MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

I don't know what settings your scanner has it can detect missfire counts for each cylinder. Actually I had just pulled in my driveway when I saw your post again. I scanned my car for diagnostic mode. It has for miss fires, vvt, 02... I pulled up each mode depending on sensor. Check your scanner setting for diagnostic mode. I had no misfiring detected on each cylinder.

I'm sure it will have counts of miss fires if you have any. Well the key is figuring why the cam sensors. That's what is causing all other codes. Probably because it's retarding, or advaninad timing would be my guess.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

As I know it the the cam position data is not available to cheaper scanners like torque and such. I know many have tried to decode the PID and enter the formula to no success. That said I like how you think as I'd like that data too!

As stated, sensors are a hall effect of sorts and sense the magnetic field of a trigger wheel (points of cam position) to determine the location and velocity. These are powered and have a ground so the 3rd wire sends a signal to the ECU for processing.

Granted equal values gives us a warm fuzzy it may not tell the whole story.
Did you measure the resistance of all of the sensors?

I went into alldatadiy.com and it says to turn the camshaft by hand and expect a high voltage of 3.75v to 4.50v and a low of 0.50v to 1.25v.
That said your running values seem reasonable.

FWIW I posted in the 2IS main forum a link to alldatadiy last month with a 12mo subscription fee of just $13 with promo code. Even if the promo code expired, you might buy it has all the data about torque specs, troubleshooting, output specs, and wiring schematics, recall data, and TSB from Lexus.

Completely worth $13 even if I only use it once! That and adding extra vehicles is cheap.

Oh ya, hope they meant the crank vs cam! lol

Josh2002cc

To ohm each sensor, would I use the ground pin and the reference (5 volt constant) pin or the varying signal pin?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Also, you might just ohm and maybe pull the bank 1 VVT solenoids and test them for ohms, function and actual motion control. The only draw back here is risk of cutting the O-ring and a future oil seep.
Ohm = 6.9 - 7.9

Power check for swift motion:
Pin1 = +12vdc
Left side with lock pointed down

Pin2 = Ground
Right side

You are expecting a swift snap to full location. A sluggish solenoid may improve with a solvent bath.

Here is the post I was talking about.

Josh2002cc

I ohm'd all 4 of the VVT solenoids and applied 12 volts yesterday. All ohm readings were at 8.0 but the engine was warm. I read that the 6.9 to 7.9 ohm rating is at 68 degrees F. I would say my reading of 8.0 ohms is acceptable. Would you agree? As for movement, all solenoids were quick to snap and I cleaned them with brake cleaner before reinstalling. I would think they are good to go after my findings.

Is there a way to ohm the actual cam position sensors? If so, since they are 3 wire, which pins would I use to ohm them out? Ground and the constant 5 volt pin or the signal pin that voltage fluctuates?

On Edit: I just bought a subscription to alldata. Thank you for the heads up on the coupon.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

OK - to my surprise there is NO OHM test listed in Alldatadiy just a low speed voltage test. I would think that if you compare the 4 sensors using the same points and get the same data, you have lost nothing but the manual does not ask for this test so maybe it is not valid! If for example there is an amplifier or any diode in these pickups, they may not be testable with an ohm meter.

That said, move the sensor to the other bank and see if the error follows the sensor!

Josh2002cc

Okay, so I moved the 2 cam sensors on the passenger side (bank 1) to the drivers side (bank 2) and bank 2 to bank 1. 3 of the 4 sensors are identical and 1 of them has a 90 degree connection for the wire harness. Anyways, swapped the sensors around and took the car for a drive. I drove the car then stopped and turned it off, then drove some more and turned it off again. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times in an effort to throw the code. Vehicle is no longer throwing a P0017 code nor is it throwing any codes. At best, I hoped the code would swap from bank 1 to bank 2 but nothing, no codes no nothing.

Like before, car runs great and there is still a slight ticking noise coming from the passenger side. I will have the girlfriend drive the car tomorrow and see if the light comes back on.

I do not suspect that my issue is gone. It would be great if the code switched from bank 1 to bank 2 so I would know it was the sensor but I feel like I am not going to be that lucky.

I will update tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

I found these threads earlier.

Start: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9239937

Update: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...codes-now.html

Josh2002cc

Girlfriend let me know this morning after her 30 minute commute to work that no check engine lights came on and the car is running great. She says the vehicle has that acceleration or "snap" that it used to have when she started driving it last year. I guess since I don't drive it everyday I didn't notice a lack of performance.

This puzzles me. All I did was switch sensor locations and no check engine lights and engine performance improved. Why, if it was a bad cam sensor would the performance issues and check engine lights not remain just under a different code.

I am going to give it more time to see what plays out before calling the issue "solved"

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Curious did you clean the oil screen on Bank 2? Also, what brand and weight of oil are you using and how long do you run between OCI?

When I bought my 350 it seemed sluggish and noisy. Knowing this crappy dealership dumped crude oil in it, I changed it and suddenly the thing springs to life.

The VVTi system is essentially a controlled oil leak which while managing cam timing so the quality of oil used does matter.

Last little bit just so we are on the same page. The DI clicks pretty good. Any chance the click you hear is really the thump from the high pressure pump on the right side?
The thump is 1/2 engine speed.

To isolate use a long wooden dowel, stethoscope, or even a long screwdriver and poke around listening to everything. Also a long cardboard tube to the ear offers a good bit of directional isolation to pinpoint sounds too.

No explanation why it runs better short of it being a bad connection that improved by swapping components!

Josh2002cc

See my responses in RED above.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

I started to use the Mobil 1 Extended regular. To my surprise I haven't lost any oil. Compared to regular Mobil 1 by the time my service light was on. I'd have to add almost 1/4 qt to bring the level back to the second mark.

DI is Direct Injection.

​​​​​​I actually just popped off my OCV filters this morning before work. They were clean as a whistle for 85k. Lol I just wanted to check the cleaness. To my surprise the car feels smoother. It did sound funny on start up since the oil that probably prevents the dry start in the OCV wasn't present. It drains out some milliliters.

Yeah good luck man hope your hiccups are gone.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Warning Will Robinson... do not use a human based stethoscope on a car engine! If you want to hear again that is. Think a round dowel like that of a toilet plunger with a round end and a flat end. Give that a try.

I personally still run dino oils but never the high mileage stuff. Valvoline or Casteroil GTX and dump it before 5000 mi.

That thump from the DI high pressure pump is pretty obvious. Get a listening device and poke around...

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Oh and good job doing one step at a time! Always the best practice if you really want to know the "why" part!

Nad1370

Great checks..!

Dont want to be the party pooper here but,
Sounds like a mechanical issue to me.
Stretched chain (due to high mileage) and/or a bad timing gear on the exhaust side of Bank 1.
I'm leaning towards the timing gear.
A stretched chain will give you codes for both banks.
I remember at TN, Toyota had a bulletin for these codes. (same motor 2GR)
Which requires replacing cam gears that threw the code.

How many miles?
Over 100k?