Petet

I did a drain and fill today. Didn’t have time to do the filter. Will get to that in a few weeks.
First one that I know of but I did buy the car used. I drained 2 quarts out. Put 2 back in. Got it to 104 deg and took off the fluid height plug. Another quart came out. Is this normal ? Drain 3 replace 2 ?

lexpilot

Did you drain with it hot?
i did mine with the pan. You get more when you pull the pan.
Removed pan after draining, filled back up drove 10 miles, removed pan after draining, filled back up drove 10 miles, removed pan after draining etc... did this 4 times then put new filter on and ran up to 113 degrees F and pulled plug til trickle.
I doubt if cold to hot would expand an entire quart where you took out two, added two then pulled another whole quart when hot.
I did it all in one afternoon and the WS fluid was nice and red at last plug drain at 113F.
PS: reused the original gasket until the last drain with filter install then new gasket.

Lex

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

I've done about 5 drain, and fills. First time was around 46k. I did the first just to see the fluid. It was black as night. So then I ordered a case of 12. I did the next drain, and fills about 3 days apart. The fifth I just did around 80k. My plan is to drain and every fill every 30k or so. The drain at 80k the fluid was still just a tad darker than new fluid. So in all I always drop 4 Qts on a AWD 250. So I put in back in 4QTS, and it has been no problems since then. I've never used the official method from Toyota using the trans temp range, and height plug. Just drain, and fill cold what comes out.

I would say you better put that one quart back in. Good luck.

Petet

I plan on putting the third quart in before I drive it. Just found it odd , maybe I’m not completely level ? Looks level to me.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Is it level. That was to be my question.

Perhaps someone was there before you and left it over full?

For anyone wanting more fluid out per dump, just start it momentarily (4 - 8 seconds is plenty) after draining the pan and then drop the filter.

This is JM2C but if your goal is get all the old fluid out as efficiently as possible, a long drive stands to thoroughly mix the old/new fluid when your goal is to empty the Torque Converter and valve body into the pan and dump that old fluid. This only takes a few minutes if you can safely go through most of the gears.

That said, another option is to simply supply the filter IN port to the valve body with fresh fluid and start it. No mixing. Only fresh fluid is being pumped into the trans. The downside is making a feed tube, keeping it full, and the potential mess from oil being expelled from the trans without the pan for containment. I've done it on other vehicle's and this one having a round inlet port makes it pretty easy to connect too. Keep that in mind if you're feeling creative. Likely a 2 person job tho.

XSV

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't sound right. Sounds like your ATF temp was above the temp you're suppose to drain. How are you measuring the temp? I use a Scan Gauge 2 when I changed mine.

mandyfig

To be safe when doing a drain and fill, engine should be cold. Like after the morning after. Measure what you drain and replace exact amount.

Petet

I used tech stream. My transmission might of been overfilled before I even started the drain and fill. Engine was changed right after I purchased it. Possibly they added fluid without checking the level. Next drain and fill I do, I will do it by the manual and not worry what comes out.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Any chance you monitor the temps while driving? If way too full the fluid hits the reciprocating components, which will raise the fluid temp.. Mine runs pretty near coolant temp but on long hills and when being spirted, its 10 to 20° max above that. 220 on a hot day of play for example...