Thank you for the advice.

Sorry this is going to be a silly question but which one specifically do I need? I looked on Ebay bit got a bit confused.

 

I just bought the cable from eBay. The software they gave me didn't work so I downloaded an older version which worked great. You have to use a XP pc. Had one laying around so it all worked out.

 

I can confirm these do not have a motor to automatically go up and down like stock HIDs. (you actually pull the fuse (AFS) which I think also powers the auto level on the OEM HID lights to kill the AFS dummy light) those screws marked on the picture are just to adjust the lights.

By the way. I have not found an easy way to adjust these stupid lights we have so much crap in our engine bays that u have to remove parts to get to the screw. The passenger side is easier. U just remove your airbox and the up down screw is accessible the lateral screw is hidden by the fender so you would have to take these out to adjust those which is a pain to adjust, reinstall etc until you get it right. The left side is a little harder. More crap there. I think though removing the filler neck for the washer fluid might get you access to the screw. I just adjusted the passenger light vertically. It was way too low out the box. The drivers side is a little low too but I'm gonna see if I can live with it without crashing at night...

 

Same here. I have to adjust my lights. Out of the box the driver's side light beam was about 1 ft. higher than the passenger side. I need to find the right sized wrench and I'll be able to adjust the vertical screw (white screw pictured) while the headlights are on the car. This is doable with just barely enough room on the passenger side with air box removed, and the driver's side the washer fluid filler neck will need to be unbolted (takes 5 seconds) and just moved to the side. From there it seems just enough room to fit a combination or ratchet wrench and adjust the light vertically.
Most people wont realize that the beam is off until they see the light output against a flat surface like a wall at about 25 ft away or closer.

 

The passenger side was easy for me with the airbox out of the way. The drivers side, I removed the filler neck and tried to unbolt the fuse box but it wouldn't come out with the bolts off so I just winged it.
I used an 8mm socket not attached to the ratchet and turned it by hand. It worked. Got them adjusted pretty good now.

 

The fitment looks good on your set. I need to mess with mine a little bit more as they're off the body lines by a few cm.

 

Thanks! Had me thinking it was electric as they list it as an 'UP/DOWN ADJUSTING MOTOR' on the instructions and it has wires coming out of the plug, so who knows what those wires are actually for. I ended up ordering a set the other day so I'm looking forward to their arrival. Made sure to request a RHD set since I live in New Zealand. I'll have to get the DRL's hooked up to relay as it's illegal to have any type of DRL running when the low beams are switched on here (not even allowed 50% brightness). Should just be able to wire a relay in between the wire for the DRL and the fusebox so that the DRL's switch off as soon as the headlights are turned on. Will probably have to run one wire from the relay into the fusebox where Vland tells you to in the instructions, and the other wire to where the low beam fuse is, so that it cuts the power to the DRL's when the headlight switch is turned on.

 

I'm a newbie and I'm not sure if this has been discussed. I bought these pairs from eBay for my 2012 IS250C. Came to find out, the mounting bracket is different than the one from the OEM headlights. Do you need to buy a different brackets and if so, where can I buy them? Txs!

 

The brackets were the same as mine...Fit perfect actually. Only thing is the rubber weatherstrip on top of the light assembly is cracked and i tried to patch it with black RTV silicone and it looks just ok lol. but you cant really see it unless you look up close.

 

I had the dealer disable the DRL bulb since it was flickering and they were able to leave the swoosh strip on. Everything works great. Prior to them disabling the drl bulb I was just turning my headlights on and staying out of the drl mode to avoid the flicker.
Just putting that out there for anyone not looking to connect a 12v source or cannot use the techstream cable and software to disable it on their own.

 

Thanks! Sadly, do not have one of those lying around.

 

Will the software not run on a non-XP computer? I have techstream on my windows 10 pc but as far as I know on CDN cars, we cannot disable the DRL. I tried and that option is not available.

 

What about compatibility mode on Windows 10?

 

The software runs fine on my Surface Pro 3 with Windows 10.

 

If anyone has the stock set of lights they want to sell, I would be interested.