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I just wanted to start off by saying that I am not the owner of the Lexus, It is my dads but i will be doing work on it soon.
He wants to replace all 4 of his struts and i said i could do the work for him to save him a couple hundred bucks. so my question is, besides the struts themselves, what other parts do i need to order and where is the best place to order them?
I did our 07' Is350 rear struts a couple of months ago. No special tools needed. Watch a youtube video, that will help out a lot. I bought some discontinued new kyb's on ebay for $150 for the rears. Hardest part was probably getting the bolts back into the control arms but a large breaker bar helped that. I needed no other parts than the struts themselves and I did get an alignment after the job. Do it yourself and save the $$
I just wanted to start off by saying that I am not the owner of the Lexus, It is my dads but i will be doing work on it soon.
He wants to replace all 4 of his struts and i said i could do the work for him to save him a couple hundred bucks. so my question is, besides the struts themselves, what other parts do i need to order and where is the best place to order them?
The vehicle is a 2007 IS250 2wd.
Thank you
My 2011 had dust boots ripped when I removed the suspension 2 weeks ago, I ended up buying 2 new strut mounts from RockAuto.
When you take the shocks out of the car, use a marker or piece of tape to mark the position of top mount how it lines up with the rest of the strut. After you swap springs, line up top and bottom the same way you took them out, it will be much easier to insert them back in the car when the top bolts line up with the bottom one.
Good luck.
Mounts and bellows don't come with. You'll be getting and alignment anyway so go over everything and replace anything with play now rather than paying for an alignment again. I redid most of my front suspension at the same time to get rid of some clunks and shakes.
Something overlooked that kills new shocks is HOW AND WHEN you tighten the lower bolt.
When the suspension is hanging down at full travel and that lower pinch bolt is tightened it destroys the lower shock bushing in short order as it should ONLY BE TIGHTENED when the car has full weight on the tires AND the control arms are level.
This applies to all rubber bonded bushings at all pivot points. Do the job right the first time or do it over in a month....
Other tricks for insuring bushings are tightened at the proper ride height (neutral position) is to measure down from a fixed height.
Example: while on the ground measure from the fenders edge to the center of the hub. Lets say the front is 14" and the rear is 15". With the shock & spring out, lift the hub to obtain those values. Secure any rubber bonded bushings at their pivot point.
Taking that a step further; measure from fender liner to the ball joint(s). Now simply hold the A - arm/control arm at that ## and tighten the bolts. Install shocks and lower the car onto ramps. This method leaves only the shocks lower pinch bolt to be tightened. It is OK to push a control beyond its range momentarily to install the shock.
I swapped LCA Bushings for ISF bushings and left the big nut loose until the nose was bearing full weight and tightened the nuts in their neutral position. They have equal range of motion both up and down when done this way.
04-24-18, 08:46 AM
Replacing Struts
