Dreaded CEL on code P0430!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Dreaded CEL on code P0430!
CEL came on last night, scanned it today showed code P0430 catalytic converter below efficiency bank 2 (which side is that?). But how do I know its the primary cat attached to the exhaust header or the secondary after??
This was my worst fear, but I knew this could happen so a while ago I bought 2 preowned exhaust headers with attached cats L and R from Rancho Lexus Recycling. I hope they are good.
**Any advice on this?? How do I know the honeycomb hasnt broken inside the cat?
This was my worst fear, but I knew this could happen so a while ago I bought 2 preowned exhaust headers with attached cats L and R from Rancho Lexus Recycling. I hope they are good.
**Any advice on this?? How do I know the honeycomb hasnt broken inside the cat?
#2
Super Moderator
Bank 2 is the driver side of the vehicle. Before condemning the cat, check for an exhaust leak, especially under the heat shield at the Y-pipe, as it is a far more common cause of this DTC on our cars than an actual failed cat.
The following users liked this post:
Ken167 (06-10-19)
Trending Topics
#8
Super Moderator
Check out this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...cel-p0430.html
Not a very good way to repair - he should have had the shop cut out and replace the bad parts of the pipe, but still a good thread for seeing where the perforation occurs.
Incidentally, the fact that your issue is sporadic is even more evidence of an exhaust leak rather than a bad cat. The leak bleeds hot gasses, so it takes longer than normal for the catalyst to heat up and start working. The OBD2 catalyst efficiency test runs just as the car warms up on a cold drive cycle, so it's kind of a crap-shoot whether the converter lights off by that time.
Not a very good way to repair - he should have had the shop cut out and replace the bad parts of the pipe, but still a good thread for seeing where the perforation occurs.
Incidentally, the fact that your issue is sporadic is even more evidence of an exhaust leak rather than a bad cat. The leak bleeds hot gasses, so it takes longer than normal for the catalyst to heat up and start working. The OBD2 catalyst efficiency test runs just as the car warms up on a cold drive cycle, so it's kind of a crap-shoot whether the converter lights off by that time.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Help with cel!!!
So if I clear the CEL how long do I need to drive before I can smog it???
#10
Super Moderator
If you clear the codes you need to wait until all of the readiness monitors to reset before you take for emissions inspection. Check the documentation that came with your scan tool to see how/if your tool displays them. If it doesn't have that ability, I'd wait at least 3 days (assuming that you drive the car every day) before attempting to smog test the car.
Did you bring the car to an exhaust shop to see if they can find and fix the leak?f
Did you bring the car to an exhaust shop to see if they can find and fix the leak?f
The following users liked this post:
Ken167 (07-05-19)
#11
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Readiness comes from completing drive cycles whereby the engine comes up to temperature, the vehicle is driven at say 3 steady states, 35 to 45 and maybe 55mph for 5 min or more. The evaporative system takes several pressure cycles to verify the fuel tank is sealed and the purge system works.
Here is Torque Pro after an ECU reset.
One drive took care of everything except the evap status.
Here is Torque Pro after an ECU reset.
One drive took care of everything except the evap status.
The following users liked this post:
Ken167 (07-05-19)
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
GREAT NEWS!!!!! I went to a grungy smog place today in Santa Ana and my car passed!!! CEL was off but I was sweating with stress that it may fail. And they never even opened the hood to see the air intake. I dodged a bullet on this one!!!
So how do I know though that it is an exhaust leak or a bad cat? I dont hear any rattling from the cat (busted honeycomb) and dont feel/hear any backpressure.
So how do I know though that it is an exhaust leak or a bad cat? I dont hear any rattling from the cat (busted honeycomb) and dont feel/hear any backpressure.
#14
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Can't say with 101% confidence but even in open loop limp mode these *typically won't* destroy a CAT like they did in the old days. So tapping to hear a rattle is unlikely. That is not to say the comb won't crack but they are designed to last well over 100,000 like -->> 200,ooo mi or so if not abused by say ignoring a CEL for no spark and being fed raw fuel.
That said you have to get under the car and listen while its idling. Sometimes plugging an exhasust outlet helps. If not heard, you run your hand over suspect areas like welds, seams, joints and feel for the poof of air and heat. Be careful though the cats cook at like 600°C so they are hot inside.
That said you have to get under the car and listen while its idling. Sometimes plugging an exhasust outlet helps. If not heard, you run your hand over suspect areas like welds, seams, joints and feel for the poof of air and heat. Be careful though the cats cook at like 600°C so they are hot inside.
The following users liked this post:
Ken167 (07-05-19)
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yes because emissions problems can cost $1000s. I work at a car dealer and Ive seen the service ROs for emissions/catalytic repairs/replacements. But for now Im not going to worry about it
Last edited by Ken167; 07-05-19 at 05:17 PM.