2GR-FSE Engine rebuild (2008 IS350)
10-25-18 | 06:53 AM
#31
Good so far, about 6k miles driven so far after the repair. The sound hasn't returned, and I've done oil analysis with Blackstone and so far it looks OK. I also have a tensioner pulley issue, the pulley sounds bad when I put a stethoscope up to it. That is next on the fixing block, I'm just not really looking forward to disconnecting my A/C system lol.
10-25-18 | 07:09 AM
#32
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 88
Likes: 4
From: Onatrio
Update
So, Update...
Found and purchased a good used Crankshaft, a new conrod, and everything to completely rebuild this 3.5L. All in the total bill equaled $740 USD including the crankshaft.
Here is the list of what I've purchased so far for the build:
Water pump
10 x Oil filters
Air Filter
Headbolts
Piston Rings
Timing Set (Chains and tensioners)
Injectors (Direct) (Used but better than mine)
Injectors (Port) (used but better than mine)
Crankshaft
Main Crankshaft Bearings
Crankshaft
Thrust washer set
One Connecting Rod
Connecting Rod Bearings
Engine Head Gasket
Engine Lower Gasket
Engine gasket sealant
12 Intake Valves
12 Exhaust Valves
Valve seals
Timing Crank Sprocket
Rear Main Seal
Front Main Seal
Oil pump
Assembly Lube
Block is cleaned, cylinders have been honed, Everything has been media blasted that could be, washed, cleaned, carbon removed, blah blah blah...
Next step for me is a stage 1 port and polish on the heads, polish the intake, Polish the throttle body, then begin reassembly.
Found and purchased a good used Crankshaft, a new conrod, and everything to completely rebuild this 3.5L. All in the total bill equaled $740 USD including the crankshaft.
Here is the list of what I've purchased so far for the build:
Water pump
10 x Oil filters
Air Filter
Headbolts
Piston Rings
Timing Set (Chains and tensioners)
Injectors (Direct) (Used but better than mine)
Injectors (Port) (used but better than mine)
Crankshaft
Main Crankshaft Bearings
Crankshaft
Thrust washer set
One Connecting Rod
Connecting Rod Bearings
Engine Head Gasket
Engine Lower Gasket
Engine gasket sealant
12 Intake Valves
12 Exhaust Valves
Valve seals
Timing Crank Sprocket
Rear Main Seal
Front Main Seal
Oil pump
Assembly Lube
Block is cleaned, cylinders have been honed, Everything has been media blasted that could be, washed, cleaned, carbon removed, blah blah blah...
Next step for me is a stage 1 port and polish on the heads, polish the intake, Polish the throttle body, then begin reassembly.
Last edited by KIS350; 10-25-18 at 07:16 AM.
10-25-18 | 07:14 AM
#33
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 88
Likes: 4
From: Onatrio
Good so far, about 6k miles driven so far after the repair. The sound hasn't returned, and I've done oil analysis with Blackstone and so far it looks OK. I also have a tensioner pulley issue, the pulley sounds bad when I put a stethoscope up to it. That is next on the fixing block, I'm just not really looking forward to disconnecting my A/C system lol.
I hear you with the A/C...you'll for sure have spit out a few four letter words and smashed up your knuckles through that one.
10-25-18 | 08:00 AM
#34
Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 11
From: IL
Thanks for that. I believe it was oil not getting to the conrod journals. I do intend on checking for cracks throughout and checking the oil galleys for blockages. I would like to find a used short block and build off that. It's just difficult to find 2GR-FSE parts and used engines up here. However there are lots of 2GR-FE engines and parts as they seem to be in more of the desired vehicles.
With regards to the pounding versus spun, I'm not totally sure. The bearings are spun almost to nothing. If they were pounded at first I can't tell now. I had a tensioner failure and I believe it may have something to do with the bottom end damage...maybe because it's easy to think that. Lol
The oil pump is not scored. When I pulled the motor out I honestly prioritized getting to the oil pump because I felt that I was going to find a failure there. That was before I got to the crank and saw the damage. But to my surprise the oil pump was in great shape...
I totally agree with the path of least resistance...I havent found a missing plug. There was nothing in the oil anyways and no visible issues either. But for sure I have to have it tested and cleaned out. The oil was full of large chips of steel...more so than fine particles. So the breakdown happened really fast versus slow wear to a melt down.
I'm going to post some pics of everything for you to look at. If nothing else it's some engine gore ****.
I've found conflicting information about the compatibility of the short block between the 2GR-FE and the 2GR-FSE. I've read enough to see that it's identicle from the conrod pin down. Bore, stroke, pitch. Both are forged in respect to conrods and crankshaft. Cyclinder sleeves are the same. It starts to change at the pistons and then almost everything above the deck is different.
But then I read part numbers and their part numbers are different...or sellers post that the fitment doesnt include the 5th digit VIN "E" IS350...
I feel pretty ignorant on it as I don't know enough about the vast variety of models and engine differences to be confident.
I'll post pics...
With regards to the pounding versus spun, I'm not totally sure. The bearings are spun almost to nothing. If they were pounded at first I can't tell now. I had a tensioner failure and I believe it may have something to do with the bottom end damage...maybe because it's easy to think that. Lol
The oil pump is not scored. When I pulled the motor out I honestly prioritized getting to the oil pump because I felt that I was going to find a failure there. That was before I got to the crank and saw the damage. But to my surprise the oil pump was in great shape...
I totally agree with the path of least resistance...I havent found a missing plug. There was nothing in the oil anyways and no visible issues either. But for sure I have to have it tested and cleaned out. The oil was full of large chips of steel...more so than fine particles. So the breakdown happened really fast versus slow wear to a melt down.
I'm going to post some pics of everything for you to look at. If nothing else it's some engine gore ****.
I've found conflicting information about the compatibility of the short block between the 2GR-FE and the 2GR-FSE. I've read enough to see that it's identicle from the conrod pin down. Bore, stroke, pitch. Both are forged in respect to conrods and crankshaft. Cyclinder sleeves are the same. It starts to change at the pistons and then almost everything above the deck is different.
But then I read part numbers and their part numbers are different...or sellers post that the fitment doesnt include the 5th digit VIN "E" IS350...
I feel pretty ignorant on it as I don't know enough about the vast variety of models and engine differences to be confident.
I'll post pics...
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KIS350 (10-25-18)
10-26-18 | 03:27 PM
#36
JM2C but a rough finish (think 100 grit) is plenty. You want to trap air in pockets at the surface to break the surface tension of the stationary air on the surface vs the air flowing above it.
Because the exhaust will fill with some layer of deposits, polish it so it can't adhere and will break free and leave.
Goal here is smooth blends and transitions... Bends and sharp angles drop velocity. Just make things align. Bigger is not always best as it can and often does drop velocity. Sharp bends make the fuel fall out of suspension. Avoid this...
Think of the dimples on a golf ball. They work!
Because the exhaust will fill with some layer of deposits, polish it so it can't adhere and will break free and leave.
Goal here is smooth blends and transitions... Bends and sharp angles drop velocity. Just make things align. Bigger is not always best as it can and often does drop velocity. Sharp bends make the fuel fall out of suspension. Avoid this...
Think of the dimples on a golf ball. They work!
Last edited by 2013FSport; 10-26-18 at 05:18 PM. Reason: Can vs can't adhere...
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KIS350 (10-27-18)
10-28-18 | 05:22 AM
#37
Driver
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 115
Likes: 11
From: Nc
Good so far, about 6k miles driven so far after the repair. The sound hasn't returned, and I've done oil analysis with Blackstone and so far it looks OK. I also have a tensioner pulley issue, the pulley sounds bad when I put a stethoscope up to it. That is next on the fixing block, I'm just not really looking forward to disconnecting my A/C system lol.
KIS, I enjoy watching updates on your repair. Best of luck on getting it back on the road.
10-28-18 | 09:10 AM
#38
Hate to thread jack on an interesting thread, but the pulley on the tensioner was noisey with a stethoscope like you describe. So I swapped it. You don’t have to purge the AC, just move it out of the way. Took me maybe an hour or two to swap it. However nothing quieted down after. I still have the typical whine most 2gr’s have.
KIS, I enjoy watching updates on your repair. Best of luck on getting it back on the road.
10-28-18 | 10:10 AM
#39
Driver
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 115
Likes: 11
From: Nc
Remove the bolts holding the ac in and just push it out of the way. Then you can access the remaining bolt or two on the tensioner.
10-28-18 | 10:40 AM
#40
Was moving it enough to pull the entire tensioner assembly off? I remember I tried to move it out of the way as much as possible, but still couldn't get it off :/
10-29-18 | 07:12 AM
#41
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 88
Likes: 4
From: Onatrio
It's really easy to get the tensioner off if you pull the engine out. Lol
10-29-18 | 12:59 PM
#42
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 88
Likes: 4
From: Onatrio
Hate to thread jack on an interesting thread, but the pulley on the tensioner was noisey with a stethoscope like you describe. So I swapped it. You don’t have to purge the AC, just move it out of the way. Took me maybe an hour or two to swap it. However nothing quieted down after. I still have the typical whine most 2gr’s have.
KIS, I enjoy watching updates on your repair. Best of luck on getting it back on the road.
I'll keep the updates coming. Right now I'm porting/polishing the heads and waiting for the rest of my parts to show up. Going to post pics soon.
10-31-18 | 06:23 AM
#43
Lead Lap
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 421
Likes: 36
From: Mass
Hate to thread jack on an interesting thread, but the pulley on the tensioner was noisey with a stethoscope like you describe. So I swapped it. You don’t have to purge the AC, just move it out of the way. Took me maybe an hour or two to swap it. However nothing quieted down after. I still have the typical whine most 2gr’s have.
KIS, I enjoy watching updates on your repair. Best of luck on getting it back on the road.
I get one at about 60mph and it is coming from the engine. Not that loud just noticeable. I didn’t have the whine on my first engine.
10-31-18 | 08:26 AM
#44
Not sure how to explain it but mine has it. Never noticed it on the other 350 or 250 I drove or the 2018 loaner Is300 2GR-FKS.
Mine sounds the same since I grabbed it w 50k mi on it. Never changed. Its at 72k mi now.
You ever hear the gear whine of a direct drive camshaft in say pushrod Chevy V8 or an engine with a belt drive super charger? An old ford with a bad power steering pump....
It's prominent gear whine. Not as loud as the example but def there.
If I had to guess it's the front pump in the A760E trans as I never hear it except under load moving.
Mine sounds the same since I grabbed it w 50k mi on it. Never changed. Its at 72k mi now.
You ever hear the gear whine of a direct drive camshaft in say pushrod Chevy V8 or an engine with a belt drive super charger? An old ford with a bad power steering pump....
It's prominent gear whine. Not as loud as the example but def there.
If I had to guess it's the front pump in the A760E trans as I never hear it except under load moving.
Last edited by 2013FSport; 10-31-18 at 08:29 AM.
