Petet

I’ve had a rotating noise that has progressively getting worse. Sounds like a bad bearing ,starts at about 40mph, but the noise doesn’t change when turning left or right. Other vehicles I’ve had the pitch would change. Is the another way to diagnose which bearing is bag?
sound seems to be coming from the front but it’s throughout the hole cab. I spun the front wheels and they felt smooth

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Did you check for any play on the wheel off the ground rocking it?

9, and 3 o'clock postion hands on. There should be minimal play.

Petet

I did not. I spun it listing for any odd sound , but didn’t check for play. At that time the noise wasn’t to bad. It has been getting progressively louder this week.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

We you did said "turning left or right", from with enough force to actually transfer weigh from one side of the car to the other? It is this weight transfer that loads up or unloads the bearings causing the noise to appear or disappear. I did this myself earlier this year to diagnosis a faulty driver's rear wheel bearing. I heard it best at lower speeds myself (10-20 mph).

Petet

Yes I’m putting a load on the bearing. It’s not like my truck with a lift. Lol. The noise is driving me crazy because it sounds like it’s in the middle.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

This is an abstract option but on a drive up beam style lift where you lock the beams under the suspension and lower the platform leaving the car in the air you could use a stethoscope and listen to the drivetrain with the aid of a helper in the cockpit. The downside is there is no load so it may not tell the whole story.

How much tread is left on your tires? Some performance tires get pretty loud once the tread evaporates!

I suppose another option for the front would be to spin the tire with a road force balancer and then listen. This too could hazardous to ones health. i.e. don't stop the tire with your head!

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

I'd suggest 12 and 6 to eliminate the R&P from turning and/or steering joints being a factor. Plus the load of the vehicles weight and subsequent wear into the bearing is vertical vs horizontal so you are more likely to notice movement if the outer race has wear.

bryceis250

im having a similar issue; when i listened to a you tube video the sound was replicated and i was sure it was the hub. but the pass was replaced a year ago and i just did the drivers side and the noise is still there, very loud. have you learned anything new?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

FWIW: In 2017 I picked up the 2IS with 50k mi on it; my first observation was the left front made a slight noise at speed. 2.5 years later and 35k mi traveled, the noise is unchanged. There is Zero detectable motion doing the 12/6 push / pull test and aggressive left right steering to induce loading makes no observable change in sound. That said I am leaving it until something changes.

Last little bit: I am the only one who notices this.

Petet

My noise started very mild about 15k ago. The last few weeks it has been getting louder. I originally thought it was tires so I bought 4 new rims and tires right when the noise started. No change. Gear oil changed about 20k ago.
today I checked end play, all 4 wheels tight.
jacked up the rear of car, shut off trac and let it get to 40 mph.
and I can hear it just like I’m driving on the road.
maybe change the fluid again ? Maybe a bad wheel bearing ?
hope it’s not the diff. I was able to record the sound only problem is I have to put my ear to the speaker to hear it.

Petet

Changed my gear oil today. Had about 15-20k on the oil. Light metal flake in it but looked normal. Noise is still there unchanged. My son sat in the back and thinks the noise is coming from the left side. He was sitting on the left. Car seat on the right so he couldn’t switch sides. I’m hoping to get it on a lift this weekend.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

FWIW diff's howl on decel and growl on accel. If they make noises like this, they make metal. Your noise is elsewhere. Verify the rear rotors are not cooking. Mine roll at 110°F after say no brake use, coasting to a stop from 60mph.

Petet

I’ll check it out. The noise is constant with speed not fuel pedal. Gear oil was a cheap diag step. $30 and 30 min. Can’t hurt.

Petet

I hate when people don’t post a fix or there issues they were asking about.
My noise was constantly getting louder, it was definitely on the left rear side, so I got a new moog bearing and abs sensor just in case it broke.
Once I got the wheel bearing out I could feel the notches in it. No play when together and pitch didn’t Change when turning. Caliper pins were also seized, so new caliper while it’s apart. I got lucky everything came apart easy, only took 2 hits with the slide hammer. The 2 back Allen bolts were a pain but doable.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^So after the new wheel bearing and guide pins in the caliper, are you all back to normal now?