Speedin

I have not been able to find my exact problem from any other thread. Here is exactly what happens. First what works: unlocking vehicle using key fob and keyless entry system (exterior capacitive door handles) always works everytime. Starting vehicle and vehicle locking/unlocking when shifting into and out of park always works everytime. What does not always working is locking vehicle using keyless entry button on exterior door handles. Sometimes requires pressing button more than 5 times and even then it may not lock vehicle. This affects all locks simultaneously and not just one door lock. Mostly this problem seems to be with the driver's door exterior lock button. The passenger's exterior door lock button usually works after the driver's has not. Locking works from key fob when pressed except for a couple of instances where key fob would not lock vehicle until it was pressed a couple of times. Battery is new in key fob. Let me know what you think.

Speedin

I have not been able to fix it. I replaced the key battery, the L/F door jam switch, the L/F outer door handle, and the L/F door oscillator. The R/F door handle button works every time, but for some reason the L/F wont. It affects locking all locks, not just the driver’s door lock. I have found so many threads with people claiming door lock actuators for similar problems but all the door locks either work or dont together so it isnt that. I also dont believe it to be the modules that control the keyless entry as all door locks either work or dont together. I know this is an older thread but how many other components could it be? Also seems to occur more after driving a short trip. Sometimes it doesnt though. Does anyone on this forum have any information because its been 3 years.

NeoG

I saw 2013Fsport post in another thread an interesting troubleshooting method for door issues - Grab the umbilical and move it around a bunch and see if it affects the outcome, it might be bad wiring or pin corrosion

Speedin

Thank you for your reply. Thats a not a bad idea. I may try that. It doesnt explain how if I wait maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute why my driver’s door will work flawlessly on occasion. Unless the wires are in perfect alignment without any movement on them of any kind.

Speedin

Also because it may be important, here is the wiring diagram for the L/F door portion of the circuit:

Speedin

Update: I have replaced in total the L/F door handle, key oscillator (antenna), door jam switch, and door key wiring harness. Vehicle is behaving exactly the same still. Only other wire to replace is L/F main door harness. After that, its all car side stuff. Any input from anyone?

Speedin

I am no longer going to update this thread after this post. I tested all of the wires for the door portion of the smart access system leading up to the connection into the main body of the vehicle. All wires have good continuity even when aggressively wiggling them. As I really dont feel like taking apart the rest of the car to continue diagnosing the smart access circuit, and dont have access to Techstream which is what I really need, I am stopping here. It seems I am the only person to ever have this exact problem on this model of vehicle, and thats a shame for the other people that I know probably have my exact issue. To anyone who may have this problem, good luck. You will not find an answer here. If your problem is what I have been experiencing, dont bother replacing parts, it wont help. For what its worth, the system still functions, just not perfectly when locking sometimes only from the driver’s door handle. Its manageable and that is that.

NeoG

Getting access to TechStream is pretty easy, I set myself up without any mechanic or dealer access. I can send you a windows 7 32-bit VirtualBox VHD with it installed and working. You will need to get your own adapter which is somewhere between 30-100. I got a VCX Nano for Toyota from VCXDiagShop. It was 89 when I bought but the price has gone up to 95.

MrHarris

iTrader: (1)

can’t hurt to get some electronics contact cleaner spray, go underneath your steering wheel and just spray into the small fuse box you see when you shine a flashlight upward.


Not related but I did spray some connectors in a 1995 Camry that wouldn’t change the air conditioning air exhaust vent locations when turning the dial but I jus sprayed behind the dash from underneath the steering wheel and they worked after that. Same with random issues spraying a fuse box.


you might want to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, but it may be ok without doing so. Good luck