ramkumarb

Has anyone attempted this on their AWD? Can this be done w/o touching the subframe at all?

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

There's really now room to work. When I was doing my rack bushings, and front sway bar. The sub frame is in the way it will be hard to snake it out.

What's wrong with your steering rack?

ramkumarb

P/S light comes on after car's been running for 15-20 mins. Fine at cold start. Dealer without reading the code told me to replace the rack. He strongly feels that way from experience.

IS250 repair manual says to take engine and tranny out to get to the rack. I found that a textbook type approach and unwanted.

How did you do the rack bushings? You must have had the rack come off. So is dropping the subframe easy? Thoughts?

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

There's enough room for you to wiggle the rack. The OEM bushings are s PITA to remove. With some foul language and determination I removed them

Yes that's seems about right dropping the subframe for clearance. That's one of my regrets of purchasing the AWD. It's a pain if work needs to be done like that. The front sway bar requires the front subframe to be lowered. You can't snake it out once removed.

Here's what the rack bushings look like:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/863983-steering-rack-bushings.html

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Have you considered maybe it's just the Power Steering ECU?

I would try the cheapest route first. Dealerships are always trying to stick it to you.

ramkumarb

Greatly appreciated.

Well in this case the dealer's response left me surprised! He only wanted 2.5 hrs of labor and alignment and asked me to bring my own rack used or aftermarket purchased. Don't have to worry about the diagnostic fee if I did that. I found used OEM on ebay for cheap.

Looks like you've only gone through this exercise recently. I'll try to do it myself if I can wiggle it out w/o lowering the subframe. But how hard is it to lower the subframe and putting it back if need be?

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

The subframe is not hard to lower. It's just 4 big bolts. 2 up front , and 2 rear. The ones that hold the lower control arm busing in place. Though you will have to support the frame with 2 jacks. Again one up front, and one rear center.
It makes the job easier to help raise it back in place. I'll try to find the AWD PDF on how to install the front sway bar. You have to remove some steering rack plugs and wiring out of the way.

Then from there you can see how much if any you need to drop. I'm curious also how the dealership would do it to remove the rack. As it did take me about 2 hrs to install my sway bar solo. The bolts you will need at least a 1/2 drive ratchet, and cheater bar. They are torqued very well.

Look on this thread post #1000
Aspect uploaded the PDFs for the AWD
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/389979-official-f-sport-sway-bar-thread-67.html

If you remove the rack. Please let us know the process.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

2nd vote for looking at the steering ecu connections. Because the battery is above, there is a chance that corrosion inside the connector is a factor. I would definitely start there long before pulling the R&P!

Be sure to do a diagonal measurement from fixed equal points on the sub frame to fixed equal points on the body. Record these values before pulling the sub frame.
In short the sub frame locates the lower A arms. Moving it/not returning it to original location could change caster, camber, set back and thr alignment tech (if not on their game) will say it cant be fixed. But all you need to do is loosen the bolts, float it back to the measured values and secure it.

JM2C but if you secure the engine from above (they make tools for this) or use a 4x6 across the shock towers and a chain, you free up space to work below. If nothing else its cheap insurance if a jack slips.

Last word of caution; when it comes time to disconnect the steering shaft from the rack, center the rack turns wise left to right and run the seat belt through the steering wheel. The reason being you do not want the wheel to spin ever as it has coiled clock springs that can only turn so many turns left or right. It must remain centered. Make sense. Its more cheap insurance.

ramkumarb

The PDFs were clear. Thank you. The one that I got from alldatadiy.com has it differently. Basically wants you to remove the engine and tranny to get to the rack. Lowering the subframe seems reasonable and feasible within the labor hour the dealer quoted. Will try to get the rack removed even without worrying about the subframe.

ramkumarb

Thanks for that advice. Points noted on loosening the subframe mounts and securing the steering wheel with the seat belt.

ramkumarb

So how do I get the subframe to drop after the 4 bolts are loosened enough. It seems to held hard.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

If you loosen the bolts like in the instructions. It wil only drop a few inches. If you want to remove it completely. Unbolt the motor mounts, and support the engine with a hoist. The lower control arms will have to be loosened from the subframe as well.

ramkumarb

The nuts in the front are loose to the end of the stud but the frame still don't hang loose. In this case the rack can never be removed without the subframe giving that clearance needed to dislodge the steering shaft from the rack.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Did you unplug the connections at the steering rack? It should drop to some degree. It has the weight of the engine on it. Like I said before it's only enough room to snake in the front bar. The steering rack is a whole lot bigger. It might require the entire subframe to come off.

While your under study the layout. You'll see what needs to be removed if it comes to it.

ramkumarb

I did unplug everything on the rack. It surprised me when I saw no drop after loosening the front nuts from the stud. You are right. This might be an effort needing subframe removal because it needs 2in clearance to wiggle it out at a minimum.