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Looking at the RockAuto website, the part numbers for the denso downstream sensors seem to be:
Right: 2344521 Left: 2344518
Is that correct? why is left different to right? are these sensors direct fit like the OEM ones? does it come complete with rubber grommet and connector? I've found a pic of stock OEM one which seems to have a rubber grommet where it enters the cabin and also seems to have some sort of big filter around the sensor. Last time I looked underneath my car, I don't recall seeing a filter like thing around the sensor but will check again.
Those are the correct part#'s. They fit identical to the OEM ones to the T. With all grommets and rubber boots. The cup is just a splash guard/shield. Whatever you want to call it. The lengths vary because of the location of the harness connection points.
You will need the right 02 sensor tool. Look at the second link I posted. Scroll down a couple of posts. You can rent it a Autozone. Then return it back, and get a refund.
Those are the correct part#'s. They fit identical to the OEM ones to the T. With all grommets and rubber boots. The cup is just a splash guard/shield. Whatever you want to call it. The lengths vary because of the location of the harness connection points.
You will need the right 02 sensor tool. Look at the second link I posted. Scroll down a couple of posts. You can rent it a Autozone. Then return it back, and get a refund.
I ordered the heated O2 sensors from rockauto and just got delivered. I'm thinking to install them along with those o2 sensor spacers designed to eliminate cat errors. Although i took the car in to the exhaust shop and they couldnt find any leaks, I still feel like there must be a leak somewhere because my exhaust does sound louder than usual. It sounds more like a sports exhaust now The o2 sensor spacers come in straight and angles too. I'm lookin at getting a straight one but it's like 53mm long of which about 40% of it is thread. Is there enough space to fit a straight spacer? or shall i go with angle one?
OK So i jacked up the car a little and managed to crawl and inspect visually. The only thing I could visually see was the heatsheilds in certain areas breaking up but couldnt see any damage on the exhaust itself. I turned on the car and tried spraying soapy water all over the exhaust and no sign of bubbling although it got hot rather quickly and started steaming. Another exhaust shop also said no exhaust leaks. But the exhaust has a growl to it. Sounds like the growl is from the back muffler area and i fully inspected the muffler and no leaks. I do kind of like the noise as it sounds very sporty. But just not sure why its making more than than usual if it hasn't got a leak. Do the exhausts / mufflers become noisy over time even without a leak?
I'm going to be swapping out the heater o2 sensors with the ones I bought from RockAuto. I'm just wondering if i should put those cat error eleminiating spacers just as an extra measure to permenantly get rid of this. A straight space probably wont fit because I check the distance and putting a o2 sensor socket in is tight and I have to use one of those offset sockets. So if i was to use the eliminating spacers, I would need to find something with a slight angle probably 45 degrees.
Does anyone know if a hole/leak in the rear muffler section can cause P0420? I am suspecting there may be a leak on the mufflers at the back.
It will not cause a P0420. The area that you want to be looking at is around the Y pipe where the manifold hooks up to. Search for any signs of soot leaking around the pipe and flanges. Also about 1 foot or so behind the rear 02 sensor.
If you can't find a leak anywhere, and you reset the code and it still triggers it. Then most likely its a bad cat converter. Once the Cat is really bad it will trigger faster the code within a few miles.
I tried to visually look and couldn't see any signs of any holes in the Y section, although it seems rather very difficult to spot because there are heatshields covering most of it and you cannot see between the heatshield and the pipes. The heatshields are in quite bad shape though rusting away. I might try and get hold of a cheap endoscope with LED to see if I can get a better look. I've still got the O2 sensors i purchased from RockAuto to install and see if that helps. If it turns out to be the Cat, is there any way to just bypass this error with spacers as i' thinking a cat replacement in terms of cost and labour is going to be very expensive.
I tried to visually look and couldn't see any signs of any holes in the Y section, although it seems rather very difficult to spot because there are heatshields covering most of it and you cannot see between the heatshield and the pipes. The heatshields are in quite bad shape though rusting away. I might try and get hold of a cheap endoscope with LED to see if I can get a better look. I've still got the O2 sensors i purchased from RockAuto to install and see if that helps. If it turns out to be the Cat, is there any way to just bypass this error with spacers as i' thinking a cat replacement in terms of cost and labour is going to be very expensive.
Well now reading through the whole thread I did comment that changing the rear 02 did work for awhile. Then it came back in full force. First it was intermittent then later it was getting triggered more constantly.
I did the water soap trick, reverse vacuum plug in the exhaust, removed the Y pipe shields to no avail. I got fed up with it coming on that I replaced it with a Walker AWD cat this past Friday. So far so good no cell I've put about 200 miles, and everything seems good again. Scanned for codes, and they are gone. Even the permanent P0420 pending code I couldn't get rid of.
What i did notice that my long term fuel trims were off on bank 1. I remember that when I first got my car I would log about -2 to -3 on both banks consistently. Meaning that they where about the same both banks. As time progressed I would see bank 1 would be about -7 then it eventually got to -11. Car still ran good for about another year. Till this time bank 1 was reading -14 long term fuel trim. Eventually P0420 started to pop up.
When I pulled the stock OEM manifold I held it up to the sun as it was a bright day. No light was shining through the honey comb at all. I did the same with the after market, and I could see daylight.
So it may of just clogged up eventually. I may of inadvertently killed the cat myself prematurely. By decarbing the car with seafoam a few times. Seeing how small the cells are on the stock cat. It wouldn't take much to get them clogged.
07-22-19, 02:17 PM
The o2 sensor spacers come in straight and angles too. I'm lookin at getting a straight one but it's like 53mm long of which about 40% of it is thread. Is there enough space to fit a straight spacer? or shall i go with angle one?
