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Good morning fam... I just replaced the alternator on my 06 is250! But I still have the same problem I been had with the car needing to be jumped every time. The only change since the alternator swap is the right turn signal indicator isn’t flickering anymore. It stays on now when it shouldn’t be. If I turn on the headlights the right headlight doesn’t power on but the left in will. I’m really not trying to take it to the dealership but I don’t know what else to do. I don’t hids. The daytime running light on that side is dim but right rear light is on when it shouldn’t be is there a ecu I can be faulty. I posted some videos with pics to help. Thanks
And this is what I woke up to this morning after the alternator swap! PS the clicking noise is coming from the headlight relay. So I don’t know what would trigger this but I had to jump my car again. This IS is becoming too much now
I think I already said this on your first post but check your spark plugs and coils for any dirt and wear and tear.
Is your battery still good? Even if Autozone/O'Reilly says it is I'd still try a different battery (maybe a friend's battery) and see if that resolves some issue.
I think I already said this on your first post but check your spark plugs and coils for any dirt and wear and tear.
Is your battery still good? Even if Autozone/O'Reilly says it is I'd still try a different battery (maybe a friend's battery) and see if that resolves some issue.
Thanks maevelexi.... I did check the sparks and everything is fine. The infusible link looks to still be in order. There no breakage near the bolt that so ppl talked about.
Check your fuses. My fusible link blew and was giving me all sorts of weird issues.
Thank you.... physically it looks okay no breakage or blown parts... I may just change it because the dealership can’t help me either. I’m thinking about changing out that relay for the headlight which is in the same fuse box as the infusible link
A clicking relay is sign that it lacks sufficient current to power it on. This could be a bad ground or the power +12 from the stalk switch is bad (something along the way, may not be that switch).
1st; swap the relay.
2nd; examine the relay and socket and bypass the relay to verify everything downstream (lights) work! This tells you a lot. As it isolates the problem to be before the relay, after the relay or the relay.
If you don't have a 12v test lamp or hand held DMM, get one... It will pay for itself....
Once you figure which relay contacts power the relay, then you know which contacts are the relay and jumper the cars contact pin set and see if the lights work. 100s of videos on relay pinouts and testing.
A clicking relay is sign that it lacks sufficient current to power it on. This could be a bad ground or the power +12 from the stalk switch is bad (something along the way, may not be that switch).
1st; swap the relay.
2nd; examine the relay and socket and bypass the relay to verify everything downstream (lights) work! This tells you a lot. As it isolates the problem to be before the relay, after the relay or the relay.
If you don't have a 12v test lamp or hand held DMM, get one... It will pay for itself....
Once you figure which relay contacts power the relay, then you know which contacts are the relay and jumper the cars contact pin set and see if the lights work. 100s of videos on relay pinouts and testing.
You’re so right! That’s i bought the power probe 3!!! I tried to pull the relay out and this happened.... kinda afraid to take a screwdriver to it to pry it off 😂
You’re so right! That’s i bought the power probe 3!!! I tried to pull the relay out and this happened.... kinda afraid to take a screwdriver to it to pry it off 😂
Ruuuh rooh.... that ain't right. Carefully remove the relay knowing it may have burned contacts/conductors underneath.
So if you didn't have first hand knowledge of the pinouts, now you do and you can see how it is powered and enables the lights to turn on.
No blown fuses?
Back to alternator:
Is the charge indicator off or on when running?
Ruuuh rooh.... that ain't right. Carefully remove the relay knowing it may have burned contacts/conductors underneath.
So if you didn't have first hand knowledge of the pinouts, now you do and you can see how it is powered and enables the lights to turn on.
No blown fuses?
Back to alternator:
Is the charge indicator off or on when running?
It was on when I had the old alternator hooked up.... but not since I changed it.. the right turn signal would always flicker with the old alternator and now it just stays on now but the car battery still drains
Was the old relay stuck on? Contacts welded together?
Can you take a close up picture?
I am curious how you know it's the relay. Thanks.
Sorry... I already threw it out bro. And today was my trash pick up but I jumped the car and literally hooked up my power probe and tested every fuse. The headlight fuses in the fuse box on the driver side was grounded so I figured they would been blown but they wasn’t when I pulled them out. So I started to test the relays in the fuse box with the infusible link. Every fuse and relay was giving me 12.5v except for the headlight relay which was jumping between a 0 and 0.7 reading. So when I put the probe tip to it a clicked the power side the driver side headlight came one and the passenger side tail light came on. So I believe the relay was fried and was distributing the power of daytime running light on the passenger side to the same side tail light
08-26-19, 05:37 AM
My IS suck and I can find the problem 😵🔫
