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So after about 2 weeks of trying to remove the passenger side cv axle, I finally got it out. I was trying to get it out using a 5 lbs slide hammer attached to a vise grip but failed miserably. I went so far as to cut the inner boot to separate the shaft in two and then drill a hole through the top and the bottom of the hub. I then placed a 3 1/2" 3/8 bolt through holes at the top and bottom of the hub. I used the vise grip to grip on to the bolt and then tried to get it out with the slide hammer. That also failed. I used PB Blaster, WD40, WD40 rust Specialist, propane torch, all with negative results. Then I realized that I needed a bigger slide hammer because I lack the muscles it takes to remove this rusted cv axle so I bought the OTC 10 lbs slide hammer and the vise grip attachment. It literally took less than 10 pulls and it came out. Unfortunately it came out with the sleeve that sits in the oil pan. I will try to clean all the rust off of it and reuse it because I cannot find the part number to buy a new one. I called the dealer and they couldn't find it either. I was told that it may be apart of the oil pan. Not sure, the guy on the phone sounded busy.
Also, I'm not sure if it helped but I started the car before I attempted to the remove the cv axle and waited for the engine to warm up. I can only assume that it was a combination of all the attempts that helped to remove the cv axle but the 10 lbs slide hammer really made a difference. Thanks to everyone for your help. Here is a pic of the set up I used.
@LexKong Lexkon what is this sleeve you are referring too?
Can you zoom in on that and the area it came from?
And obviously it is getting a new bearing.
For Assembly I would use Marine grade high pressure grease. Valvoline makes a tube grease called Crimson VV70124 that is very high in corrosion inhibitors and moisture intrusion.
The bearing that is pressed onto the axle goes into a steel sleeve in the oil pan. I'm assuming they put the steel sleeve in there because the oil pan is made of aluminum. There is a bolt in the oil pan that goes in the hole in the sleeve to keep it in place. The sleeve and the bearing got rusted together so it came out with the bearing. I used a punch to tap around the sleeve to separate it from the bearing. The inside of the sleeve had some surface rust. I clean it with a wire brush and applied anti seize to the bearing to hopefully prevent it from getting stuck together again. I was hoping to buy a new one but it seems that it is not available as a separate piece.
My passenger side seal is leaking (I have a GS but it is pretty much the same). I bet the gear oil acts as penetrating lube? What parts actually get seized so bad? There is gear oil beyond the seal.
Edit: I had a good look at it. I see the issue now. I think the diff has to come out to replace the seal.
Were you ever able to reinstall it or did you have to buy an upper oil pan? I’m in the same situation right now and dealer is telling me I have to buy an upper oil pan as there is no replacement part. 😢
Were you ever able to reinstall it or did you have to buy an upper oil pan? I’m in the same situation right now and dealer is telling me I have to buy an upper oil pan as there is no replacement part. 😢
I was told the same thing. What did you end up doing ? I was going to heat up the sleeve around the bearing and try to reuse it.
After working on it for so many hours (off and on for 3 weeks) and trying so many different ways, FINALLY GOT IT OUT TODAY! I used a torch—>PB blaster—>Air hammer. Did it in vegas 100+F morning and at night by the sidewalk (sorry neighbors). At one point I used the biggest come-along at harbor freight and hooked it to the axle and the other end on the street lamp, didnt budge.
What worked was a 10lb slide hammer from amazon, and a chain +accesories at ace hardware. The chain made the slide hammer set-up longer, so I can use the whole length of the slide hammer as leverage. The accessories that came with the hammer like the cv-axle adapter wasnt working great which made me contemplate about giving-up. The other wire-sht that came with the slide hammer broke so dam fast too. I tried drilling 2 holes thru the cv axle like one of the members did here but the metal was too thick on one-side (tried drilling the holes for so fking long, wasted so many days and never got the whole big enough on the thicker side). All the youtube crap I watched was useless. Ended up using my imagination for this holy-grail contraption.
Materials that I used:
Chain (length:long), bolts, nuts, washers, L shape metal bracket (had to make the hole bigger where the slide hammer goes into using a stepless drill bit from harbor freight), and 10lb hammer.
I am made of 125lb asian meat. It wouldve been easier if I was stronger, just felt weak the whole time. This bs is one of the hardest fqin things I ever had to do on any car, even made me write my first forum comment, Never give up, You can do it!
04-08-19, 08:56 AM
