seanmwple

2012 lexus is 250 RWD 118594 Miles

The issue with the car was it was jumpy, awful control that got worse at higher speeds, wandering steering, aggressive drifting, etc etc. Had alignments and new tires didn't work so now I had both driver and passenger side front lower control arms replaced and also the front rearward LCA bushings replaced 3 days ago. The parts are brand new and the bushings are OEM lexus parts and the control arms are Moog suspension brand.


Anyway.... When i make turns I can hear creaking noises now underneath. Could this just be the parts loosening up or is it a bad sign?

I originally thought my shocks and struts needed to be fixed but I haven't replaced them yet.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Did you check if lube was applied to the Rear LCA main bolts?

It tends to creak like you mention. I pulled mine a few months back, and went overboard on the grease. On the main rear bolt and once boltted to the frame. I pumped more before tightening the rear 22mm nut on the bushings.

Aspect

yeah the rear mount lca bushing creaks a lot if you don't put enough grease on it. I have to re lube mine soon cause it creaks like a **** when parking

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

For those with rubber bonded LCAB at the rear, there is ZERO need to grease a sleeve or anywhere near a rubber bushing. Those with urethane, the urethane inner liner to the bushing outer sleeve needs silicone lubricant or it will bind and creak.

Any who, several videos from supposedly intelligent people portray the need to grease the lower control arm stub where the sleeve slides over. This is nonsense for EITHER PRODUCT. The inner sleeve does not move here if tightened properly.

The only time something needs greased is if there is urethane involved. All other cases, perhaps a micro thin film is OK to prevent rust from bonding the parts together but beyond that, grease degrades rubber and should not be in contact with any vulcanized rubber part as it leads to failure.

The most likely cause of creaking is something being loose (metal on metal movement) OR improper assembly process. All rubber bonded bushings must be torqued to spec when the suspension is at normal vehicle ride height or the bushings will be damaged by over-rotation. i.e. people assemble the all these new parts including OEM coil over shocks with the suspension hanging down. Then when the car is at ride height under its own load the rubber bushings are bound up and eventually destroyed from over rotation.

Get the suspension at ride height before tightening rubber bonded bushings.

Aspect

Not to derail the thread but where exactly should I regrease the LCA bushing? I'm planning on doing it sometime this week as the noise has gotten a little annoying and makes my car seem broken to everyone.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Aspect, you have figs LCAB yes? Grease the inner liner of the urethane bushing where the sleeve enters. So you grease the outside of the sleeve, inside of bushing, and the thrust surface.

A tube video shows a guy liberally greasing the threads and shank of the control arm. Wrong! Nothing pivots or moves there if the nut is tight.
Makes sense yes?

Aspect

Thanks man. Will do.

seanmwple

What kind of lube should I use ? Can I apply it myself without removing the bushing and LCA??

Aspect

I just fixed my creaking. Mine was a subframe bolt(the big one that torques down to 120ft/lbs)I almost cross threaded the entire thing so it had some play even when fully tightened. Luckily it was salvageable and no more squeaks.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

If it's on the RR bushings. I used SuperPro, and Prothane grease packs I had extra. The rubber OEM you'd have to use something that won't degrade the rubber.

For Reference:

http://www.suspension.com/blog/the-best-grease-for-polyurethane-bushings/

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

The one that goes through the subframe 22mm?

I always hold the subframe in place with an extra jack. To keep it from dropping. This helps me putting the bolt back in easy, and removing the load when tightening back up.

Aspect

Yeah... I had my mechanic/friend look at it on the hoist. He then said the same thing about supporting the subframe when working on it. I just had the wheel loaded up a bit to relieve some tension. Oh well, live and learn lol. I wouldn't want to know how much that bolt would cost. He cleaned up the threads and the hole a bit and it went in like a charm. DIY fail on my part lol

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Glad you found that soon! ^^

And no, you dont have to pull the lca, just block body so the suspension is unloaded (hanging), and cross member. Tho I didn't on my RWD and the subframe never moved.

- but NO greasing OEM bushings! Period!
Its like getting oil on your brake parts. Rubber swells and disolves = Fails!

seanmwple

I have the oem bushings. So I don't grease/lube them at all???

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Did you look at post #4?