JsFirstCar

Hello everyone,

I bought a 2006 is250 awd for my son. It started making a weird noise from the back. I put it on jack stands and 3 of the wheels drive and the rear driver side doesnt. It will spin by hand but it's not driving on its own.

Help!

JsFirstCar

Left rear axle I guess...

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

I'd first assume a broken half shaft; but it could possibly be a rear carrier (diff) issue to. Start by having that half shaft pulled; it's probably bad.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Is there really a drivetrain propulsion problem? These have an open rear differential and with a tiny amount of brake drag the axle may not spin at the same speed as the other side while hanging in the air. This is normal. Carefully slow the spinning side and watch the other side come up to speed... very typical of a non-LSD rear diff. In fact on some occasions one can see an open diff spin one side backwards.

I would check and make sure the calipers slide and they are not frozen in place. Floating calipers that don't float eat pads and overheat. On this chassis it is a common problem.

JsFirstCar

While on jack stands the lack of spinning in the driver side rear tire is accompanied by a VSC and 4wd error code.
It's not that it isnt spinning at the same rate. It is dead stopped while the other 3 wheels are spinning at idle speed maybe 10 mph.
The brakes are new in the back and there doesnt seem to be any drag at all. The caliper pins are lubed and sliding
I've removed the axle and I dont feel any play in it and can not get it to make any clunking sounds.

The initial clunking sound coming from the rear, that started the investigation, aren't there when the driver side rear isnt spinning. However the car probably has to be weighted for the noise to occur.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

But it doesn't have an error when all wheels are on the ground. Repeating myself but open differentials often times DO NOT free spin the wheels equally if at all when hanging in the air and what you're seeing is not a problem you will fix with anything but tossing an LSD in there.


What is your actual complaint? A clunk from forward to reverse? Its very likely the carrier moving in the rubber mounts. With it on the ground and trusted good driver at the wheel, power brake it in reverse while looking at the rear diff. Select drive and repeat while watching rear diff.

Also if the wheel not spinning really drives you nuts spin up by hand or slow the left one down by hand. They will stay synched for a while.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Last little bit. After driving for 30min or so pull over shoot an IR temperature gun at the rear rotors, calipers and hub.
I'll bet money the right side has a higher temperature induced by drag of either the drum brake or caliper. It doesn't take much.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Were just the brake pads replaced with new pads? Same old calipers? Before coming to the conclusion that my rear calipers were seized, I found out when I replaced my rear pads with new, the pads had just enough drag on the rotor to cause terminus smoke when breaking-in those pads. The calipers wouldn't release enough to remove the pads from touching the rotor surface. This was unknown with the old pads as they're well worn down; but with as much material there is on the new pads, this caused the problem.

I assume your problem occurred after the new pads were installed?

JsFirstCar

Thank you both for your replies. The problem is a clunking sound that increases with speed coming from the rear. I would say that it isnt uniform with the speed of the rotation of the tire though. The rotors and the pads, along with caliper pins were replaced. As the old caliper pins were indeed seized. I havent checked the temp one side to the other but when we drove to and tested it in a parking lot it was a cold night and there wasnt excessive heat to the hand when held to the wheel. When in the air on jack stands there isnt any dragging noise from the pads on either side. The clunking noise doesnt dissipate with brake use or non use of the brakes and pumping or feathering of the brakes doesnt seem to have any effect on the noise besides slowing the car some and thus slowing the rate of the clunking.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Try gently applying the E-brake when the noise is heard and listen for change.

You might want to pull the rotors and make sure none of the parking brake / drum brake components have come loose or lost a spring.

JsFirstCar

Ill put it back together and check that. At the moment I have the entire driver side rear apart and the axle out. There doesnt look like anything is missing from the E brake assembly. Thank you again for your help and input.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

I can almost guarantee you it is not the axle, wheel bearings, or the rear differential. When they pop, snap, make vibes, you will know it.

You have the same size tires all the way around? I ask as both ends need to travel the same distance.

What else can say to describe when this happens?

JsFirstCar

Yes same size tires. I'll get it back together and look again.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Try checking the driveshaft for excessive play as it enters the rear carrier/pinion. Has the rear carrier been check for adequate fluid and any excessive metal shavings?

JsFirstCar

Carrier = differential?