Code P0505
03-03-19 | 06:43 PM
#2
The most likely item is a vacuum leak providing unmetered air to the engine rising the RPM.
Open the hood, remove the side covers an center engine cover, start it and look and listen for vacuum leaks. Waving your between your head and the suspect leak can make pitch difference. Another tool is a long hollow tube to the ear. Use this to pinpoint direction of sound.
Has the TB ever been cleaned? Spark plugs replaced? Any recent work performed?
Open the hood, remove the side covers an center engine cover, start it and look and listen for vacuum leaks. Waving your between your head and the suspect leak can make pitch difference. Another tool is a long hollow tube to the ear. Use this to pinpoint direction of sound.
Has the TB ever been cleaned? Spark plugs replaced? Any recent work performed?
03-11-19 | 07:48 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 510
Likes: 2
From: New York
Guys I still need some help I change Throttle body Air flow sensor spark plugs PCV valve I still getting the side P0505 once I start the car it Idle at about 1400 RPM for 2 second and then jump to over 2000 RPM and refuse to go down
03-13-19 | 05:53 AM
#5
Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 114
Likes: 11
From: Bristol UK
As you have disturbed the inlet tract then I guess you now have un-metered air entering the engine somewhere in that inlet system. Got to double check everything that you have handled while doing those jobs. Simply could be a dislodged or unseated inlet manifold gasket somewhere.
Also need to check any plugs/wires or connections that you touched ( or accidentally touched) while under the bonnet ( hood!)
paul m.
Also need to check any plugs/wires or connections that you touched ( or accidentally touched) while under the bonnet ( hood!)
paul m.
Last edited by Texas149; 03-13-19 at 05:58 AM.
08-12-22 | 05:00 PM
#6
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: New South Wales
Hi frotiss, my is250 has the same symptoms as your car. Did you solve the problem? If so, how did you solve it? I've tried everything too, but it doesn't work at all. Please help. Thanks
09-09-22 | 10:18 PM
#7
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 3
From: wld
Hey Shawn, I'm from AUS too and wondering if you've had any luck fixing this code.
I changed my spark plugs and cleaned my throttle body now its flashing this code and idling rough.
Hope you got to the bottom of it. If you did could you please tell me how you did? Thanks mate!
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Shawnkim (09-10-22)
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09-10-22 | 05:34 PM
#8
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: New South Wales
Hi mate, I succeeded in fixing my symptoms, but it may not be the same as yours, so could you please explain the symptoms of your car?
my 2006 IS250 has done 190k km.During cold start, it idles at about 1500 RPM for about 10 seconds and then jumps over 1800 RPM. It does not go below 1000 RPM even when fully warmed up. These symptoms started after cleaning the throttle body.
I checked all the vacuum hoses(PCV) and intake manifold gaskets and replaced the spark plugs, throttle body and ECM, but the symptoms did not change at all. Even my mechanic couldn't figure out what was the problem.
Finally, I doubted the alternator because there was no other reason. The alternator was charged well, the voltage was stable, and there was no reason to replace it, but there was nothing suspicious other than that, so I decided to replace it and removed it. Of course my mechanic dissuaded it.
I removed and checked the alternator.
First, when I turned it by hand, there was a clicking noise.
Second, there was noise in the one way clutch pulley.
The last, it was an unbranded alternator.
After changing to a genuine used alternator, all the problems were finally solved.
In order not to make the mistake I made, it is recommended that you check the parts that do not incur expenses and do not replace the parts that do not show any obvious problems.
Good Luck!
my 2006 IS250 has done 190k km.During cold start, it idles at about 1500 RPM for about 10 seconds and then jumps over 1800 RPM. It does not go below 1000 RPM even when fully warmed up. These symptoms started after cleaning the throttle body.
I checked all the vacuum hoses(PCV) and intake manifold gaskets and replaced the spark plugs, throttle body and ECM, but the symptoms did not change at all. Even my mechanic couldn't figure out what was the problem.
Finally, I doubted the alternator because there was no other reason. The alternator was charged well, the voltage was stable, and there was no reason to replace it, but there was nothing suspicious other than that, so I decided to replace it and removed it. Of course my mechanic dissuaded it.
I removed and checked the alternator.
First, when I turned it by hand, there was a clicking noise.
Second, there was noise in the one way clutch pulley.
The last, it was an unbranded alternator.
After changing to a genuine used alternator, all the problems were finally solved.
In order not to make the mistake I made, it is recommended that you check the parts that do not incur expenses and do not replace the parts that do not show any obvious problems.
Good Luck!
09-11-22 | 11:21 PM
#9
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 3
From: wld
Hi mate, I succeeded in fixing my symptoms, but it may not be the same as yours, so could you please explain the symptoms of your car?
my 2006 IS250 has done 190k km.During cold start, it idles at about 1500 RPM for about 10 seconds and then jumps over 1800 RPM. It does not go below 1000 RPM even when fully warmed up. These symptoms started after cleaning the throttle body.
I checked all the vacuum hoses(PCV) and intake manifold gaskets and replaced the spark plugs, throttle body and ECM, but the symptoms did not change at all. Even my mechanic couldn't figure out what was the problem.
Finally, I doubted the alternator because there was no other reason. The alternator was charged well, the voltage was stable, and there was no reason to replace it, but there was nothing suspicious other than that, so I decided to replace it and removed it. Of course my mechanic dissuaded it.
I removed and checked the alternator.
First, when I turned it by hand, there was a clicking noise.
Second, there was noise in the one way clutch pulley.
The last, it was an unbranded alternator.
After changing to a genuine used alternator, all the problems were finally solved.
In order not to make the mistake I made, it is recommended that you check the parts that do not incur expenses and do not replace the parts that do not show any obvious problems.
Good Luck!
my 2006 IS250 has done 190k km.During cold start, it idles at about 1500 RPM for about 10 seconds and then jumps over 1800 RPM. It does not go below 1000 RPM even when fully warmed up. These symptoms started after cleaning the throttle body.
I checked all the vacuum hoses(PCV) and intake manifold gaskets and replaced the spark plugs, throttle body and ECM, but the symptoms did not change at all. Even my mechanic couldn't figure out what was the problem.
Finally, I doubted the alternator because there was no other reason. The alternator was charged well, the voltage was stable, and there was no reason to replace it, but there was nothing suspicious other than that, so I decided to replace it and removed it. Of course my mechanic dissuaded it.
I removed and checked the alternator.
First, when I turned it by hand, there was a clicking noise.
Second, there was noise in the one way clutch pulley.
The last, it was an unbranded alternator.
After changing to a genuine used alternator, all the problems were finally solved.
In order not to make the mistake I made, it is recommended that you check the parts that do not incur expenses and do not replace the parts that do not show any obvious problems.
Good Luck!
Your lexus is the EXACT same as mine. 2006 IS250 with 190km on the clock. Insane. Sure you're not the guy I bought it from :P
Glad you were able to finally fix your problem. Replacing the ECM would have been very costly on top of the other things!? I guess it was flashing p0505 and idling rough?
Your problem sounds very similar to mine so I'll explain.
I recently purchased the is250 and decided to change the spark plugs. Obviously have to take the intake plenum off so decided to replace the gaskets for that, and give the top of the intake a wipe (little valve plates too) and the throttle body a good clean. I moved the actuator with my hand very slowly and didn't over do it. Got it sparkly clean.
Once I was done with the horror of one of the spark plugs breaking in the engine I put everything on carefully and worked backwards. I had the battery disconnected the entire time.
Once the ECU relearns the car after pulling the ecu fuses and putting them back in, the car will idle high up to operating temperature. Probably around 2k. Once reached operating temperature it'll sit rough around 800-100k and immediately trigger the code the second it starts to idle.
Seems to me that the throttle body has no worries with driving or higher rpm its only when sitting idle.
Now its flashing the p0505 code which could mean so many different things.
I've been over the maf sensor, cleaned it twice with maf cleaner, been over the TB twice and cleaned that over with carb cleaner,
No audible vaccum leaks but will have to do a proper test on that with smoke. I did a quick carby spray on the engine but nothing really and was uneasy that the car could catch on fire without a fire extinguisher.
Re-seated the intake piping
Checked and cleaned all connectors and housings
To do:
Reseat the TB,
reseat the plenum
Replace the TB
Replace the MAF sensor
Any thoughts my dude?
I hadn't even considered the alternator...
Last edited by JaredAU; 09-11-22 at 11:29 PM.
09-13-22 | 05:23 PM
#10
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: New South Wales
Sorry about the late reply, didn't expect to get an answer back really but thank you so much for your reply.
Your lexus is the EXACT same as mine. 2006 IS250 with 190km on the clock. Insane. Sure you're not the guy I bought it from :P
Glad you were able to finally fix your problem. Replacing the ECM would have been very costly on top of the other things!? I guess it was flashing p0505 and idling rough?
Your problem sounds very similar to mine so I'll explain.
I recently purchased the is250 and decided to change the spark plugs. Obviously have to take the intake plenum off so decided to replace the gaskets for that, and give the top of the intake a wipe (little valve plates too) and the throttle body a good clean. I moved the actuator with my hand very slowly and didn't over do it. Got it sparkly clean.
Once I was done with the horror of one of the spark plugs breaking in the engine I put everything on carefully and worked backwards. I had the battery disconnected the entire time.
Once the ECU relearns the car after pulling the ecu fuses and putting them back in, the car will idle high up to operating temperature. Probably around 2k. Once reached operating temperature it'll sit rough around 800-100k and immediately trigger the code the second it starts to idle.
Seems to me that the throttle body has no worries with driving or higher rpm its only when sitting idle.
Now its flashing the p0505 code which could mean so many different things.
I've been over the maf sensor, cleaned it twice with maf cleaner, been over the TB twice and cleaned that over with carb cleaner,
No audible vaccum leaks but will have to do a proper test on that with smoke. I did a quick carby spray on the engine but nothing really and was uneasy that the car could catch on fire without a fire extinguisher.
Re-seated the intake piping
Checked and cleaned all connectors and housings
To do:
Reseat the TB,
reseat the plenum
Replace the TB
Replace the MAF sensor
Any thoughts my dude?
I hadn't even considered the alternator...
Your lexus is the EXACT same as mine. 2006 IS250 with 190km on the clock. Insane. Sure you're not the guy I bought it from :P
Glad you were able to finally fix your problem. Replacing the ECM would have been very costly on top of the other things!? I guess it was flashing p0505 and idling rough?
Your problem sounds very similar to mine so I'll explain.
I recently purchased the is250 and decided to change the spark plugs. Obviously have to take the intake plenum off so decided to replace the gaskets for that, and give the top of the intake a wipe (little valve plates too) and the throttle body a good clean. I moved the actuator with my hand very slowly and didn't over do it. Got it sparkly clean.
Once I was done with the horror of one of the spark plugs breaking in the engine I put everything on carefully and worked backwards. I had the battery disconnected the entire time.
Once the ECU relearns the car after pulling the ecu fuses and putting them back in, the car will idle high up to operating temperature. Probably around 2k. Once reached operating temperature it'll sit rough around 800-100k and immediately trigger the code the second it starts to idle.
Seems to me that the throttle body has no worries with driving or higher rpm its only when sitting idle.
Now its flashing the p0505 code which could mean so many different things.
I've been over the maf sensor, cleaned it twice with maf cleaner, been over the TB twice and cleaned that over with carb cleaner,
No audible vaccum leaks but will have to do a proper test on that with smoke. I did a quick carby spray on the engine but nothing really and was uneasy that the car could catch on fire without a fire extinguisher.
Re-seated the intake piping
Checked and cleaned all connectors and housings
To do:
Reseat the TB,
reseat the plenum
Replace the TB
Replace the MAF sensor
Any thoughts my dude?
I hadn't even considered the alternator...
Your case is very similar to mine.
I also almost broke the spark plug when replacing it, if it does, it's a real nightmare. Do you have any Misfire?
Why did you clean the throttle body? Did you have any symptoms before cleaning?
I selected D and when it was stopped, the idle went down to less than 500rpm and vibration occurred, so I had to clean the TB.
After cleaning, the P0505 code appeared. At that time, the symptom was that idle was high at 1000rpm at the operating temperature, but it was very stable.
The reason is that if the idle is higher than the standard, P0505 is supposed to be displayed if it is repeated during starting 2 or 3 times, whatever the reason.
What I recommend is not to keep replacing this and that, but check all the connectors and vacuum pipes again, and try the following.
1. Warm up to operating temperature.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
3. Disconnect the alternator positive terminal from alternator (after separation, cover it with gloves so that it does not close to the body)
4. Start after connecting the negative terminal of the battery(Do not go far, it can run for about 10-30 minutes depending on the battery condition. Also, the battery warning light will come on)
5. Check idle. If it returns to normal idle, you have found that there is a problem with the alternator.
TB and MAF problems are very rare. In my experience, if there's a problem there, other code will pop up.
Hope you find the cause.
Last edited by Shawnkim; 09-13-22 at 05:29 PM. Reason: add more info
09-14-22 | 01:33 AM
#11
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 3
From: wld
Hi mate,
Your case is very similar to mine.
I also almost broke the spark plug when replacing it, if it does, it's a real nightmare. Do you have any Misfire?
Why did you clean the throttle body? Did you have any symptoms before cleaning?
I selected D and when it was stopped, the idle went down to less than 500rpm and vibration occurred, so I had to clean the TB.
After cleaning, the P0505 code appeared. At that time, the symptom was that idle was high at 1000rpm at the operating temperature, but it was very stable.
The reason is that if the idle is higher than the standard, P0505 is supposed to be displayed if it is repeated during starting 2 or 3 times, whatever the reason.
What I recommend is not to keep replacing this and that, but check all the connectors and vacuum pipes again, and try the following.
1. Warm up to operating temperature.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
3. Disconnect the alternator positive terminal from alternator (after separation, cover it with gloves so that it does not close to the body)
4. Start after connecting the negative terminal of the battery(Do not go far, it can run for about 10-30 minutes depending on the battery condition. Also, the battery warning light will come on)
5. Check idle. If it returns to normal idle, you have found that there is a problem with the alternator.
TB and MAF problems are very rare. In my experience, if there's a problem there, other code will pop up.
Hope you find the cause.
Your case is very similar to mine.
I also almost broke the spark plug when replacing it, if it does, it's a real nightmare. Do you have any Misfire?
Why did you clean the throttle body? Did you have any symptoms before cleaning?
I selected D and when it was stopped, the idle went down to less than 500rpm and vibration occurred, so I had to clean the TB.
After cleaning, the P0505 code appeared. At that time, the symptom was that idle was high at 1000rpm at the operating temperature, but it was very stable.
The reason is that if the idle is higher than the standard, P0505 is supposed to be displayed if it is repeated during starting 2 or 3 times, whatever the reason.
What I recommend is not to keep replacing this and that, but check all the connectors and vacuum pipes again, and try the following.
1. Warm up to operating temperature.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
3. Disconnect the alternator positive terminal from alternator (after separation, cover it with gloves so that it does not close to the body)
4. Start after connecting the negative terminal of the battery(Do not go far, it can run for about 10-30 minutes depending on the battery condition. Also, the battery warning light will come on)
5. Check idle. If it returns to normal idle, you have found that there is a problem with the alternator.
TB and MAF problems are very rare. In my experience, if there's a problem there, other code will pop up.
Hope you find the cause.
I actually did break the spark plug in half and left the tread in there but fixed it with an easy out. No misfires.
I cleaned the TB because I just thought it would be good for the car to have it done as it was dirty when inspecting. No symptoms before hand no.
Im guessing the cleaning of it triggered the code for me too and yes idle is stable and even below 1000 rpm. Sometimes around 700-800 really never over a 1000. just seems a little rough with the noises and obviously throws the code and vsc light flashing.
I did your alternator test and thought it worked, was about to jump for joy then realised the code just appears within 5 mins of letting the engine run. So back to square 1 for me.
I can't see how its a vacuum leak as the plenum is down so tight but maybe I should replace all vacuum hoses or something. I posted the pics here for the worst one i could find
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post11361841
You and others seem to think the TB and MAF are rare so I'll try to keep avoid replacing them, I'm just all out of ideas. Maybe I should just live with the code. Hate seeing and knowing its there though.
I do very much appreciate your help in telling me what worked for you!
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