.

Good luck with it, whether it’s your 1st or many others you have done .

Any questions send my a private message and I will do what I can to send you a picture to help explain the hurdles I faced.

Tex

i just finished a Ford F-150 last weekend for for a friend. Full monte D2s 4.0 34 watt 6000 Morimoto bulbs with relay harness that plugs into the factory hi/ low beam. That headlight assy did not have left right adjustments, Just up down. I aimed the lights before dissembling them, and they had Permaseal sealant , OMG what a witch to clean out. I had to heat each headlight 3 times and still had issues separating the lens. I was advised to remove all the permaseal and use butyle sealant to reassemble. The left right adjustment I had to dremal grind the refleator where the projector would set and tread mount straight. After installing the reflector back in the headlight housing, I put them back in the trk to align the headlight, up down and check left and right.
We got it within 1/4 of an inch at 30 feet left right. It took many tries but we did. Then I used the liquid JB weld apoxy and dabbed it all along the projector to reflector to hold it in posistion. Now removing and replacing the bulbs we want twist the projector out of alignment.

The permaseal, yeah if the Chev uses that it takes patience to clean it out, off the lens / housing.

If butyle that’s easy... Lightwerks has a YouTube vid on opening and closing lights. They recommend 240 / 20 mins oven time and works perfectly on Butyle.
Not to chance melting anything. adter separation I used a screw driver the width of the channel and drug an even layout of the old Sealant while hot.

when I went to assy, I preheated new sealant 7 mins at 240 and stretched it to fit and laid it into the areas where the it was light/ thin. On the Ford I had to lay all new sealant and filled the channel.

This buyte is easy to work with once you understand its temperature range. In this range it is plaible and stringy, as it cools it firms up. During the cooling process you can us buytle to clean excess off. Buytle sticks to itself more than anything else, so if you where to get it on tools, lens, a hard surface you can use a piece of buytle to clean the other off. So if some squeezes out, and before it cools all the way use excess buytle to clean the excess away. once it cools it gets harder to do that. So you are working in time window. I wanted to pass this info along and maybe provide some help.

Silocone gloves makes it easy to handle buytle and the hot headlamp. I tried rubber gloves and kept sticking to them. I ended up just removing the gloves and went without them.

Lightwerk on YouTube has a good video on this. That’s where I learned out it and got to practice a few times now.

Brandon there is great, if you need anything. Tell him Tex recommend you. New customers get 15 off coupon 1st order when you sign up. Brandon answers the phone!!! And was helpful on the Ford headlights.
Trips and tricks.

Take care

Tex

Yeah that’s a dollar awaiting on a dime. I don’t care for that. I build custom small ametuer built airplanes and run into that a lot. More Zeros... is all. Not to throw rocks in glass houses, Brandon impressed me with his knowledge and help at Lightwerks. I called just asking questions and not once was pushed to buy anything. When I did I called 12:30 noonish he answered and he walked me through how to get that discount applied and placed my order. He shipped it that day and did a drop shield mods on all 4 MD2S 4.0 I ordered. I ordered mine and the f150 at the same time plug upgraded bulbs for my car, and Demon Eyes.

2 days I had the stuff , shipped that day. During the sorting through things I found I needed some adapters for the hi beams, and ballast connectors from my OEM harness to the ballast since I wasn’t going to use a harness system on my car. He sent them at no chanrge 2 days and said he should have reminded me to get them. I could not have been more happy. I am sure there are complaints from someone sometimes like you had. But they treated me very good. My adverage custom avionics install on the airplanes I have built run 40-50k just for the avionics. I recieved just as good of customer service from lightwerk as I do when I spend a lot more money from my Avionics dealer for hobby built airplanes. Yes, more zeros doesn’t mean anything either.

Good luck... yeah dremel blades are at most retail hardware places.... again not trying to throw rocks in glass houses.


ISF how nice. I would sure like to test drive and possibly buy one.

Later guy...

tex

Im about to order Xenon Hid. h11b 35watts 6000k hid bulb conversion kit. Are there any other better option is Morimono brand better? Please suggest . Where can I get hid Fog what is the size for the fog lights? Thank you all again!

brand wise for can’t say, but the Fog lamps on my 2013 IS is the same H11

try Lightwerks and sign up and get 15% off first order and free shipping over a certain amount .
or call Brandon ... they treated me really good.

Better quality ballast faster warm up. 35 watt will last longer than 50-55 watt. The Hylux ballast are really good far as reliability with amp connectors.

I can’t remember the brand x I bought for my car stock halogen headlight when I did hid bulbs and they lasted
Over 2.5 years with no issues. i had to drill a hole in my Housing to get the Ballast wires in and out and it would be nice to have connectors to the Low leak to your ballast. Those are the little things that toll will make your kit be better.

Good day

my inserstanding, they lower the cut off Shield to have a little more spot. They did this on the D2S itself. Now how much is the secret I don’t know.

Lightwerks “Cesar” talked genericly in his Vids and I ask about it. They performed this mod on all 4 units I bought. I get the impression that the D2S with same bulbs and same ballast sometime give different light measurement and checking on hi beam, shield dropped all the way is the only consistent way to measure. I believe this mod is allow more stronger spot.

Tex