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Reason I went with the 1w 3v 3030 is because they put out 140to180 lumens per watt..it was the highest lumen besides going to a high powered led chip
3030 is they put out 150 to 180 lumens per watt
Yes, obe1 has already removed one old diodes..it has 4 posts on the .5w diodes...3 posts are ground and 1 of the post is power.. not sure how that's going to work with my 2 post 3030 diodes...we will see
MFer!! why would they have 3 (-) posts and 1(+) post? That puts a monkey wrench into soldering new LEDs and having a reliable solder.
I'm looking at my photos and can see it now three anode pins on the pad and the dividing trace do a diagonal cut at the corner of LED and turn down between cathode marked corner.
Originally Posted by GymRat86
Yes, obe1 has already removed one old diodes..it has 4 posts on the .5w diodes...3 posts are ground and 1 of the post is power.. not sure how that's going to work with my 2 post 3030 diodes...we will see
Holy crap..these 3030 LEDs are tiny as crap... I guess I'm going to have to buy a magnafing glass to solder these things, and good thing I bought a new solder kit for tiny LED diodes with the leds. Looks like it's going to be a pain in the ***..I pray they will be brighter and last
im looking for 30. Enough to do DRL with some extras in case.
fWIW here are close ups of the existing chips.
would you plead pm me your info so i could send you LEDs.
PS mine LED IS 2 terminal so you would have to solder it side way ( little offset like what i do) Let me know if you need anything beside it.
Well guys I have decided to start scratch and retrofit with an led to assure the amount of brightness I want and work back from that, I rather turn down to what I want rather not to be able to turn up.
I started by remaking the boards out of aluminum.032 t3 . Why heat sink, when I bought a Cree XPG2 6500 single star led I was advised to watch the heat. These are overkill LEDs. 3 watt capable "1500Ma". I tested one on a adjustable power supply and connect a 1ohm resistor in line on the input line of the led. Measure the volt drop to determine MA accurately. Free air, 70 degrees f and 700 Ma 2 watt, the led went straight close to 160 f. At 350 ma around 130 ish. I decided to heat sink
To protect them and have hi output if so desired.
Next I relocated the center of the led to allow better off center viewing....
Mount led led and series wired them.
Now everything together start testing... the led at 2 Watts is omg bright, but as I mentioned work back from that. Heat around the 3 closet together, 150 f. At 2 Watts 700 MA. Heat sink is working... compared to one...
Now together and both Depo LEDs "1/2 watt at 1 watt driver" and new LEDs at 1 watt 350 driver and here are the results
I think you could agree a much better output and off center viewing.
At 1 watt.
Here at 2 watt new and 1 watt old is a lot brighter. So 2 Watts is not needed.
Next dim the new driver to max output circuit a.that I want and then use b circuit lower resistance for headlights on, more dim than a. A relay to switch between a and b.
That's one method
The second is current limit supply to both drivers for a dimmer circuit, and that's the dim, and full 350 ma for normal day.
I am still working through the details on that. But so far.... 1st set are working and now should not burn out.
In working on a current limit device now to limit the supply current for the dim to about 100MA each.
Prototype 1 done and now own to the dimming them.
Lastly. Another forum guy came up with like to cut the LEDs off. When turn signal comes on. I bought a programmable relay Timmer to do just that very thing. It will cut the led off when turn signals act active per side.
I have completed my Dim system and make adjustments to the driver output. Daytime- is 350MA and nighttime when headlights come on dimmer to 100Ma output.
This is a quick relay with two Diodes. I series together they are daytime turned down output of 350 ma instead of 700 2watts. When headlights turn on, relay closes and one diode in series in the dimmer loop therefore dim output now of 100Ma. The values of the diodes allowed just enough to drop on the dimmer circuit loop to make these values work out. The dimmer loop circuit to adjust the output of the diver is .2 to 1.3 volts ... 1.3 volts it full output. .3 volts is 100Ma. I did not measure the voltage at 350 ma. Sorry.
So guys it was a bust on soldering new LEDs into the old spots...I got one led to light up but I'm just going to go with the LEDs that Todd used on his LED build..lmfao...and I'm not putting this headlight back together or back on the car until done..so I'm be riding around with one headlight...lmfao
I have completed my Dim system and make adjustments to the driver output. Daytime- is 350MA and nighttime when headlights come on dimmer to 100Ma output.
This is a quick relay with two Diodes. I series together they are daytime turned down output of 350 ma instead of 700 2watts. When headlights turn on, relay closes and one diode in series in the dimmer loop therefore dim output now of 100Ma. The values of the diodes allowed just enough to drop on the dimmer circuit loop to make these values work out. The dimmer loop circuit to adjust the output of the diver is .2 to 1.3 volts ... 1.3 volts it full output. .3 volts is 100Ma. I did not measure the voltage at 350 ma. Sorry.
I wanted to follow up on the progress of the Led retrofit.
FYI the boards are Mirror image of each other. If you where to trace and cut out of raw material two boards, and once you match drill, shape, and deburr flip one and that is the opposing side.
I got the other side LEDs mounted and wired. I cut the pigtail harness connector off at the circuit board and solder spliced and heat shrinks the connections from the pigtail to the new boards.
I then wired the delay timer, diodes, new driver, and relay together. I bench tested and everything works as planned. Now the next thing it the two tap connections made, one headlight on to activate the relay for dim, and the other turn signal to cut the Led strip when turn signal is on same side. The rest is plug and play.
There are three wires on the delay timer, two are configuration wires that your ground in sequences to program the timer / rely. They are used ones configured. I will put heat shrink on these unused wires. There is one additional wire on driver and I will not use it too, and put a price of heat shrink on it too.
The yellow and blue are the only two wires that need now to be connected.
It can be,as a whole but I promise is straight forward. One thing at a time. If I was a drafter I could draw it out. I can on a napkin...
I got one complete and haven’t had time to do the other side. But blueprint is done, the 1st one is the hard one. Marking everything fit in the housing wasn’t that hard after all. There may have neen a simpler solution, but I went a way for easy available of parts if need to service later without having to bake open except for a led failure. I set out to buy quality LEDs, and not drive them near max output. So they should last, 3 watt LEDs capable driven at 1 watt on bright, and about 1/2 watt on dim. 86-87-87A relays are available most auto parts stores, eBay and Amazon. They are switching 1.2 amps which is nothing... a smaller form factor really could have done it. These plug in and unplug, simple for the dim to work. The turn signal cut delay timer is 5 amp rating switching 1.2 agai. Light load. They are small form factor. But they are 15.00 bucks each and takes 2-3 days to get them.
If you run up a situation and need help, drop me a message.. I would be glad to help all I can.
04-30-18, 09:39 AM
