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Yeah, wow.... i was in the same predicament thinking I installed it wrong and or something was misaligned. I would buy a used one from the junkyard to try it out as its a lot cheaper than a new one to see if that solves your problem. Carparts has them for fairly cheap now.... The quality between oem and aftermarket really is night and day. There is a lot play by the joints in the aftermarket but the oem was super stiff. If I remember right, were you the one that installed washers for transmount to raise it up so the suspension geometry didn’t change too much?
Do you bag out your car while it parking all the time? Im have to say if you do that added stress even if you not driving it.
Also airring out isn't the problem here. Bc we are literally changing out the Axle for a new one, driving it down the highway for 10-15 min and it fails .
Can you guys get your car on a lift and measure the actual angle of the axle? Then measure the camber angle. Somehow I don't see this exceeding the steering angles.
What needs checked (said it before) is freeplay.
If the axle is bound // smashed into the diff // this could lead to much higher friction and temperatures. Thus failure.
In short when the car is at normal ride height AND IN NEUTRAL with the wheels straight, the in board joint will be free to move up and down only constrained by the axle stub into the diff. Put your hand on it and move it up and down.
Now lower the car to your typical ride height and repeat test. Does the axle have freedom to move? If not, it's being loaded in a manor that kills it. And something has to give.
Mind you the RWD 250, 350, & IS-F as well as the GS all take the same axle. Power is not killing them.
Can you guys get your car on a lift and measure the actual angle of the axle? Then measure the camber angle. Somehow I don't see this exceeding the steering angles.
What needs checked (said it before) is freeplay.
If the axle is bound // smashed into the diff // this could lead to much higher friction and temperatures. Thus failure.
In short when the car is at normal ride height AND IN NEUTRAL with the wheels straight, the in board joint will be free to move up and down only constrained by the axle stub into the diff. Put your hand on it and move it up and down.
Now lower the car to your typical ride height and repeat test. Does the axle have freedom to move? If not, it's being loaded in a manor that kills it. And something has to give.
Mind you the RWD 250, 350, & IS-F as well as the GS all take the same axle. Power is not killing them.
Theres a lot of play moving back and forth and up and down on the driver side which is failing. Passenger side not so much and it's fine
Alright guys looks like I'm back in business .so after much research looks like other cars on numerous forums have had this issue, and it all narrows down to 3 things, 1) chrap axles, 2) issues with the motor mounts, 3 issues with the transmission mount .so I had everything checked and it was all clear. Went to Pepboys and they heard the same issue from multiple people so they recommended one of their axles which was $171 vs the ones I was getting around $90 . So far so good no issues no leaks.
08-09-18, 07:08 PM
