PAVGR

iTrader: (2)

So how much do you want for these?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

If it were mine, I would cut the flange off and stretch a pipe over what should be the collector and snake that south as far possible and then put the flange on it some 16 to 20" downstream.


While we are hacking.....
Any thoughts on this?
Modified Headers -> HFC -> Y-pipe -> mufflers (where our resonator is now) -> dual pipes (slighly smaller than cat/y-pipe/muffler side) past the axle in to the tips to exit.

It worked well on V8's and never droned like these current setups do. I might just have to give it a shot.

PAVGR

iTrader: (2)

I lost you sorry.What exactly do you mean you would do with these headers.I can't understand some words sorry.Can you explain?

Ultra4

Modifying the Megans isn't in the cards for me due to the fact that I'm quite happy with the ability to pull the heads with the headers on from the top, while leaving the "test pipe" (soon to be HFC) bolted to the midpipes. If I was starting from scratch, instead of doing things as cheap as possible over as long of a period of time as possible (not intentionally so, I'll add), then I'd go PPEs to a '14+ style setup--or if I'm honest, the cheapest chinesium knockoffs that mimic that flow--and quadruple up on the fiberglass wrap. That's why I hi-temp'd the Megans when I got them, I was originally going to wrap them and a co-worker of mine at the time was going to vacuum-bag some kevlar and basalt cloth heat shields to clamp around them and the cats (he had a buncha leftovers from a big aviation side project)...but the cats never materialized until much later, and the ones I got need a welder, which I am not.

The OEM exhaust manifolds/cats into the godsnow catback was actually tolerable while driving when I had the Cherry Bomb resonated oval tips clamped on, but wowee did you sound 2fast2furious at startup. My biggest gripe about the chinesium exhaust is more that our road is semi-improved, so where the OEM mufflers fill up the underpanel nicely, there's mostly open space around the round mufflers, so one wet trip up the hill, and you're a good 30lbs heavier in mud. That's a pain to clean, either from the car or from the garage floor.

Wrapped Megan headers into HFCs into godsnow catback (so,<$300 catless header-back) would probably be everything everyone hates about the 350Z sound. Keep the OEM axleback on that setup, and I think both I and my wife will be happy with the sound. At least, that's what I'm doing, anyway.

Ultra4

This is the first week or two after we moved to CO, I was both inventorying all the junk that made the move with me and playing with the DSLR camera and diopter lens adapter my buddy just gave me...the fact that it's of what we're talking about here is purely coincidental, but here you get to see the cheapest 2IS stainless exhaust you can buy, all bolted together. I got the Megans for $150, and I believe the catback was $180. $50 for the Cherry Bomb tips, still haven't found a pic of them that isn't trash.

Edit: I have dozens of terribad pics of all the welds, too. The welds are great. The pics are a mess.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Repeating myself.... cheap parts (and sometimes expensive ones) use minimal materials to make SS so I would never wrap a header even if it gained 4hp as it will likely rust out.

Above I mentioned a new plan that reverts to old school location for component placement to reduce the drone. It would be a custom exhaust and cost less than normal except the Y-pipe. The beauty of it is placing the mufflers where the resonator is takes care of the drone.

Extending the collector will help it pull better (assuming cheap clones are used). Cut the flange off and stretch 2.5" pipe over the current collector. Run that down 16 to 20" to HFC.

Modified Headers ->
>HFC ->
>Y-pipe ->
>Dual Mufflers (where our resonator is now) ->
>Dual pipes (slighly smaller than cat/y-pipe/muffler side) axle back ->
>Tips of choice....

No drone and it doesn't break the bank.

Ultra4

Why I scotch-brited and hi-temp'd them. Don't allow oxygen to the metal, and it won't oxidize, regardless of how wet or dry conditions are. I wrap everywhere I possibly can as a means of improving thermal performance, even on my lawnmowers and quad. I've yet to run into anything but discoloration on 304 or 409 (ferrous metals, I've started ceramic coating) It also can make a crappy exhaust sound not entirely terrible by reducing the resonant losses via mass loading. Some Cummins guys will weld umpteen pounds of angle stock to their pipes to mass load them and reduce drone.

If I'm understanding your layout, your idea essentially leaves the Megan 2.5" test pipe in place, and moves the HFCs farther downstream into the Y. Where you lose me is if the Y splits again (so, X-pipe) before the dual mufflers in the resonator area. Which is just a '14+ folded to fit our stock layout, with a straight pipe axle-back.

Edit: I lied, test pipe is 60mm ID, so 2.36".
Edit2: in the pic above, you can see how the unpainted Berk HFCs held up to 3-layers of wrap for ~2.5 years of use in N. Palm Beach County's daily thunderstorms.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

^^
Meant x-pipe. Perhaps the Borla 2.5 muffler may allow smaller mufflers down stream but I don't think this is the best performance option but may work well to lower the sound level.

https://www.borla.com/products/proxs...t__400493.html

Ultra4

Gotcha. I suspect that you and I are on roughly the same page 85% of the time. Always a different paragraph, but close to each other on the page. What you're describing is almost exactly what I'm wanting to end up on our '76 Wagoneer...the Grandma Wag's got some problems, but she's practically a museum piece from the bicentennial (I Brakleen'd a factory chalk mark when we first got it and can ruin a day just by remembering that...).

Back onto the topic of in-car drone in general, though, both my 2-stroke and speaker building backgrounds are telling me that most everyone's "in-car drone" is the result of the exhaust system itself resonating from being made of a thinner, more lossy material, or from an almost immeasurable leak at a joint. Aftermarket exhausts tend to weigh about half the OEM provisions, so wrapping them tightly with a temperature-resistant acoustically dense material like fiberglass (the #1 ideal acoustic stuffing material) to bring the resonant frequency back down to something closer to the OEM system's, is pretty much the only weight-conscious way I know of actually addressing drone, regardless of how it's plumbed.

Aside from lining the interior with a perfect Mass Loaded Vinyl cocoon isolated from the vehicle by closed cell foam, anyway. But that's ignoring weight for supreme quiet, though...

IS250DIYER

If you are looking for something cheep, they do work fairly well im my own opinion. I did need to drill out 2 holes a little bit bigger on the ends of both the headders. I didnt like how short they are but for $100+? Ive had them on for almost 2 years and no issues or rusting yet. I wish i would of got wrap on then b4 i put them in.