Josh2002cc

Well, it happened again. Vehicle threw the P0017 yesterday. Since I swapped the sensors around and the code is still the same, in the same spot, I am ruling out sensors being the issue.

Car has 140k miles on it.

For the timing gear, do you know of a step by step guide for the removal and replacement? I have the subscription to alldatadiy.com but cannot find it at this time.

Would I be better of replacing the intake and exhaust gears or is that unnecessary?

I appreciate the help and comments. I'm not worried about being a party pooper with honest feedback. It is what it is and I am confident that between everyone on here, we will all get it sorted out. If it means I need to tear the engine apart, so be it.

Keep the ideas coming!

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Did your car receive the cam gear recall? It's showing the bolts cone loose from the sproket. Off topic does the Alldtatadiy show the procedure for throttle body relearn?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ar-recall.html

Josh2002cc

Yes, the recall for the bolts backing out was completed early to mid 2018. We had that ratcheting sound when you would start the car and after they performed the recall it went away.

For throttle body relearn, this is all I found. Not really a "relearn" procedure. On-Vehicle InspectionON-VEHICLE INSPECTION

1. CHECK THROTTLE BODY

1. Check the throttle control motor operating sounds.

•  
  1. Turn the engine switch on (IG).
  2. When pressing the accelerator pedal, check the operating sound of the running motor. Make sure that no friction noises emit from the motor.

If friction noise exists, replace the throttle body.

1. Check the throttle position sensor.

•  
  1. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.
  2. Turn the engine switch on (IG).
  3. Push the intelligent tester main switch ON.
  4. Enter the given menus: DIAGNOSIS / ENHANCED OBD II / DATA LIST / THROTTLE POS AND THROTTLE POS #2.
  5. Depress the accelerator pedal. When the throttle valve is fully opened, check that the value of the "Throttle Sensor Position" is within the specification.

Standard throttle valve opening percentage: 60% or more

NOTE: When checking the standard throttle valve opening percentage, the shift lever should be in the N position.

If the percentage is less than 60% , replace the throttle body.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Thank you sir.

Nad1370

^^^
Interesting.
Let's break it down here.
According to the recall they just performed, they would only replace the INTAKE cam gear due to the rattle.

Your code is a P0017 which is a misalignment of the camshaft timing in the EXHAUST side of Bank 1.
The crank sensor and the camshaft sensor see's this.
Relays it to the ECU which then trips your P0017 code.
Which im leaning towards a stretched chain and/or bad exhaust cam gear on Bank 1.
This would be my consensus but needs to be confirmed by a Lexus tech or any able technician.

Going back to the work they just did for your rattle issue.
They had to open up the front cover to replace the intake cam gear according to the recall.
You probably had to wait at least 3 days to get it back
Did they offer to replace the timing chains? (3 of them)

--- At this point you did your fair share of diag.
--- If you have exhausted all your options and code keeps coming back, maybe its time to have a Lexus tech look at it.
--- Even if you yourself want to get dirty to replace the ex gear, the problem still needs to get confirmed.
--- Me personally, i'd pay for a diag just to see what actually is going on.

Josh2002cc

Looking at the recall that they performed for the bolts at the intake camshafts, it doesn't appear they have to remove the front cover to do the work. It looks like they just release tension on the timing chain and then remove the camshaft.

A little update, I changed the engine oil this afternoon and since I have been negligent in performing proper maintenance I anticipated it being pretty bad. And yeah, it was bad..really bad.





So I bought 15 quarts of fresh engine oil (Casterol GTX 5w-30) and 2 quarts of automatic transmission fluid. I added 1 quart of the transmission oil to the existing oil and let the car idle for 30 minutes. I then dumped the engine oil and changed the filter out. I then added 5 quarts of new engine oil and 1 quart of transmission fluid and let the car idle for another 30 minutes. I dumped that oil and changed the filter out once again. I refilled with the proper amount of fresh engine oil, approximately 6.7 quarts.

I removed the drivers side screen filter from the banjo bolt and cleaned it out and reinstalled after changing the engine oil.

I took the car for a drive after changing the engine oil and filters twice and no check engine light and no code being thrown. My plan is to put a couple hundred miles on the car and then change out the filter and oil again.

Sometimes I learn things the hard way and sometimes it takes me more than once to really "get" it. I am not saying that my oil and filter caused my issues but at a minimum, I learned a valuable lesson today.

I will keep everyone posted.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

As I know it there are two filters for these whereby the length is different. Yours being crushed, has the later model long one when it should have the shorter one.

Is it also full of sludge? And did the ATF release more crap?

As for checking for main chain stretch, should be easy to rotate by hand, plugs out, valve covers off and check the cam gear position when engine is at TDC #1 firing (#1 valves are all closed).
If we do go this direction, I think I have a link saved or saw it on TIS.

Taking deeper dive, bank 1 would show more chain stretch due to the added length of the chain from bank 2 to bank 1. In short a failed cam chain tensioner or excessive wear of the chain guides could also play a factor here.

Nad1370

Josh2002cc

10k miles is generous. Maybe triple that number...or more.

Josh2002cc

Update

So Saturday I changed the oil twice and used transmission fluid in an effort to breakup and clean out potential sludge or foreign debris. I drove the car around like normal and the code didn't come back after a couple of hours. Later on Saturday evening, we drove the car to dinner and the light came on showing a P0017 again. So we kept driving it and at this point I just said "screw it", let the code stay on and drive the car a few hundred miles or so and I will change oil one more time to see if that helps. By this point, the engine noise decreased and the car almost sounds like it did when I bought the car in 2014. There is still a defined "ticking" noise on the passenger side bank, middle of head area around cylinder #3.

Here is the odd thing: As we were driving home from dinner, the check engine light turned off and so did the VSC light. Again I said screw it and decided to no longer check the codes until my girlfriend put more miles on the car. I asked her this morning if the light came back on and she said no and that the car is running great.

I'm thinking the multiple oil changes and filter changes are helping and that with the code occurring lest frequently, it could have something do to do with the engine oil and the variable aspect of the timing.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

At first I thought I saw metal flakes in those oil filter pictures! Guessing it was just the light bouncing off of the oil.

Anyhow, will you luck and hope the motor "fixes" itself over time.

Nad1370

Awesome..!
Lets hope it doesnt come back.
Makes sense if you have a sludged up motor and oil passages are restricted.
Those cam gears need oil pressure to function.

30k oil changes...yeeeeshhh...lol

Josh2002cc

UPDATE

So the code comes and goes, no real rhyme or reason. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 days for the light to pop back on but surely enough, it always does. I checked the engine oil and after approximately 500 miles it is still has a clean appearance. I pulled the oil filter out and checked, all appeared well. The filer is not dirty so I re-installed.

We are having a fuel related recall performed by Lexus on Wednesday so I asked them to diagnose the P0016 and P0017 codes. We shall see what they have to say later this week and I will update when possible.

Josh2002cc

Got the car back from my local Lexus dealership. Tech says he believes my timing chain is stretched and causing the codes to trip.

Service adviser stated $4400.00 to fix. Approximately $600.00 in parts and the rest in labor.

Guess I am going to be tearing the engine apart to fix the timing chain.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

This.... ^^^^ did they remove the valve covers?
You could check bank 2 pretty easy by pulling the valve cover. It will give you a good idea if the primary chain is worn. But first you need the spec.

Something seems of with their conclusion. Chain stretch is not random. It doesn't repair itself or get better. It is constant.

What brand and weight of oil are you using? You might change it up and see if results vary.