ExtraZero8

Hello all. I have an '08 IS250 AWD. The pads have been squealing at me for replacement. Over the past year I've noticed there is a lip on the front rotors, and that the rear calipers are seized at the bottom (rusty rotors except for about 1cm in the middle on both sides)

There is no dealership in my town so I took it to a well-rated local brake shop and I told them what I knew. Obviously new pads all around and they said they could turn the fronts but that the rear rotors were just below thickness spec. I find this odd because the rears have been seized for so long that I don't know how they should be scrapped. So question 1. What is a realistic spec for safe rear rotors?

Next, I've read a bunch of threads about brands of pads. Given differences in websites, I've had difficulty matching pad recommendations and model years to actual part numbers I can order on a site like RockAuto or something. I'm bringing in my own pads because the shops double the price for parts. Raybestos, Duralast, Akebono, whatever, I don't really care about brake dust I just want a safe car. So question 2: Can anybody give me direct links to front and rear sets that will work for my vehicle?

Question 3 is easy, is RockAuto trustworthy for parts these days? I haven't used them in a while.

Thanks so much for your time. I don't want to rear-end anybody if I can just get the pads ordered and let the shop machine the rotors

Aspect

Rockauto is trust worthy. The website might not look the best but I've ordered parts from them a few times and they've all arrived with no problems. You might be able to find some of the same things off amazon if you search and usually amazon will tell you if it'll fit if you add your vehicle. Their prices are awesome and shipping comes in reasonable time.

On rock auto if you look up brake pads under Lexus -> 2008 -> IS250 you'll find all the compatible brake pads they sell
Pretty sure these are the Akebono pads everyone raves about
Front: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...441482&jsn=399
Rear: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...441482&jsn=394

If your rear calipers are seized it'd make a lot of sense that the rear rotors would be toast compared to the front as the pads would be constantly dragging against the rotor as you drive everyday and never fully disengaged. I doubt your calipers seized and locked up your rear wheels all this time, else you'd need brand new rear tires as well since you'd have massive flat spots. You should prob check your tires for bald spots if you suspect that to be the case anyways. You might as well order some new rotors while you're ordering the pads. Our rear rotors aren't that expensive and it's not worth compromising safety. A quick google search tells me that the minimum thickness of the front rotor is 25mm and 8.5mm in the rear, which you can measure yourself with a caliper tool and some coins.

ExtraZero8

Thanks for all the info. I should say that the rears are seized in a way that there is almost zero contact between the pads and the rotors. I'll see if I can get a good picture of each in a second here. As you might have guessed I'm on a budget here, but I just want to provide all of the information before I go buying new rotors if I don't actually have to

Viru

I've never used coins while measuring rotor thickness - could you please elaborate on this?

Aspect

sometimes there's a lip on the rotor that forms after a lot of use so if you just use the caliper on the rotor it won't be the correct reading. Pretty sure the inner portion of the rotor wears faster than the outside because that's where the pads mostly contact iirc

ExtraZero8

Aspect

If you know the rear calipers are seized, I'd highly recommend replacing them.

Viru

Makes sense actually - so you just subtract the known/theoretical thickness of the coins from your reading?

I second this. Definitely go ahead and replace them, brakes are not something you want to take a risk on.

ExtraZero8

The rear calipers were seized in a way that they didn't wear the rotors much at all. If you look at the pictures you can see the pads barely contacted. In 25k miles since I last had the rear rotors replaced (that was at Lexus back when I lived near) there isn't if a hint of a lip on them. Did they use epoxy and cyanoacrylate instead of lubricant on the calipers? Do I drive too much like a grandma? I don't know, I'm open to theory.

My tires are pretty new, not from any previous bald spots but because the front rubber on these cars get shredded at the sides if you have to do a lot of tight parking. No lock-ups ever.

I agree 100% it would be best to replace them. And I appreciate the concern. But times are hard and I'd rather work with the existing calipers than risk getting booted by the landlord literally next week. This is not hyperbole, I do not have the money.

Viru

I see...there might be one way of getting this to work, if the brake pistons seem stuck in a retracted position - but it's a long shot. Pull out the pads and spray some brake cleaner around the edges of the piston (minimizing contact with rubber surfaces). If this area is very grimy, gently clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Reinsert pads, and try a few hard stops (doesn't need to be fast, but apply brakes firmly). Repeat this at least once, until your rear brakes start acting. You might even notice the rotor surfaces getting cleaned up. Good luck!

Aspect

well what I did before I knew my calipers were seized was just take everything apart, clean it, and relube everything. Might be a good alternative if you have the tools, time and supplies