When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hey guys, this is probably a dumb question for most, but it makes me so confident when i hear it on here straight shooting from guys who know what they are talking about. ive been simply amazed with some things i see, like high level mechanics and lexus techs with 30 years experience. just awesome.
i have an IS250 2006 V6-4GR-FSE # $GR0158921, VIN JTHCK26265004080 Japan build. im not really sure if this is the model engine with the problem? no history of it being addressed initially or with Lexus's extenuated care plan for the issue. ive been around with Lexus about it and there nothing i can get from them at this point. it uses alot of oil, way more than whats talked about in the threads of the subject in the forum. no sweet smell or smoke. i ran sea foam i didnt see much. in the way of white smoke.THE ENGINE OIL IS COMPLETELY BLACK IN UNDER 1000 MILES. my camry goes 5k before it even tinges.
my question is, does removing the motor and rebuilding it fix the problem, or is something inherent to the design parameters that cannot be altered? i just dont know . a smart persons words on the matter would be gratefully appreciated.
also, can someone point me to HOW TO DO A SMOKE TEST. I understand the premise and how it works, but what i see is guys having the computer and manually closing the vent solenoid. its a gross and minor leak in the rear in the EVAP. of course the dealer told me to replace the canister..lol, like clockwork.
this car i worked so hard for the money to get was dumped on me. i thought i was diligent, but not enough. so many problems...
I'm not a high level mechanic or lexus tech but regarding the carbon buildup issues it is a looming problem for all years of the IS250 because of direct injection. IS350 avoids this by having port and direct injection which allows it to burn off and clean the valves during operation. The lexus service for the issue is an engine rebuild with updated pistons and seals I believe which were introduced in 2011? It is still entirely possible to get carbon buildup after the fact and newer IS's can still get carbon buildup. The solution is to find an audi/VW/bmw/subaru shop to media blast the intake valves. I've had it done at 120k kms and plan to do so again when I hit 240k kms. I've never had my car display symptoms but did it as preventative maintenance.
[QUOTE=Aspect;10196603]I'm not a high level mechanic or lexus tech but regarding the carbon buildup issues it is a looming problem for all years of the IS250 because of direct injection. IS350 avoids this by having port and direct injection which allows it to burn off and clean the valves during operation. The lexus service for the issue is an engine rebuild with updated pistons and seals I believe which were introduced in 2011? It is still entirely possible to get carbon buildup after the fact and newer IS's can still get carbon buildup. The solution is to find an audi/VW/bmw/subaru shop to media blast the intake valves. I've had it done at 120k kms and plan to do so again when I hit 240k kms. I've never had my car display symptoms but did it as preventative maintenance.
[/QU thanks for this informative reply. finding the right mechanic as you stated is defiantly a problem. theres no good mechanics in my town, only greasy crooks and criminal dealerships. whats your opinion on sea foam? is there a way to tell if i have a build up (ive read that its not a sure thing that yous will have a problem)? and would continuous regular maintenance including carbon build up treatment like seafoam make any head way on the problem?
There's a lot of debate on seafoam. I think the consensus is that with DI the seafoam if input through the gas won't be able to reach the valves, i can't remember what the seafoam through the intake results were like. You can tell you have carbon buildup from day to day driving, like sluggish throttle response, hesitation to accelerate, and troouble idling etc. You could take off the intake manifolds and etc and take a peak with a flashlight if you want. Going on longer trips where the car gets a chance to warm up and going wide open throttle frequently would be good to reduce the rate of buildup but won't reduce the amount built up. Installing an oil catch can can reduce the rate of buildup as well, I can't remember the theory behind it, but it filters out the oil in the pcv blowback system or something? anyways, I've installed a catch can and every 5k-10k kms I empty out this brown sludge oil and water mixture.
Yamaha motors makes a product called ring free. Its expensive and concentrated. I would start there for your oil control problem.
How is the car used? Does it ever get long drives, opened up?
Seafoam could help but remember thats years of accumulation on those valves so a 10 min dose into the intake is not going to do much. Its needs hours of small doses like when at cruise fog it in. So not a simple task for most.
We could rig something up but try the Ring Free, it Will help unless your engine is completely shot, and if you plan to keep the car, consider the catch can. If you really want to brain storm an injector, its possible to inject either at will or use a vacuum switch, pump, reservoir and orfice.
Maybe set you back $100 in materials?
Yamaha motors makes a product called ring free. Its expensive and concentrated. I would start there for your oil control problem.
How is the car used? Does it ever get long drives, opened up?
Seafoam could help but remember thats years of accumulation on those valves so a 10 min dose into the intake is not going to do much. Its needs hours of small doses like when at cruise fog it in. So not a simple task for most.
We could rig something up but try the Ring Free, it Will help unless your engine is completely shot, and if you plan to keep the car, consider the catch can. If you really want to brain storm an injector, its possible to inject either at will or use a vacuum switch, pump, reservoir and orfice.
Maybe set you back $100 in materials?
Clear engine deposits with a concentrated cleaner.
Take back the power and efficiency lost by carbon and varnish deposits caused by pour fuel quality. You can’t always count on getting the best fuel, Ring-Free is the solution. Yamalube Ring-Free is a highly concentrated fuel additive that removes carbon build-up from injectors, carburetors, intake valve, intake ports and combustion chambers. Formulated to combat corrosive element of the added sulfur in Ethanol blended fuels to keep fuel system electronic components and fittings in top shape. Ring-Free is designed to be used continuously and can be used with Yamalube Fuel Stabilizer and Conditioner PLUS without harmful effects. Keep your engine running smoothly even when your fuel source isn’t top quality by using Yamalube Ring-Free fuel additive.
Key Features
Concentrated engine cleaner that clears deposits, prevents varnish and carbon build up
Improves power and efficiency in two and four-stroke engines
There's a lot of debate on seafoam. I think the consensus is that with DI the seafoam if input through the gas won't be able to reach the valves, i can't remember what the seafoam through the intake results were like. You can tell you have carbon buildup from day to day driving, like sluggish throttle response, hesitation to accelerate, and troouble idling etc. You could take off the intake manifolds and etc and take a peak with a flashlight if you want. Going on longer trips where the car gets a chance to warm up and going wide open throttle frequently would be good to reduce the rate of buildup but won't reduce the amount built up. Installing an oil catch can can reduce the rate of buildup as well, I can't remember the theory behind it, but it filters out the oil in the pcv blowback system or something? anyways, I've installed a catch can and every 5k-10k kms I empty out this brown sludge oil and water mixture.
i have no idea what you mean a sludge can. im not being cute or anything, i really dont know what you mean. put it where? with the oil filter?
[QUOTE=2013FSport;10200777]Yamaha motors makes a product called ring free. Its expensive and concentrated. I would start there for your oil control problem.
How is the car used? Does it ever get long drives, opened up?
well i bought it in december, and i put about 4k on it until march using it for delivery when the roads are bad. theres no idle problem. sometimes i do feel like there a "kick" but i t doesnt feel like what you describe. i think it has to do with the EVAP leaks, im also getting codes for crankshaft sensors too. somebody dumped this car on me with a lot of problems. but this is gonna be my baby. i have no choice but to do the majority of things myself.
i drive her hard. she gets opened up alot.
found that catch can. its amazing see ive read alot on this carbon problem, this is the first ive ever head of this catch can thing. see when you call out the smart ones you get the job done.
There a many who swear by the ring free product. Do search and order from whoever....
So far so good on the 350, oil consumption in 4k mi is zero and the oil stays mostly clear up to 3000 mi or so. Its coming up on 65,000 mi. I throw Chevron Techron in it 3x a year as the weather transitions. All seems well.
1) Drive it on the open highway for long periods of time...not farting around either
2) Use a low noack oil (Google it or go to BITOG)
3) Use a product that has PEA in it. Seafoam was made for marine motors, not modern cars. Gumout, Redline and Techroline
4) Limit stop and go as much as possible
5) Catch can
6) Check oil 1x per week and smell. If you smell gasoline dilution, you're gonna need to lower your OCI's to 4-5K.
1) Drive it on the open highway for long periods of time...not farting around either
2) Use a low noack oil (Google it or go to BITOG)
3) Use a product that has PEA in it. Seafoam was made for marine motors, not modern cars. Gumout, Redline and Techroline
4) Limit stop and go as much as possible
5) Catch can
6) Check oil 1x per week and smell. If you smell gasoline dilution, you're gonna need to lower your OCI's to 4-5K.
05-10-18, 11:07 PM
questions on the carbon build problem
Yamaha Ring Free
