Starting vehicle after 3 years
11-05-19, 02:28 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: ca
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Starting vehicle after 3 years
Hello guys, posted a while back on 3is but figured I might have better luck here, as it's the same engine as 3is.
I have a 2014 is 350, no mechanical problems, sat for 3 years, has 35k miles.
I need to revive the car. Looking for proper steps in getting this done without any damages...
I have a general idea, but need more detailed specifics any help is great really.
-pump out old has and replace with new,( cannot drain the gas right?)
-drain engine oil, and replace with new.
-replace battery
I'm told all other fluids should be fine? If not please comment.
After the above procedures, I'd like some help on the initiation of starting the vehicle. Research tells me I need to lube the cylinders, pull the fuel pump fuse, and manually crank it? Do I need to change spark plugs too?
Complete noob btw, any help is appreciated, thanks
I have a 2014 is 350, no mechanical problems, sat for 3 years, has 35k miles.
I need to revive the car. Looking for proper steps in getting this done without any damages...
I have a general idea, but need more detailed specifics any help is great really.
-pump out old has and replace with new,( cannot drain the gas right?)
-drain engine oil, and replace with new.
-replace battery
I'm told all other fluids should be fine? If not please comment.
After the above procedures, I'd like some help on the initiation of starting the vehicle. Research tells me I need to lube the cylinders, pull the fuel pump fuse, and manually crank it? Do I need to change spark plugs too?
Complete noob btw, any help is appreciated, thanks
11-05-19, 02:58 AM
#2
So , I can’t help. But I am curious why it sat for three years?
11-05-19, 07:13 AM
#3
Intermediate
Resurrecting cars that've sat for umpteen years is one of my favorite pastimes...3 years is barely enough time for a battery to die. I'd say you'd be good with just a fresh battery and topping the tank off until you change the oil and filter--I've driven ~250mi on an engine that hadn't spun since the Nixon administration before changing the oil, although I'd definitely call that abusive.
If you absolutely must drain the tank to ease your mind, I'd do it from the engine bay, where the hard lines come up to the passenger cylinder head. Personally, I'd hotwire a 12vdc fuel pump to do the pumping, since the battery is right there.
If you absolutely must drain the tank to ease your mind, I'd do it from the engine bay, where the hard lines come up to the passenger cylinder head. Personally, I'd hotwire a 12vdc fuel pump to do the pumping, since the battery is right there.
11-05-19, 09:07 AM
#5
Couple guesses... OP is military and had nobody to take care of the car for him so it sat in storage. Or, a deceased relative bought it and garaged it for OP as a gift or something.
Anyways,
-Oil change
-Check brake fluid, coolant, windshield washer fluid
-Honestly, I'd drain the gas tank if you can. If you can imagine how much of a PITA it is to get some lawn equipment to start after a year of not being ran, maybe apply that logic here with gas that has a habit to separate. Usually people dump in some Sta-bil if they plan on storing gas for a while.
-Battery should only be checked. I imagine it's dead so charge it. If it holds a charge, then it's fine.
-If the car was sitting on its tires for 3 years, you're most likely going to be looking at buying 4 tires. (see here)
-Let the car idle for a while to get all the fluids moving and re-coating engine/tranny pieces. Test your brakes as well.
-Check lights
-Keep an eye out for oil leaks around the valve cover and what not over the next few months. Gaskets tend to dry up when they're sitting
Anyways,
-Oil change
-Check brake fluid, coolant, windshield washer fluid
-Honestly, I'd drain the gas tank if you can. If you can imagine how much of a PITA it is to get some lawn equipment to start after a year of not being ran, maybe apply that logic here with gas that has a habit to separate. Usually people dump in some Sta-bil if they plan on storing gas for a while.
-Battery should only be checked. I imagine it's dead so charge it. If it holds a charge, then it's fine.
-If the car was sitting on its tires for 3 years, you're most likely going to be looking at buying 4 tires. (see here)
-Let the car idle for a while to get all the fluids moving and re-coating engine/tranny pieces. Test your brakes as well.
-Check lights
-Keep an eye out for oil leaks around the valve cover and what not over the next few months. Gaskets tend to dry up when they're sitting
11-05-19, 11:24 AM
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: ca
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Resurrecting cars that've sat for umpteen years is one of my favorite pastimes...3 years is barely enough time for a battery to die. I'd say you'd be good with just a fresh battery and topping the tank off until you change the oil and filter--I've driven ~250mi on an engine that hadn't spun since the Nixon administration before changing the oil, although I'd definitely call that abusive.
If you absolutely must drain the tank to ease your mind, I'd do it from the engine bay, where the hard lines come up to the passenger cylinder head. Personally, I'd hotwire a 12vdc fuel pump to do the pumping, since the battery is right there.
If you absolutely must drain the tank to ease your mind, I'd do it from the engine bay, where the hard lines come up to the passenger cylinder head. Personally, I'd hotwire a 12vdc fuel pump to do the pumping, since the battery is right there.
Couple guesses... OP is military and had nobody to take care of the car for him so it sat in storage. Or, a deceased relative bought it and garaged it for OP as a gift or something.
Anyways,
-Oil change
-Check brake fluid, coolant, windshield washer fluid
-Honestly, I'd drain the gas tank if you can. If you can imagine how much of a PITA it is to get some lawn equipment to start after a year of not being ran, maybe apply that logic here with gas that has a habit to separate. Usually people dump in some Sta-bil if they plan on storing gas for a while.
-Battery should only be checked. I imagine it's dead so charge it. If it holds a charge, then it's fine.
-If the car was sitting on its tires for 3 years, you're most likely going to be looking at buying 4 tires. (see here)
-Let the car idle for a while to get all the fluids moving and re-coating engine/tranny pieces. Test your brakes as well.
-Check lights
-Keep an eye out for oil leaks around the valve cover and what not over the next few months. Gaskets tend to dry up when they're sitting
Anyways,
-Oil change
-Check brake fluid, coolant, windshield washer fluid
-Honestly, I'd drain the gas tank if you can. If you can imagine how much of a PITA it is to get some lawn equipment to start after a year of not being ran, maybe apply that logic here with gas that has a habit to separate. Usually people dump in some Sta-bil if they plan on storing gas for a while.
-Battery should only be checked. I imagine it's dead so charge it. If it holds a charge, then it's fine.
-If the car was sitting on its tires for 3 years, you're most likely going to be looking at buying 4 tires. (see here)
-Let the car idle for a while to get all the fluids moving and re-coating engine/tranny pieces. Test your brakes as well.
-Check lights
-Keep an eye out for oil leaks around the valve cover and what not over the next few months. Gaskets tend to dry up when they're sitting
11-06-19, 07:44 AM
#7
Intermediate
...I wouldn't even know how to drive the oil pump without spinning the crank...or using a pre-lube machine.
The fuel pump fuse would be in one of the black plastic boxes under the hood--I'ma say the outboard LHS, inboard LHS is the ECU--but I don't see any reason why you'd need to disable the lift pump unless you were pumping the tank out and unable to draw fuel through one of the under-hood lines...and even then, I'm fairly certain if you can't draw past the impeller with the fuse in, you won't be able to with it out. Now, hot-wiring the lift pump to do your tank drain? that might work. Mind the fumes, of course.
I honestly wouldn't worry too much about bad gas or oil, though. Yeah, dilute the gas with fresh stuff ASAP (100+RON, ideally), and get new oil in there when you can, but I wouldn't worry much beyond that. I understand wanting an overabundance of caution, but 3 years is not enough time to kill anything on our platform. Battery and interior aside. Heck, some of these cars go 3 years on the road without their owners doing any maintenance at all to them, and that's way worse.
The fuel pump fuse would be in one of the black plastic boxes under the hood--I'ma say the outboard LHS, inboard LHS is the ECU--but I don't see any reason why you'd need to disable the lift pump unless you were pumping the tank out and unable to draw fuel through one of the under-hood lines...and even then, I'm fairly certain if you can't draw past the impeller with the fuse in, you won't be able to with it out. Now, hot-wiring the lift pump to do your tank drain? that might work. Mind the fumes, of course.
I honestly wouldn't worry too much about bad gas or oil, though. Yeah, dilute the gas with fresh stuff ASAP (100+RON, ideally), and get new oil in there when you can, but I wouldn't worry much beyond that. I understand wanting an overabundance of caution, but 3 years is not enough time to kill anything on our platform. Battery and interior aside. Heck, some of these cars go 3 years on the road without their owners doing any maintenance at all to them, and that's way worse.
Trending Topics
11-06-19, 10:01 AM
#8
Pit Crew
OP wants to pull the fuse so that they can turn the engine over to lubricate everything without the engine actually starting
11-06-19, 10:02 PM
#9
Racer
If you intend to crank the engine to get the oil circulating, you might want to consider removing the spark plugs as this will allow the engine to crank over faster and not drain the battery as fast. You could also put a shot of oil in the cylinders to provide some instant lubrication to the cylinder. Use a thin oil, like 3 in 1 oil or auto trans oil.
11-06-19, 10:17 PM
#10
Racer
The fuse for the fuel pump is under the hood, the box next to the fender. It is a 25 amp fuse in position #18 with a label of F/PMP/
https://fuse-box.info/lexus/lexus-is...006-2013-fuses
https://fuse-box.info/lexus/lexus-is...006-2013-fuses
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Revived
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
5
05-16-16 04:26 PM
VCheriyan
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
10
06-12-12 07:56 PM