When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It’s been 13+ years since this car was released, if no one has figured out how to disable TPMS, probably ain’t happening. These are so cheap now and programming via Techstream is easy AF. Easier to just leave and use it.
It’s been 13+ years since this car was released, if no one has figured out how to disable TPMS, probably ain’t happening. These are so cheap now and programming via Techstream is easy AF. Easier to just leave and use it.
i agree, $260 for all 4 sensors installed. Should last about 8-10 years. I’ll have about 400k miles by then.
+1 for a set of cheap sensor. If you don't want to make a TPMS pipe bomb, you can always try the zip tie method. It works just as good, if not better. I zip tied mine's and left them in the glove compartment for my snow tire set. It has been few months now, and no issue so far.
No luck, nor harm in bridging/jumping the large brown wires. I have seen the 'p1p3 b0mb' solution, and love it, but now it's a mission of circuitry understanding.
Why buy new sensors, program them and not use them?
Cheap insurance against A) walking. B) Changing a tire in the middle of nowhere. C) Replacing a damaged tire / and maybe wheel. D) Being late to wherever....
Even if you keep the old sensors and squeeze the bladder, you still have an aged battery to deal with.
When probing into circuits where one intends to change its function and we don't know the details, the safe choice is using a test lamp if for example you intend to:
- remove a component and jumper a wire from one place to another.
- jumper a connection to ground.
- jumper a connection to +12v.
If you take a solid wire of zero ohms and insert it where energy is present this can cause a short where the load is high and either a fuse burns open or something else burns.
By using a test lamp instead of a zero ohm wire, you won't burn anything up because it is not a direct short as the incandescent lamp will light telling you there is current flow. A barely lit lamp may be fine. One that glows at full strength tells you the two points have different potentials.
The benefit of this over a digital meter reading volts is it tells you there is current flow.
Make sense?
thanks for your time. no, it doesnt make sense, but thats because there's so much to know and not something you can teach in a single post. ut ill take from it not to just go poking wires into holes. a multimeter is fine too?
thanks for your time. no, it doesnt make sense, but thats because there's so much to know and not something you can teach in a single post. ut ill take from it not to just go poking wires into holes. a multimeter is fine too?
Think of it like this; if you take a wire and place one end on the positive battery terminal and the other on the negative terminal; what happens? This action creates a dead short through the low resistance wire. Now depending on the wires size, sparks will fly, current will flow through the wire, the wire will heat and burn as there is no protection (think fuse).
Repeat this same action using your wire but instead connect our incandescent test lamp in series with our wire. We no longer have a dead short from + to - and the current is regulated by how many watts the lamp draws.
In most cases this is limited to less than a watt.
Lets say you need more current to flow to say for example test the integrity of a wire or power some device, a relay, another lamp, a heater, well; you could use a halogen head lamp. 55 watts would allow 4.0 to 4.5 amps of current to flow. 55w/13v = 4.2 amps. Notice how a circuit protected by a 10 amp fuse would light our 55w headlight and likely not pop that fuse.
What the test lamp allows us to do is conduct a safe test by limiting current flow based on the size (wattage) of our test lamp which unlike a straight wire thrown across the battery - well it would short and burn up.
Adding to the above: Our troubling shooting tool box should include a test lamp and volt meter as a volt meter indicates *potential differences* while a test lamp indicates both potential differences AND if there is current available because a volt meter draws so little current that it can be triggered (indicating 13v) while only drawing a small amount of current. It won't test the integrity of a circuit.
For example we could have 2 gauge cable from our battery to our starter. It would have say 250 single strand copper conductors. We could measure battery voltage and read 13volts at its terminal end. We could also cut away 249 strands of that same cable and still measure 13volts at its end. The difference being it lost its ability to conduct full current potential. Yes, it would light a test lamp but it won't operate a starter motor on one strand.
You can try; no one has tried except the user from a few posts above, but he appeared to have done it wrong. The 2 wires should be brown.
I can confirm that the suggested approach - to unplug the harness from the TPMS ECU, jumper the two brown wires (pins 2 and 3) and leave the harness unplugged - does not work.
Interested in this thread. I come from a Toyota community were a simple jumper solves a power mod check engine issue. All we had to do was tell the ECU that everything was OK and it would not bother us.
I have years of experience of wiring and diagnostics but I come from an older Toyota era. My current IS250 is bugging me to death about the tire pressure but all the pressure is fine.
As a car owner, I find that most people will gladly pay the $60-180 to just have it fixed rather than spend tons of hours trying to bypass it.
As a geek, I want to spend no less than 100 hours trying to find the solution.
Interested in this thread. I come from a Toyota community were a simple jumper solves a power mod check engine issue. All we had to do was tell the ECU that everything was OK and it would not bother us.
I have years of experience of wiring and diagnostics but I come from an older Toyota era. My current IS250 is bugging me to death about the tire pressure but all the pressure is fine.
As a car owner, I find that most people will gladly pay the $60-180 to just have it fixed rather than spend tons of hours trying to bypass it.
As a geek, I want to spend no less than 100 hours trying to find the solution.
So, let's see what I can find out!
Your not the first one. 13 years and noone came with a solution. My tire shop charges $40 per sensor programmed and installed. That's $160 for the next 10 years. TPS do come in handy the other day I got a flat I would've realized once my tired was past fixable if it wasn't for the sensor. Why not just pay the money and get it over with. I couldn't stand the check TPS system on the screen and the red exclamation mark
seems to be whats said in every thread ove read on the matter. just pay to fix it. SCREW THAT. its the principle. its a money grab horse**** idea and my dash shouldn't look like a christmas tree because of it. if it were just the TPMS light that would be one thing, but lexus decided that wasnt enough; no, a BIG red CAUTION sign like there's a radiation leak somewhere, CHECK VPR" because your transmission is going to drop out of the car, leaving your instrument screen clogged and useless. i want it gone, i have a tire pressure gauge that cost 2 dollars at auto zone. but better men then me have given up so theres no choice. 2 years ive been staring at the light. i guess im supposed to buy 2 sets too for my winter tires, or just pay that extra money to have them switched in and out ? its wrong and useless, from what ive read any carbon reduction in the atmosphere is voided by the extra energy it takes to produce, maintain and replace them.
03-06-19, 10:01 PM
